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if you're only running a 3 spd, or at least a tranny with a 1:1 final gear, 4.56 would probably be a good ratio. it depends on what kinda street driving you do. with 4.11s, you'll have a good HIGHWAY cruising RPM, but for in-town your gonna lack some go-power. i'd stick with the 4.56 if you're...

installing the manual hubs is a cakewalk. if you can remove the autos, you can install the manuals. and doing a driveway alignment isnt hard either. i just tape some 2x4's to the tires, take measurements, then adjust the TRE's so that the front is toed 1/4" inward. tracks strait as an arrow

Deaver superflex coils and bilstein 7100 series shocks. spendy and lots of bling. the superflex coils are real good though, nice and flexy. im running 14" travel rancho 5000s and extended arms, i've got PLENTY of flex

full spools rule. the problem with mini spools is their tendency to chunk up and also break the centering pin.

make sure to check the condition of the axle and make sure it has EVERYTHING. 350 for an entire d44 front setup isnt bad, but if the axle is beat to hell and needs to be completely gone through and re-done, i'd lowball the guy for 275-300

in terms of all of them, definitely the 60. its got a 9.75 inch ring gear, and its a full float. it will easily handle up to 38's in stock form, when upgraded to 35 spline shafts it will take 44's with minimal trouble. in terms of 1/2 ton stuff, definitely the 9". dropout 3rd member makes...

because the pencil pushers thought that the TTB would let the bronco perform like a truck and ride like a car. but as so often works out with theories on paper, neither happened. it rides like a truck and flexes like a car. this is why so many people, including me, have installed solid axles...

are you kidding? have you ever stopped to look at the front end of a 78/79 bronco or f-150?? :blink:

its easily doable. your absolute best bet is to get ahold of a donor truck, that way you'll have all the parts you didnt know you were gonna need and have less fuss. it might cost a bit more initially, but it will be cheaper in the long run.

sylvania silverstars. my 14 yr old bronco has as bright of headlights as my 3 yrd old superduty. the sylvanias actually project a truly white light, not yellow like so many bulbs do. and dont waste your money on the blue headlights, they are gay and and suck donkey balls

the coil can get wet and that shouldnt affect anything, normally its completely sealed. chek your dizzy cap to make sure its sealing right, and look for any water/condensation. the symptoms you are describing sound like a wet distributor. once its thoroughly dried out under the cap, seal the...

it should bolt up, most all ford t-cases had the same bolt pattern. whats going to be tricky is fabbing up brackets for the shift linkage, and you may have to tinker with your driveshaft lengths. i think the AOD and C6 are close to the same length, but not 100% sure. oh, and your t-case motor...

you can, but i wouldnt trust it. i modified the stock bracket and it held for a while, the when steering against a tree (tight trail, dont ask) it peeled right off. actually tore clean through 1/4 pot steel. on a bracket so crucial, dont skimp. i think the metal for that bracket cost me 25...

if you stay at around 2", you can get away with just longer springs and new alignment bushings. its not the BEST way to do it, but it will work. the best way to do it, though, is to buy a complete kit that covers the front and rear suspension. what you wanna look for in the front is: new...

having the tires' alignment out of spec will cause the front to sag a little, but not much. definitely get the alignment redone ( invest in lifetime alignments, they are worth the coin). adding a steering stabilizer isnt gonna do squat to help your alignment out though, they only dampen the...

well, actually its not QUITE as complicated as justbustin is saying, but it is labor and time intensive. my advice to you is, if you're converting to 4WD, dont even bother with the TTB. go right to using a solid axle, most likely a dana 44 high pinion unit out of a 78/79 bronco or f-150. but...

play in the front end can be attributed to lots of things. best bet is to start out at the simplest part possible, like lifting up one tire at a time and checking for playin the bearings. then check for play in your tierod ends. those are easy and cheap to replace. and FYI, you have a C6...

yup, quite a few drivers on FSB have installed them. its a good kit. everything comes pre-notched but un welded, so you can tweak the tubes as you see fit to have it fit just right in the truck. if you do one though, definitely tie it into the frame. i belive JSM84 on the board here has the...

on the TTB, i'd be inclined to suggest running duals. single will suffice, but the TTB front is so tempermental when it comes to road manners. all the really do is absorb alot of the road feedback transmitted back through the steering links into your steering wheel. same thing a shock does for...

go with the shallower (numerically lower) backspacing. to give you an idea of what that really is, thats how far the actual mounting pad of the wheel (where the lugs slide through) is from the inner lip of the rim. it kinda determines how far the tire actually sticks out