What Did you Do With Your Bronco Today???

Skitter302

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Got some progress made.

Got the old injector connectors trimmed out of the factory wiring harness. I have no plans to go back to SD after working this hard to get MAF components installed. This also allowed me to wrap up wiring and clean it up so it looks better.



I also took the time to do some "maintenance items"

~ 8 clean remanufactured fuel injectors



~ new coolant temp sensor and sending unit

~ New air intake temp sensor

~ New valve cover gaskets

While I was putting the new gaskets on I found a few spots on each cover that was starting to rust so they got some paint. I didn't want to paint them black but I had 6 extra cans of black so I used what I had.



Still have some more parts to go on before I bolt the intake back together.

 

Skitter302

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Wow, I havn't posted an up-date in here since March! 0_0

guess that's what happens when I start working long days.

I got all the wiring button'd up and have been driving the Bronco, finding a glitch and fixing that issue and moving on.

Swapped out the old Push Start style TFI for the New CCD TFI.



Going from the gray to the Black module improved my throttle response greatly. Overall I'm very happy with the results with my MAF conversion. My only issue is how the PCM does the load calculations for 3rd. But I'm finding more and more that I might have a 3rd gear issue caused by the old Bronco computer.  Still liking the feelings of the shifts with the Banks transcommand. Feels like a shift kit.

 

Skitter302

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thinking vary seriously about getting this



do all c-350's have SAS?

 
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miesk5

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Skitter302

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I thought so After I started looking at all the C-350s on Youtube and Google.

Seller wants $4000 and it'll need another $500-$1000 once i get it home. Sounds like a good deal? or do I need to talk the seller down?

 

miesk5

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Yo M,

 Many owners have stated that the conversions lack some finesse, body putty that cracks, poor wiring where body/frame was split and section added, etc.

Here is a good rust-free Centurion "splice"  in 


Christopher's 1989 Four Door Bronco


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Postby BajaBronco13 » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:57 am

Here is a picture of the floor section showing the merge between the original Ford F350 front crew cab section and the rear grafted Bronco section:


http://www.SoloMotorsports.com
BajaBronco13 wrote, "


Christopher's 1989 Four Door Bronco


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  •  
Postby BajaBronco13 » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:51 am

From the information I've gathered from the members at FourDoorBronco.com Magnum and Centurion were only a few miles away from each other in the midwest. Centurion did have the longest run (over 15 years) with Magnum lasted less then 7 years. There is no solid numbers on how many four doors were built but people have guessed that Centurion produced about 5000 units with Magnum only producing 1500. I've been told that my Magnum has a rare combination of an F350 460 with a two wheel drive front end. Not that it's rare for an F350 but that it is rare for Magnum to have built off that platform." 
 
Advise a thorough inspection.

Here is my standard check list.  Of course I know you  know to do most of this;

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9 or 351W CID 5.8 4 BBL Carb, etc.).VIN Decoder; for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Truck @ http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=11

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc. Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for: - oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford- try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight- auto tranny - ●E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.For it and C6 or AOD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator). If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop.- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings ● Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds. - cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc. - cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com - radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace- body mount deterioration and frame rust-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.●Also in non-carbureted Broncos the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioningIf the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it. Same for:●E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL), it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Is it flashing while driving?●For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoeor have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.●For a 96 get a free code scan @ Parts Stores if you don't diy with a scanner.●For 93 through 96, Ask seller if the cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready to confirm. Use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073● 1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels. The RABS module monitor the electromechanical components of the systems. Malfunction of the system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle. ●The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version. Cash is King!!! "Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet. "by Froggmann @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...g-vehicle.htmlBanks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations.. Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).A summary of questions to ask the seller;"* Do you have the maintenance records?* Do you have the title in-hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?* How do I get the title?* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?* How much tread is left on the tires?* Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?* Did this car belong to a smoker?* Was this car used by pet owners?* Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?* Are there any document or preparation fees?"* Courtesy of ebay
.

There is one for sale @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/41-broncos-sale-75-posts-required-post/470130-1995-ford-centurion-c150-four-door-bronco-%245500-obo.html

1995 Ford Centurion C150 Four Door Bronco, $5500 OBO.


I have a 1995 Ford Centurion C150 Four Door Bronco for sale. I have put 1980-1986 quarter panels and a front clip on. Other than the 80s sheet metal, it is pretty much stock. It still has all of the 95 drive train, and 95 interior. If you don't know much about these trucks, they were not made by Ford, they were built by conversion companies from 1986-1996. Centurion was the company that made the most of them. There was around 5000 built over the 10 year span, and only a few made in 86. They would cut a truck body and a bronco body in half, and weld them together to build these. Mine is on an extended cab frame. These were luxury vehicles that you could custom order from a dealer, this one cost around $50,000 when it was new. 

Fourdoorbronco forums is a good Website to check out if you want more info about them. 

EDIT: Putting it up for sale again. I barely drive it, I think I've put 2000 miles on it since I bought it. I sold the trailer a while ago. Asking $5500 OBO. Willing to take any reasonable offer. I have lots of spare parts I will throw in too. I found another Fummins I am interested in buying, and would really like to sell this thing. 

 

Skitter302

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Can't see whats in the link

Skitter302, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

  1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
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miesk5

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Yo,

ok, you  need  7[SIZE=14.4px]5 posts to view [/SIZE]the classified section.

1995 Ford Centurion C150 Four Door Bronco, $3700. OBO.



I have a 1995 Ford Centurion C150 Four Door Bronco for sale. I have put 1980-1986 quarter panels and a front clip on. Other than the 80s sheet metal, it is pretty much stock. It still has all of the 95 drive train, and 95 interior. If you don't know much about these trucks, they were not made by Ford, they were built by conversion companies from 1986-1996. Centurion was the company that made the most of them. There was around 5000 built over the 10 year span, and only a few made in 86. They would cut a truck body and a bronco body in half, and weld them together to build these. Mine is on an extended cab frame. These were luxury vehicles that you could custom order from a dealer, this one cost around $50,000 when it was new.   I barely drive it, I think I've put 2000 miles on it since I bought it. I sold the trailer a while ago.  I have lots of spare parts I will throw in too. I found another Fummins I am interested in buying, and would really like to sell this thing. 
 

Skitter302

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Engine: 460

Mid-legnth exhaust headders, cat delete, dual exhaust w/ no cross over, and glass packs.

Transmission: E4OD

T-case: 1356

4:10 gears

Dana 60 Front Axle

Dana 70 Rear Axle  I wast told it was a Dana 70, its a sterling 10.25 Just had to crawl under and double check the axle tag.

 
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Skitter302

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Been cleaning some things up.



And took the time to swap out the ugly taillights with the old ones off my '91 Bronco

Old:



New:



 

miesk5

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o M,

Nice!

Cleaned headlight haze.  Then storms came  next up is to clean all weatherstripping then apply silicone to all except to sides that touch glass.

Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing. It also helps to retain alignment by reducing friction between the glass and the rubber weatherstrip. miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate lgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster.

"Take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides
 

 

Skitter302

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I've never used a Teflon lube in the window guides, my dad taught me to use graphite. Next on my list is the chrome and headlight haze. For now I spent the time getting 99% of the hard water stains off the paint.

Here is a Before:



And here is After:



Took it to a parking lot get-together and cruise. Only the guys who were older really knew the importance of the Centurion Badging, this is one vehicle that has to be explained to the younger generation (my generation). Met with a guy that had a Supercharged lightning and he really liked that it was in black. If I had a gray interior it would be tempting to have a custom made Nite stripe apply'd XD

 

Skitter302

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Spent most the day rewiring the aux circuit in the Centurion.

Found out that the CB was disconnected. Powered it up on the Bench and what do ya know... it wouldn't transmit. Replaced it with a https://midlandusa.com/product/mxt275-micromobile-two-way-radio/

rewired power going to the rocker switches, fixed the dome lights, removed all those stupid scotch locks and butt connectors barely holding wires together, fixed the wiring going to the brake switch, also installed a switch to turn off the brake lights (just for the fun of it.)

Before I started this wiring I had a issue that the Centurion was running hot, pulled the radiator and found that the fins were full of mud, flushed it inside and out, replaced the t-stat with a 180°F unit and refilled.

Finished up most the wiring and went for a drive, Now I have ~178° running around town and 182° at idle.

 

Skitter302

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Did some minor maintenance on the '91,



I need to learn a thing or to about cable management but It is definitely time for a yellow top.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Consider Dorman - Conduct-Tite Top and Side Post Anti Corrosion Washers  $2.00 @ most parts stores,



 

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