Engine Running rough..

[BroncoNutt]

I really doubt the timing chain slipped...

the truck only has 168k miles... It most likely the Balancer slipped.

 

[bobstrat]

I really doubt the timing chain slipped... the truck only has 168k miles... It most likely the Balancer slipped.

only 168k miles? thats alot of miles. ive retired more vehicles at 150k than ive kept. you are definitely due a new timing chain if youre still running the original. maybe im wrong but i find it very unlikely your balancer slipped. when you pulled the plugs were they the right color? any oil on them? do you own a vacuum gauge? i know its old fashioned and all but alot of useful info can be obtained by observing manifold vacuum.

first things first though, get a haynes manual and perform the self diagnostic test. see if you come up with any codes. post anything you might find here. second thing, crawl under the truck and clean the scale with numbers on your balancer. it should look like the picture someone posted earlier. then get a timing light and check your initial timing with the timing light and make sure your spout connector is removed. if you dont remove the spout you can turn the distributor all you want the computer will correct the timing.

oh and when your not working on the truck, leave your haynes manual in the bathroom. youll learn it cover to cover in no time.

 

[bobstrat]

oh yeah and check out this page

crash course in ford computer controlled engines ala miesk5

 

[wtfdissux]

oh and when your not working on the truck, leave your haynes manual in the bathroom. youll learn it cover to cover in no time.

lol thaught I was the only one that did that but when doing so at 3am do you get dressed and run out to your truck just to check something before you loose the idea?

anyhow the chances that the distributor needs to pulled and turned are slim to none and if it does then the chain is shot best advice i saw is get the codes from the moter and DIAGNOSE it dont just try this and try that replace this and replace that it will cost you a lot more in the long run and may never get it right thats why shops charge a diagnostic fee we go in get all the info run through flow charts and step by step eliminate components until we can say with certainty that the problem A sening bad info to B caousing C to fail you need to replace A and C not replace A B and C and hope that was it

 

[BroncoNutt]

I messed around with some sensors and found out that my ECS ( Engine Coolant sensor) Went out.. or is going out.

I unplugged it and the truck ran like a top.. I replugged it in and It ran like ****.

I shouldve figured that was it..

It controls Air/Fuel Ratio, Timing Advance, and the Egr

Thats why it ran like I had a Vacume Leak.. .

Is their any harm in leaving the ECS Unplugged?

 

[wtfdissux]

I shouldve figured that was it.. It controls Air/Fuel Ratio, Timing Advance, and the Egr

Is their any harm in leaving the ECS Unplugged?

I think you answered the question already if it controls those functions and those are need to run correctly yes I think it should be replaced and is needed

 

[BroncoNutt]

I think you answered the question already if it controls those functions and those are need to run correctly yes I think it should be replaced and is needed

Ok it replaced the Sensor and It didnt do anything to help the motor.. It still runs like crap and

When I unplug it, the motor starts to run better? Other wise the truck is getting on my nerves and

I feel like driving it off a cliff! PLZ HELP!!!

While I was at it I Checked the Codes!

I double checked them all to make shure they were correct:

Here they are >>>

67

67

11

82

22

93

45

11

82

22

93

45

1

 

[bobstrat]

Ok it replaced the Sensor and It didnt do anything to help the motor.. It still runs like crap andWhen I unplug it, the motor starts to run better? Other wise the truck is getting on my nerves and

I feel like driving it off a cliff! PLZ HELP!!!

While I was at it I Checked the Codes!

I double checked them all to make shure they were correct:

Here they are >>>

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP

67

11 system ok

82 AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection

22 map (vacuum) out of range

93 (O,R)

Throttle linkage binding or bad ISC motor ISC HO2S not reading Fuel control

Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions

45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection

 

[BroncoNutt]

So what does all this mean??

What should I do?

 

[bobstrat]

lol thaught I was the only one that did that but when doing so at 3am do you get dressed and run out to your truck just to check something before you loose the idea?

whew ..... i thought i was the only one that did that too.

 

[bobstrat]

well the 82 and the 45 point towards the air injection system.

22 is saying the map vacuum signal is out of range.

i would do some research on the air injection system.

i guess i would check my manifold vacuum as well. right at the tree first, if thats good i would test the map sensor, as yardape suggested. youll need a vacuum pump to do that. at least i think you need one.

maybe wtfdissux will help you out with deciphering the codes.

 

[Roadkill]

Ok it replaced the Sensor and It didnt do anything to help the motor.. It still runs like crap andWhen I unplug it, the motor starts to run better? Other wise the truck is getting on my nerves and

I feel like driving it off a cliff! PLZ HELP!!!

I'm going to make a guess here. On computerized engines, the computer gathers information from all the sensors and determines the optimum setting for things like timing and fuel/air mix. When it knows that a signal is eroneus (for example from the O2 sensor before it gets warmed up) it will use a set of default values that are not based on actual conditions. This will allow the engine to run smooth until the sensors reach operating temp., but will not deliver the best fuel economy or power output.

Now for my guess: I suspect that when you unplug the sensor, the computer is compensating by going into this failsafe mode where it is running off preset timing and mixtures. These pre-sets are elimating the effects of a bad reading somewhere. Wether that reading is coming from an actual faulty mechanical component or a bad sensor, I don't know. Maybe if Miesk5 happens to see this post, he will have some better information than me. He seems to be a real **** with computer codes and their possible causes.

I know this is not the complete answer to the problem, but maybe it will help you in the right direction. You may want to consider WTFDISUX's suggestion and let someone diagnose it for you. I hate to see you spending so much money throwing parts at it.

Good Luck [-o<

 

[wtfdissux]

I seem to remember that you said something about acting like a vacuum line was loose did you check the ones going to the thermactor valve as the 82 22 93 and 45 would all be tripped by that also when in idle after cold kick down does it surge and stall (not necessarily completely)?

 

[BroncoNutt]

I seem to remember that you said something about acting like a vacuum line was loose did you check the ones going to the thermactor valve as the 82 22 93 and 45 would all be tripped by that also when in idle after cold kick down does it surge and stall (not necessarily completely)?

I will check the Ones going to the Thermactor valve...

Also yes after the cold Idle start and the motor goes into "Normal" rpms then the truck surges and the motor shakes and the Engine starts sucking in lots of air and almost completely stalls.

 

[BroncoNutt]

well the 82 and the 45 point towards the air injection system. 22 is saying the map vacuum signal is out of range.

i would do some research on the air injection system.

i guess i would check my manifold vacuum as well. right at the tree first, if thats good i would test the map sensor, as yardape suggested. youll need a vacuum pump to do that. at least i think you need one.

maybe wtfdissux will help you out with deciphering the codes.

Ya I was wondering the same thing about the Engine Cooliant solinoid..

Maybie thats not the problem its Most likely another thing like the Map?

Im gonna Unplug the battery for 10 mins and Re do the test and see what Codes I get.

I will post back asap...

 

[BroncoNutt]

Ok I ran the test again after disconnecting the battery for 10Min..

I got the codes:

67

67

11

51

5

Then I started the motor and ran it for about 5 min...

Then ran the codes again and got these..

67

67

82

91

82

9

Hopefuly you guys can help me!

Thx

 

[BroncoNutt]

Anybody??

 

[bobstrat]

yo check your mail i sent you a list of the two digit codes. im too lazy to keep looking them up.

 

[wtfdissux]

ok dont have anything on the codes at the moment but have some suggestions first unplug and remove the IAC clean the carbon out of it and I mean really clean make sure that the pintle inside moves freely put it back on and do the same with the EGR valve after this disconnect the battery again (when doing this to clear codes you need to have the key on while disconnecting or the or the KAM (keep alive memory) may not reset , easy way is turn key on (do not start) and disconnect battery while doing the cleaning

after this is done, get a spray bottle withwater and a can of carb cleaner first using the water with the engine running mist around all plug wires and cap rotor looking for stray sparks

next with engine still running use carb cleaner spay around throttle body intake (upper and lower) around the Tab and Tad solenoids the thermactor valve all vacuum lines charcoal canister well you get the idea and thing that gets vacuum if the engine starts to run different while spaying a particular area recheck the area and finish checking let us know what happens

by the way forget the codes for now you have done so much tinkering hear and there randomly the codes may be caused by what has been done not what is wrong

 

[miesk5]

for the self test; was it the key on; engine running?

91 (rc*): oxygen sensor voltage always lean, bank #2. down stream sensor is numbered 2; In Lean conditions (High in Oxygen, low fuel level) the sensor returns a low voltage because there is less differential between the oxygen in atmosphere; the wire connection to the sensor should be checked first; ck the wires for chafing. Then inspect the connector on the sensor for moisture or damage to the pins

HO2S;

circuit shorted to Ground

Water in harness connector

Open circuit

Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring

Damaged HO2S

or, Suspect vacuum leaks, EGR system, plugs, plug wires, HEGO sensor

other poss.causes;

Fuel System: