What Did you Do With Your Bronco Today???

Skitter302

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I like the read color the Bronco has vs the original Green.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

That's it!?

I need a smog pump now.  But since new, no engine nor E4OD issues except for a DPFE, two O2 & TAD sensors; 4WABS module (jumpered it out); two muffler hangers; shocks (3 times); ball joints (twice); gas tank and leaf spring hangers.

It's been our best vehicle ever!

BTW, all because we maintain it according to Ford's Severe Duty Schedule  ++ +

 

Skitter302

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No photos for this update but I did get around to relocating the IAT sensor on the '91 from the SD position to the MAF position. Throttle response is a little crisper now. Makes me smile. Week before last I took the Bco in to our local drive line shop. They have done great work for my family in the past so I wasn't shy about letting them  on my vehicle. I know that the u-joints on the rear drive line were all shot so I had the fronts replaced too. (gotta do 1 might as well do them all). I also requested that the balance of both get checked. The front was perfect as expected, but the rear needed to be re-weighted. $450 later and it rides so smooth now. No more stupid vibration. Money well spent.

 
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Skitter302

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Put a g3 in the Centurion. Got the alt from a Pull-A-Part yard in Boise. $20 and it works.



 

Skitter302

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Did new Powerstop brake pads on the '91. Also took the rear drums off and drove them across town to have them look'd at. After only 2 oil changes worth of miles they were warped. had them re surfaced and now the vibration in the rear is gone.



 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Skitter,

Too bad about the Power...

I use Motorcraft brake parts since we purchased our 96 New. No issues except for me defunct dealer's decision to let their Dodge dealership install the rotors h7bs incorrevtly.

The Motorcraft parts are actually supplied by MAT Holdings,  parent to ther manufacturing entity, GRI Engineering for brake pads, shoes, shims, back plates, discs, calipers.

MAT Auto also "...supplies ride control products including shocks, struts, and suspension systems for the North American commercial vehicle market..."

"...MAT Auto Group maintains multiple technical centers of excellence around the globe to support product development with OEM customers such as General Motors, Ford, Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volkswagen, Nissan, TRW, Continental Teves, Bosch, WABCO, and Knorr-Bremse among others. In addition MAT Auto Group supplies high performance OEM products to auto racing companies AP Racing, Brembo, Hi Spec Motorsport, and Maxx Autosport..."

Read THE TRUTH ABOUT DEALERSHIP VS. AFTERMARKET PARTS By Andy J @ https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/cars-101/the-truth-about-dealership-vs-aftermarket-parts

I know that Ford and other auto manufacturers require different and more stringent specs than say, a national chain such as the zone.

 

Skitter302

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Yo Skitter,

Too bad about the Power...

I use Motorcraft brake parts since we purchased our 96 New.
The Powerstop Pads are great after the bed in process. The Drums were from O'reilly. I've never had a heat issue with my brakes so I don't know how they warped. Oh well all better now.

 

Skitter302

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Buying another one sounded good at the time.



1994 Custom Package

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Skitter,

Keyed?

Our 96, bought new was keyed on driver side too onky 3 months after we purchased it.

Some have no proper upbringing.

 

Skitter302

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Thankfully Not key'd. Old pinstripe job from the early 2000's.

 

Skitter302

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Thought I was going to start a new thread asking how to diagnose a bad fan clutch. The fan clutch in the Centurion was sticking in the on position. My MPG dropped al lil' and accelerating felt like a chore. So I went to O'reilly and got a replacement.  Only took me about 30min to pull the fan assembly and put the new on. Now I don't have any extra fan noise and accelerating feels normal.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo buddy,

For posterity:

Fan Clutch Test

 

Spin the fan. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:

Refer to Fan Clutch Specifications at the end of this section.

Minimum Fan Clutch Requirement Test — Cold

  1.  WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.


    Using a suitable marker, mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
  1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
  1. Install a throttle adjusting tool.
  1. Connect a Sun Strobe Light or equivalent. This can be an SLT-1 or SLT-2 Strobotach or an STA-1 Strobe Trigger adapter for the Sun Distributor Test Stand. A Digital Photoelectric Tachometer 055-00108 or equivalent may also be used for this test.
  1. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm until engine temperature has normalized.
  1. Adjust the engine to the testing speed in the Specificationsat the end of this section.
  1. Operate the strobe light at water pump test speed and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flashes and the water pump pulley marks are synchronized.
  1. Aim the timing light at the fan retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until it is synchronized with the marked fan retaining bolt (fan appears to stand still).
  1. The fan speed must not be greater than the specified fan test speed at water pump test speed.
  1. Turn the engine OFF.
  1. If the fan speed was greater than the specified fan test speed, check for proper parts usage.

    If the correct parts are used, replace the fan clutch (8A616).

    If the part(s) are not the correct ones, replace the part(s) and perform the test again.
  1. If the engaged fan clutch requirement test is going to be performed, do not remove the tachometer, strobe light or throttle adjusting tool.
  1. If a Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test is not going to be performed, remove the tachometer, strobe light and throttle adjusting tool.
Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement Test

  1.  WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE HOOD OPEN UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.


    If the disengaged fan clutch requirement test was not performed, follow Steps 1 through 5 under Minimum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test.
  1. Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200), this will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
  1. Place the air conditioning selector, if so equipped, in the maximum position and the blower switch in the high position.
  1. Adjust the strobe light to water pump test speed.
  1. Start the engine and adjust it until the water pump pulley is synchronized with the strobe light. This will be near the engine testing speed given in Specifications.
  1. Synchronize the timing light with the fan to fan clutch retaining bolt.
  1. The fan speed must meet or exceed the specified minimum fan blade test speed at water pump test speed.
  1. If the fan speed was less than the specified fan test speed, replace the fan clutch.
By Ford in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual @http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj33014.htm#extract_577

 

Skitter302

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Haven't posted in a bit since its hard to type with a wrench in one hand,  and grease on the fingers. I've noticed that computers don't care for that stuff too much.

A bit has happen'd and most of my activity has been posted to my instagram but I'd figure I post up here with some details.

I took some time off work and got the Centurion clean'd. Was a nice break from the norm and I had a good time attending the multiple car shows that happen in my town.  People would come up to me a ask how I built a four door Bronco in my backyard... Was exciting to show them the door sticker to show it was a conversion vehicle. Even many of the OBS guys that were at the Friday night cruise didn't know what I was driving. 



Shortly after show week I took a weekend where me and Dad went to Boise on a less then perfect road trip. The 460 Engine lost oil pressure twice on the way down and when I drained 9qts of oil it was full of brass color'd flakes. Some fresh oil and a bottle of Lucas got me home but its still not like it was. Also found out the my new windshield leaks and so do the "c" pillars :(   Gunna park it for the winter so I can pull the interior apart later.



So I'm a little bummed out about the water leaks and the engine troubles and A few Days later BAM I get a call from a Family member borrowing the '84 Crew Cab that its over heated 20min out of town. I arrive to find the truck still hot with a pool coolant and oil under the truck. Called AAA and had it tow'd home. After work the next day I took a closer look at the damage and its bad. Pass side head gasket is gone and alot of gaskets got melted. Engine runs cold but doesn't like warming up to operating temp. So now in less then a week I have 2 unrunable 460 Motors.



Time to roll out the parts Bronco and get it up to daily driver status. This Blue Bronco was something I bought and pulled the tailgate wiring out of to fix the Centurion. I just havn't got around to selling it. Trans fluid was more brown then what I like to see so I went and got some fresh fluid for the trans. Along with that I did an oil change, flushed the t-case, topped off the front and rear diffs, fixed the dash lights witha new head light switch, and fixed multiple odds and ends. I've got some new tires on order too.





 
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Skitter302

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Some of the hardest parts of Bronco ownership is when they have a Breakdown. I totally get that my Broncos have some years one them but man it sucks when it breaks on vacation.

Drove to Boise to see family and had no issues down and around town. Got up Sunday morning loaded the vehicle and my cousin noticed a few odd green drips. About a hour late it turned into a green puddle.



Followed the green trail and there it was. Green liquid dripping from the weep hole in the water pump.





After getting the pump installed I found that their was still a drip but I couldn't find where. Pulled the fan shroud back and found that the crimp on the tank was now dripping. Back to the parts store for a radiator.



Got it all back together now with no leaks. Can drive home in the morning.

 

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