Total EFI Swap

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BucknO

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Ok I know that this topic has been beat to death. But I have an extra variable in the equation. I have a 90 Bronco with 5.8 EFI, E40D, Manual 1356. I'm looking to do a carb, C6, 203/205 Doubler, and 1 Ton Axles. I want to get rid of the EFI totally.! Taking the transmission out of the equation how much work will it be to isolate the computer remove it and start over again. I am aware of the small things necessary. Like manual fuel pump and the other small stuff, but I can get it done cheaper with the carb than replacing the EFI intake, Exh Manifolds, and Throttle Body, ...etc... And I'm in no hurry, got at least a year before I have to move it. So let me know if you guys have any suggestions. And If anyone would like my EFI system let me know.

 

gatorbronco

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If you're going from an E40D (which is computer controlled) to a C6 (which is not) it's as simple as disconnecting the computer. On my 90, the computer kind of plugs into the firewall on the driver side. All you have to do is unplug it. If you're fairly decent with wiring you can easily isolate the ignition and all other essential wires. Then, remove the extra ones. It's kind of a rats nest but looks much better if you go through the work of only having necessary wiring. To make your life easier, identify the wires you want to keep (ignition, starter, alt. etc, etc) BEFORE you start on your project. That way it will be very easy to wire your truck when the new engine is in. Should be simple enough with a decent Volt meter.

Since you'll be running a carb as well, you won't have anything on your ride that is computer controlled. When I did this project, it took me about a complete summer with just a buddy and me working on it. The way I did it was to find an old junk Bronco with a c6. I pulled out that c6, rebuilt it and used all of the hardware to switch over to my 90 Bronco. The only thing missing was the kickdown rod which connects to your carb...important for downshifting.

 
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BucknO

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I went through my Haynes manual and located all my unnecessary components. And I'll be doing what you suggested, ( keeping only necessary wires). I have also thought about a custom dash with aftermarket gauges only but haven't decided on that yet. I'm pretty sure that I have an old 2WD C6 mated to a 302. All I need is the tail shaft and the 4WD adapter to the 205.

 

shift1313

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i know of people who have gone from efi to carb and kept the fuel pump. you need to have a pressure regulator that takes it down to 6-8psi or so and bleeds the rest of that pressure back to the return. i think the regulators are cheap from holley, but a mechanical bump should be fairly cheap as well.

 
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BucknO

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Ok well i did it. I went in and removed ALL the wiring. With the exception of the basic wires needed. I am going to an all aftermarket Gauge setup and a custom dash. I am going to sell all my EFI related parts for fairly cheap as soon as I get them cleaned up: Upper and Lower Intake, Throttle Body, E40D with factory harness, and 1356 Manual shift. If anyone is interested.

 

Yardape

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Shift, could you find Moe info on what you stated here, I've been researching this for months and everything I came back to told me the factory pumps and lines will not work. True you can regulate the pressure but the factory lines and pumps will not supply the volume. If you know otherwise I would greatly appreciate hearing about it. Would save me a ton of work.

 

gatorbronco

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Yardape, I might have to agree with you on that one. When I first did the swap I used all of the stock lines with a regulator. The truck would run fine until it would warm up a little bit, and then it would only run at highway speeds. Whenever I slowed down the engine would cut out and die...I'd have to let it cool down before it would start up again. I can't exactly say for sure it was because of the stock lines or a faulty regulator, but I ended up just dropping the tank and doing it right. I ran all new lines to the carb with a new fuel pump and haven't had any problems since.

 

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