89 EFI to Carb

[89bronco89!]

Now before everyone scalps me about this I am wanting to do the switch. I know it might be dumb for power and such but it’s what I want. lol. Can some let me know about any major things or has a step by step? Thanks

 

[Tiha]

This is in the 78-79 section. which would not have been EFI.

what are you working on?

 

[miesk5]

Yo 89bronco89!,
Welcome to our Bronco site!

EFI to Carb:​

"It's actually a pretty simple swap. Basically all of the computer/sensor stuff can be scrapped. You won't need any of it. What you will need...a carb (obviously), a new intake manifold, a new distributor, an ignition control box (like an MSD or Mallory box...I've had good luck with MSD 6A boxes so long as they're not exposed to significant heat), and a carb fuel pump. The EFI pump is way too strong for a carb so you'll need something like a Holley carb electric pump. The ignition stuff is pretty straight forward, but for a working tach you'll need to find the tach wire in the ignition wiring harness and attach it to the positive side of your coil. I know in Mustangs this wire was green with a yellow tracer. It may be the same in your Bronco, but it's good to double check. For a carb I would use something like a Holley 600cfm double pumper or a slightly smaller Carter carb. I had a 625cfm Carter on my Mustang before I switched over to a turbo'ed EFI setup and it was a little too much for the motor. One point worth stating is that if you have an automatic transmission that has overdrive (like an AOD), you'll need an adapter for the TV linkage on the transmission since AODs never came on carbed motors. One is (or at least used to be) available for Holley carbs through Sacramento Mustang, but they retail for just under $100. If you have a 3 speed like a C4 then all you'll need to do is make sure the carb has a kickdown linkage. Mind you I got my old Carter to work with my AOD...but I think that was just sheer luck. Hope this helps...let me know if there's anything else I can clear up for you." -by Steve H

●
See these 1989 Ford Truck Service Manuals - Google Drive
Click "Drive" in pop-up
Includes:
1989 Ford Bronco Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
1989 Bronco & Ford Truck Emissions Manual
1989 Ford Car/Truck Pre-Delivery Manual
1989 Light Duty Truck Volume A: Body/Chassis/Electrical Volume 1 of 2 note
Google Drive "can't scan this file for viruses. It is too large for Google to scan for viruses.
." Although Google states, "Would you still like to download this file?" It CAN be downloaded and I found no virus reared its ugly head.
&
1989 Light Duty Truck Volume A: Body/Chassis/Electrical Volume 2 of 2
1989 Light Duty Truck Volume B: Engine
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Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf found by BroncMom!

See my mostly recovered site by my friend schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources.

1989 Ford Bronco Dealer Brochure

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary
Al

 

[89bronco89!]

This is in the 78-79 section. which would not have been EFI.

what are you working on?

I’m an idiot! Sorry. I’m working on an 89 Bronco.

 

[hardballer]

Now before everyone scalps me about this I am wanting to do the switch. I know it might be dumb for power and such but it’s what I want. lol. Can some let me know about any major things or has a step by step? Thanks

Engine harness comes off by disconnecting I think 4 round connectors on driver fender well. One of those connectors has a bigger than the others red wire, that's your power for distributor/ign box (I used hei), pull that wire out of engine harness. Your gr/rd wire from your tfi module is the tach signal, pull that out of engine harness. Pull your ac compressor wires out of engine harness to keep ac. I used my stock fuel pumps and just added a return style regulator. I de-pinned the fuel pump ground from the ecm connector and hooked to constant ground so when the key is on the fuel is on, there is a bigger black ground wire in one of the connectors. I soldered the end of an unused wire to the ecm ground wire and re-pinned it to fender well connector . Put female spade connectors on power and tach wire and hook to distributor/ign box. I de-pinned one of the round connectors on fender well and re-pinned the wires I used to just one connector because the power, ac, and tach wires go into 2 or 3 different connectors on the fender well just to clean it up. Aside from collecting all the parts that's pretty much it as far as wiring. Throttle cable and kickdown I bought ebay lokar knock off. Stock cables are way too long. You could probably hack something together but I chose not to.

 

[89bronco89!]

This is awesome and you all kick a@@. I have asked elsewhere and most of the time I’m explaining why I want to do it. With the intake and carb, can they be any intake and carb? I could pull one from many junk vehicles I am near but would want to get a new carb. Is there any carbs that are setup already for this stuff? I’ve tried google and most of the time you just get general stuff. I might not be as good as others with my googling. Lol

 

[hardballer]

Stock low rise intake will work with hei. Higher rise intakes require a ready to run style dist w/separate coil. The stock coil will work. Just run your wires to coil instead of dist.

 

[89bronco89!]

Sorry y’all for the delay in my comments back. Been fighting a crude that the whole family got. Now when you all say get rid of the computer and such that’s not the fuel rail and injectors right? Sorry for my ignorance I’m an amateur mechanic and a semi professional mor-on.

 

[hardballer]

When you unhook those connectors on the fender well literally every wire on top of the motor will come right off in one big harness. Carbed intakes have no provision for injectors and since you aren't using them anyways they come off as well. Forgot to mention in previous response if you are using stock coolant and oil pressure gauges you need to pull those wires out along with the a/c wires. I used aftermarket gauges so didn't use them. I actually cut the ends off the the fuel rails and used the fittings to attach new fuel lines and regulator to stock feed and return lines on truck. At this point the computer is literally doing nothing so you can either leave it in there or take it out. I took it out in case I want to sell it or use it on another vehicle.

 

[89bronco89!]

When you unhook those connectors on the fender well literally every wire on top of the motor will come right off in one big harness. Carbed intakes have no provision for injectors and since you aren't using them anyways they come off as well. Forgot to mention in previous response if you are using stock coolant and oil pressure gauges you need to pull those wires out along with the a/c wires. I used aftermarket gauges so didn't use them. I actually cut the ends off the the fuel rails and used the fittings to attach new fuel lines and regulator to stock feed and return lines on truck. At this point the computer is literally doing nothing so you can either leave it in there or take it out. I took it out in case I want to sell it or use it on another vehicle.

Thank you so much for the info on that. I just want to make sure I am doing it right. I have a carb and intake off an 80 302. Is this ok to put on? I know the lokar tv cable needs to have a special bracket but is it necessary to buy a fancy holly carb and such.

 

[hardballer]

If your bronco is a 302 you're good, 351 and 302 intakes are different. If its all a stock setup you can probably just buy stock cables. Just price it all out and see whats most cost effective. You're literally just going back to fuel/air/spark. 12v to coil, 7-9 psi fuel pressure to carb, and an air filter. **** you could just wire 12v on a toggle switch to the coil and make it run as long as the key will activate the starter.

 

[89bronco89!]

That’s good to hear. I was worried that I had to buy the 900 intake and carb in order for this to work. I think it’s a 2 bbl carb. That will be ok?

 

[hardballer]

Yeah it'll work.