Vac and choke help please

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Seabronc

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Well after putting back together I realized I forgot two hoses but don't see them on the diagram
They are there but not completely shown.  You may or may not have a CWM (Cold Weather Modulator) but this is the arrangement.  The A/CL DV is the thing on the end of the snorkel where the air intake hose connects to the snorkel.  The tube under the end of the snorkel should go to a heat manifold on the exhaust manifold. The A/CL Bi Met is usually on the bottom of the air cleaner.  The Vrest is looks like a plastic connecter but what it actually is a device to reduce the size of the vacuum line to slow down reaction to vacuum changes.

The choke should just slightly open when in the closed position.  You adjust it by guess and by golly 0:) , Start with the 0 position and rotate it left or right to get the desired opening, about a 1/8th inch when the choke is in the closed position.

There should be an adjustment procedure on the vacuum diagram. 

I think you have your idle screws out too far, (all the way in to just closed, don't tighten hard or you will destroy the end of the ****** the back out 2 1/2 turns for initial setting.

Watch some of these videos, the carbs shown may not be the same as yours, but you will a good idea of how it is done https://www.google.com/#q=ford+2150+carb+adjustments

:)>-

Vacuum Calibration 010a.jpg

 
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Jneeld

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What does the AIR BPV look like I thought it was the deal on the end of the snorkel.

 
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Jneeld

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Here are more pictures. I had one of the lines off the TVS going to the deal on the end of the snorkel.

IMG_1344.JPG

IMG_1345.JPG

IMG_1346.JPG

 

Seabronc

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What does the AIR BPV look like I thought it was the deal on the end of the snorkel.
It is the thing on the end of the snorkel, the white thing on the side is the CWM, and the thing on the bottom of the A/CL BI MET.

The diagram of your vacuum system doesn't show them all thAt is why I included the small picture of the entire hookup.

:)>-

Update: Looking at the pictures, the A/CL BiMet is on the top of your air cleaner cover

 
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Jneeld

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Ok so another problem. I can't keep it running. It will start and run good while the choke is closed as soon as the choke starts to open it dies. If I hold the choke plate closed it will stay running. Even if I give it some throttle it will stay running but is bogged down. What will cause that?

 
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It is the thing on the end of the snorkel, the white thing on the side is the CWM, and the thing on the bottom of the A/CL BI MET.

The diagram of your vacuum system doesn't show them all thAt is why I included the small picture of the entire hookup.

:)>-

Update: Looking at the pictures, the A/CL BiMet is on the top of your air cleaner cover
Thanks

 
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Also the white thing on the side is labeled TVS.

 

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Ok so another problem. I can't keep it running. It will start and run good while the choke is closed as soon as the choke starts to open it dies. If I hold the choke plate closed it will stay running. Even if I give it some throttle it will stay running but is bogged down. What will cause that?
Not enough gas,  running too lean. This could be caused by internal problems in the carb. Did you install a rebuild kit?   I suggest that you either take the carb to a shop or purchase a re-manufactured carb.  A carb kit does not correct any problems related to wear of components, a re-manufactured carb is brought to factory specifications.  Did you watch any of the videos I suggested?

A TVS and a CWM do the same thing.

:)>-

UPDATE:

Here is another link that will help you understand carbs http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

 
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Jneeld

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I hooked a vacuum gauge to it while it was running and was getting a vacuum of 15-17.

 
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Jneeld

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Not enough gas, running too lean. This could be caused by internal problems in the carb. Did you install a rebuild kit? I suggest that you either take the carb to a shop or purchase a re-manufactured carb. A carb kit does not correct any problems related to wear of components, a re-manufactured carb is brought to factory specifications. Did you watch any of the videos I suggested?

A TVS and a CWM do the same thing.

:)>-

UPDATE:

Here is another link that will help you understand carbs http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
Yes I have watched those videos. I did rebuild the carb but it was before I knew what I was doing and I didn't blow through all the passages in it.

 
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Jneeld

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I'll try taking it apart and blowing carb cleaner through it all.

 

Seabronc

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Yes I have watched those videos. I did rebuild the carb but it was before I knew what I was doing and I didn't blow through all the passages in it.
All I can say is that it could be several different possible problems with the carb.  The rebuild kit should have come with a set of instructions.  It could be your throttle plate setting, transition ports, jets, idle jets, cold idle adjustment, etc.  A professional auto parts store sells cleaner that comes in a 1 gallon bucket that the old carb should have been soaked in and then air blown out.  Then reassembled according to the instructions including initial settings for the throttle plates and choke.  If all that is done, the carb should run and only need tweaking to get the engine running at peak performance.  So, you either have a clog or miss-adjustment. 

I suggest redoing the rebuild yourself, take it to a shop, or purchase a re-manufactured carb.

If I were there, I could take a crack at going over the carb, but I'm not and can't guess what the problem is.  It is always good to build a relationship with a local shop or mechanic that you can trust.  They are a great source when you have a hard one like this.  I have that arrangement with a shop and always take the tough ones to them, especially if something is over my head, dangerous to do without a lift,or just don't have or am not willing to buy the correct tool.

:)>-

 
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Jneeld

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Hey I appreciate all your help in going through all this. I took it all back apart and started over and blew carb cleaner through every hole I could find. I assembled it and blew carb cleaner all over it as I was assembling it back. Put it back on with 2 turns in the idle mixture screws and BAMM runs like a champ now. It's awesome. I'm gonna hook up the vac gauge and fine tune the idle mixture screws. On the TVS which it has a large and a small port which is which?

 

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The larger center on goes to the A/CL Diverter, small top one goes to the vrest from there to the A/CL Bimet and from there to Main Vac.  I'm not sure you have a vrest to put in there, it should look like a coupler with a small hole all the way through that is quite a bit smaller than the vacuum line internal size.   If not, temporarily hook it up and get one from a truck in a junk yard. They are usually blue but not always.  It slows down the reaction to vacuum changes. 

Good luck,

:)>-

The CWM or TVS will shut off vac to the Diverter when the intake temperature is up so that you get only cold air, ie. in the summer, the Bimet will adjust the amount of vacuum to the Diverter so it will be taking in mostly air heated from the manifold when the engine is cold and as the intake air warms it will reduce the vacuum to the Diverter and mix in more air from the snorkel external air intakel.  Works sort of like a thermostat for the intake air.

Vacuum Calibration 010a.jpg

 
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The larger center on goes to the A/CL Diverter, small top one goes to the vrest from there to the A/CL Bimet and from there to Main Vac.  I'm not sure you have a vrest to put in there, it should look like a coupler with a small hole all the way through that is quite a bit smaller than the vacuum line internal size.   If not, temporarily hook it up and get one from a truck in a junk yard. They are usually blue but not always.  It slows down the reaction to vacuum changes. 

Good luck,

:)>-

The CWM or TVS will shut off vac to the Diverter when the intake temperature is up so that you get only cold air, ie. in the summer, the Bimet will adjust the amount of vacuum to the Diverter so it will be taking in mostly air heated from the manifold when the engine is cold and as the intake air warms it will reduce the vacuum to the Diverter and mix in more air from the snorkel external air intakel.  Works sort of like a thermostat for the intake air.
What does the A/C DIV look like. I don't think I've seen that.

 
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Jneeld

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Does this just "T" into the lines running into the TVS right now?

I have the TVS hooked in just like my diagram shows right now. The diagram you have shows that stuff going from the to the A/C BI MET.

IMG_1311.JPG

 

Seabronc

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Does this just "T" into the lines running into the TVS right now?

I have the TVS hooked in just like my diagram shows right now. The diagram you have shows that stuff going from the to the A/C BI MET.
NO, just hook it up the way your diagram shows.  Apparently your year truck used different devices in that run.  The blue thing in your hand is a VRDV (blue side is shown as black in the diagram.  Forget the TVS for the air intake control, the A/CL Bimet will  do all control for control of the A/CL DV (the thing on top of the end of the snorkel. I was thinking of the way my truck has it hooked up.  Apparently your truck uses the TVS in the Air injection system as shown on your diagram. Sorry about the confusion.

:)>-

 
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Jneeld

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NO, just hook it up the way your diagram shows. Apparently your year truck used different devices in that run. The blue thing in your hand is a VRDV (blue side is shown as black in the diagram. Forget the TVS for the air intake control, the A/CL Bimet will do all control for control of the A/CL DV (the thing on top of the end of the snorkel. I was thinking of the way my truck has it hooked up. Apparently your truck uses the TVS in the Air injection system as shown on your diagram. Sorry about the confusion.

:)>-
Ok so I'm confused again. The thing on the end of the snorkel is it the AIR BPV or the AIR DV. My diagram shows both of them

 

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Ok so I'm confused again. The thing on the end of the snorkel is it the AIR BPV or the AIR DV. My diagram shows both of them
NO, the thing on the end of the snorkel is not the Air BPV !!!! It is the Air DV.  Your diagram distinctly shows the hookup of the Intake air system that feeds the air to the carb..  

The Air BPV has nothing to do with air to the carb.  The Air BPV is part of the pollution controls, it controls air injection to the catalytic converter (If you have one) and also directly into the rear of the cylinder heads.  It is possible some previous owner has removed that hardware from your truck and looks similar to the following picture which may be more complex than what was/is on your truck.

:)>-

Shown in the picture On far right, Air Pump, hose to large device (Air BPV), Hose from Air BPV to back of engine crossover pipe connection (injects air directly into heads at certain times), under Air BPV connection to Catalytic converter via a steel pipe.

100_3743.jpg

 
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