Cant get it to fire

[TX '73]

It sounds like you blew an inline fuse (lamp out and radio). I have in the past found a bad inline fuse going to the solenoid. I just cut the wire where the fuse is, attach an adaptor (lack of better term) on the end of the wire and terminate it back on the solenoid. Start it up. If it works, your inline fuse was bad and should be replaced. This is a quick test, granted not the best, but cheap/fast/easy. If it doesn't work, big deal replace the inline fuse wire. Just my two cents, but this is easier than jackin with distributors and ignition modules and could save considerable time/money.

Fellow Broncoers feel free to correct me if I'm wrong!!! Whatever it takes to get this pony back on the road....

 

[Yardape]

To test you simply stab a test light into the wire before the link and see if it lights up, then after the link and see if it lights up. If not, replace the wire.

 

[Cmprice]

It sounds like you blew an inline fuse (lamp out and radio). I have in the past found a bad inline fuse going to the solenoid. I just cut the wire where the fuse is, attach an adaptor (lack of better term) on the end of the wire and terminate it back on the solenoid. Start it up. If it works, your inline fuse was bad and should be replaced. This is a quick test, granted not the best, but cheap/fast/easy. If it doesn't work, big deal replace the inline fuse wire. Just my two cents, but this is easier than jackin with distributors and ignition modules and could save considerable time/money.
Fellow Broncoers feel free to correct me if I'm wrong!!! Whatever it takes to get this pony back on the road....

can you buy those fusible link things at autozone?

 

[TX '73]

ya, you shouldn't have a problem. Just give them a good description of what the issue is and what wire your replacing that needs an inline fuse built in. I think Yardape also has a good idea I just kindof get tired of messing with test lights. I always wind up having to make another trip to the store because the tester I have no longer works (but I buy cheap stuff like that). I don't have my rig in front of me to reference at the moment but I've actually had a wire break, remove the fuseable link portion and re terminated to the solenoid. It works for the short term but any line that has an inline fuse should stay that way (rule of thumb), so be prepared to replace!!!

 

[Cmprice]

ITS ALIVE well i got it started..it turns out it was indeed the ignition box....i turned the key and it instantly fired

 

[EvlFaust]

Sorry I just now read this post. I had the exact same problem a couple of years back. It seems that the ignition module (brain box) is very delicate and can burn out easily. If it happens again you can usually pick one up at AutoZone for less then $50.

 

[Cmprice]

Sorry I just now read this post. I had the exact same problem a couple of years back. It seems that the ignition module (brain box) is very delicate and can burn out easily. If it happens again you can usually pick one up at AutoZone for less then $50.

ya turns out now that my powersteering pump is locked up

 

[Johnny C.]

okay i have a 79 and i just finished installing the headers and pipes, and i started and it sounded awsome...well my dad decided for some reason to take the battery off when it was running....well it blew out my radio and lamp light (as far as i know maybe more), and now it wont get fire it turns over perfect but just wont fire...i replaced the voltage regulator, the solenoid, and the coil....still nothing
please help :blink:

Hey,

Does it have a pick up in the distributor? if so that may be your problem.

Check it out.

Johnny C.

 

[BLADE262US]

If the box poped when the battery was unhooked while running you should check your voltage while the engine is running , Take a voltmeter and hook it up to the battery while the engine is running you should see a little over 14 volts with it running if its higher then you should replace the voltage regulator it should not have spiked the voltage when the battery was removed . The plastic wire strain relief on the duraspark box is color coded for the engine it is meant for so theres an easy way to check and its a good idea to have a spare one with you I have had them die driving down the road before but it was also voltage regulator related . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Cmprice]

If the box poped when the battery was unhooked while running you should check your voltage while the engine is running , Take a voltmeter and hook it up to the battery while the engine is running you should see a little over 14 volts with it running if its higher then you should replace the voltage regulator it should not have spiked the voltage when the battery was removed . The plastic wire strain relief on the duraspark box is color coded for the engine it is meant for so theres an easy way to check and its a good idea to have a spare one with you I have had them die driving down the road before but it was also voltage regulator related . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

ive had this fixed for a long time now......but thanks for all the help

 

[bucknuts]

I had a very similar problem...turns out the Distributor I put in was not exactly the correct one. Unfortunately I had already changed every other part on the electrical system before we figured this out. Once I bought the CORRECT distributor it fired immediately.