L\Bronco
Well-known member
A scrap front brake rotor from a mid sized car works great to balance the trans around that sump in the pan.
Cheers
89 Bronco II new to me
- Thread starter grumpy old man
- Start date
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Cheers
grumpy old man
Active member
Hopefully that is information I will never need to know. I would rather spend a weekend in a broken elevator with Justin Beeber and my ex wife than crawl under that thing and pull the trans again.
But thanks anyway.
But thanks anyway.
grumpy old man
Active member
OK guys got the trans back in and a short trip around the neighborhood all seems to be well, I am now in the gruesome process of sanding to bare metal. Mostly not too bad because I am taking off the factory paint job. The rust on the top and hood however...................
New issue, spark plugs. Figure the car is going to be 1000 miles away, don't even look at the existing, put in new. Question is what type. Sparkplugs have changed dramatically in the last 34 years and I am wondering if I should upgrade. The reason I ask is because I have run into some weird sparkplug issues over the years. My initial gut reaction is to just go with the factory Motorcraft and have done with it but would like to know if anyone has had experience with platinum or ?
New issue, spark plugs. Figure the car is going to be 1000 miles away, don't even look at the existing, put in new. Question is what type. Sparkplugs have changed dramatically in the last 34 years and I am wondering if I should upgrade. The reason I ask is because I have run into some weird sparkplug issues over the years. My initial gut reaction is to just go with the factory Motorcraft and have done with it but would like to know if anyone has had experience with platinum or ?
L\Bronco
Well-known member
Hey Grumpy
I was a drivability Tech at a Ford dealer when those were new, and my go to would be either motorcraft or autolite. I haven't experienced much difference with either.
Single platinum is perfect for that application. (They will last much longer than traditional copper.) Double platinum is also fine (just more expensive with no benefit in a distributor ignition system.)
Hope that helps
Cheers
Motech
Well-known member
I'm a firm believer in the factory Motorcraft in this engine. My views on platinum in copper/nickel apps below...
I never liked putting platinum in distributor copper/nickel apps because I've diagnosed too many misfires when folks were "upsold" platinum plugs in their distributor apps.
HOWEVER...
This was always the cut-rate Bosch platinum units, a nono in my book.
That said, I would not debate the use of Motorcraft platinum plugs in this app if you approve. I would discourage it without new cap, rotor and wires though, and still would not do it myself.
I am on the OEM bandwagon.
Really look at it this way, How many miles do you expect to get? You will probably never need even crappy copper plugs again in its life.
More than a few times I jumped on the it has to be better bandwagon. One in particular almost became a very costly mistake.
I had a 96 bronco with a 5.8. It is a common tune procedure to increase spark plug gap, upgrade camp rotor and coil for more voltage. Some guys claimed big gains from doing this so I had to try it.
First big road trip the aftermarket coil failed. Got towed to an oreilly's auto parts and replaced with with same brand "upgraded" coil. Second major road trip I caught it failing before we were stranded and made it to advance autoparts to get another "upgraded" coil.
got home, put the oem back on and never had another problem. Even with the bigger spark plug gap and other upgraded components.
Another time. I got talked into trying E3 spark plugs in that same vehicle. Looks great on paper. guy told me how much he loved them in his pickup. blah, blah, blah. I did it.
Outside temps dropped below 30 degrees truck would not start. I screwed with it some, did all the basic checks. Figured, well it has 240k miles maybe the engine is finally shot.
As a last ditch effort after checking everything else including compression and timing chaining. I couldn't find anything wrong so I put OEM plugs back in it and it ran like new again for a few years at least because I ended up selling it.
Really look at it this way, How many miles do you expect to get? You will probably never need even crappy copper plugs again in its life.
More than a few times I jumped on the it has to be better bandwagon. One in particular almost became a very costly mistake.
I had a 96 bronco with a 5.8. It is a common tune procedure to increase spark plug gap, upgrade camp rotor and coil for more voltage. Some guys claimed big gains from doing this so I had to try it.
First big road trip the aftermarket coil failed. Got towed to an oreilly's auto parts and replaced with with same brand "upgraded" coil. Second major road trip I caught it failing before we were stranded and made it to advance autoparts to get another "upgraded" coil.
got home, put the oem back on and never had another problem. Even with the bigger spark plug gap and other upgraded components.
Another time. I got talked into trying E3 spark plugs in that same vehicle. Looks great on paper. guy told me how much he loved them in his pickup. blah, blah, blah. I did it.
Outside temps dropped below 30 degrees truck would not start. I screwed with it some, did all the basic checks. Figured, well it has 240k miles maybe the engine is finally shot.
As a last ditch effort after checking everything else including compression and timing chaining. I couldn't find anything wrong so I put OEM plugs back in it and it ran like new again for a few years at least because I ended up selling it.
grumpy old man
Active member
Motech, your response is exactly why I asked. I had a 500 SL that ran like crap on platnums. The plugs that worked best were the cheapest champions that you could buy. Had a friend with an old MG that would not run on champions. Knew a guy that ran a Corvette at bonneville and just for giggles he ran a record run with 8 different plugs in the engine, however that was back in the 60's when all plugs were pretty much the same. Think I will stick with the motorcraft, when I actually did this for a living I never used anything but factory recommended.
Thanks All
Thanks All
grumpy old man
Active member
I'm BAAAAACK. Found a new problem, the rear quarter glass rubber. Apparently it has not been available for more than 10 years. I was going to cut the rubber back paint it and have the windows reset so the paint edge would be under the new rubber. Fortunately I was in the neighborhood of my glass man who told me that it was a good thing I stopped, that the rubber was unavailable. This rubber looks exactly like you would expect for a rubber piece that has been cooking in the desert. I really hate leaving it on the car with everything else I am doing. He assures me that it wont leak because of the way the window is installed but it is pretty ugly. anyone have a cure?
The common problem working on old cars!
The common problem working on old cars!
Motech
Well-known member
Vaseline?
grumpy old man
Active member
OK guys. I am getting down to the detail work on the final assembly. I do not believe that my granddaughter has ever been around a car that did not have a lock unlock fob. With that in mind I purchased a viper remote and cannot find any reliable install information. What information I have gathered seems to be 75% that the 89 and subsequent have door lock/ unlock solenoids. Question is if it does have solenoids where are they. I have tried tracing the wires with my Klein wire tracer, which I have used on any number of automobiles, with success, and on this I lose the circuit on the firewall side of the wsw and coolant tank.
What I do know is that using a fused jumper if you jump to either the lock or unlock terminal on the switch it will instantly blow a 30A fuse so that is obviously not the connection point.
I tried unsuccessfully getting information from Viper they just state I need to go to a "professional" installer. Trouble with that is I have on numerous occasions had to fix installations done by the "profesionals" and would rather do it myself.
According to the wiring diagram I have it shows solenoids in the circuit but does not give a location so here I sit.
What I do know is that using a fused jumper if you jump to either the lock or unlock terminal on the switch it will instantly blow a 30A fuse so that is obviously not the connection point.
I tried unsuccessfully getting information from Viper they just state I need to go to a "professional" installer. Trouble with that is I have on numerous occasions had to fix installations done by the "profesionals" and would rather do it myself.
According to the wiring diagram I have it shows solenoids in the circuit but does not give a location so here I sit.
Tough project.
I don't trust the diagrams either.
Usually you have like 3 wire and 5 wire switches. Which do you have?
i find that out by pulling the driver's door panel.
Then I find the wires where they pass through the door into the driver's side kick panel.
I usually tap them there.
Once you know the number of wires and wire colors then you can find a diagram to match what you are seeing. Then maybe you can find an easier place to tap in.
Or just grab a test light and sort through it logically.
I don't trust the diagrams either.
Usually you have like 3 wire and 5 wire switches. Which do you have?
i find that out by pulling the driver's door panel.
Then I find the wires where they pass through the door into the driver's side kick panel.
I usually tap them there.
Once you know the number of wires and wire colors then you can find a diagram to match what you are seeing. Then maybe you can find an easier place to tap in.
Or just grab a test light and sort through it logically.
grumpy old man
Active member
Should have mentioned that. It is a 5 wire switch but the wiring on this thing is a bit weird. The wires from the door go inside the front fender and plug in behind the headlight. The diagram I have matches the color code at the switch and I have traced it to the connectors but for some reason my wire tracer looses it just short of the firewall. Using a test light I have identified the lock and unlock wires at the switch but if I try to jumper either wire it will instantly blow a 30A fuse. Apparently the switch is doing more than just energizing a wire, it must be altering a circuit.
The wiring diagram shows the switches feeding lock and unlock solenoids but gives no indication of where those solenoids are. Just to clarify I am not speaking about the solenoids that operate the locks at the door latches this has motors operating those. I am speaking about solenoids that are getting fed by the switch and then directing the current to the door lock motors
Poking around on the internet most information I have found states that 89 and later have those solenoids in the circuit so I am wondering if mine might be an early 89 wired without solenoids. One front fender has an 89 date stamped on it and the other an 88 date so it might be an early 89.
If the switches are direct feed to the lock motors I will need to wire in solenoids but how, what and where.
The wiring diagram shows the switches feeding lock and unlock solenoids but gives no indication of where those solenoids are. Just to clarify I am not speaking about the solenoids that operate the locks at the door latches this has motors operating those. I am speaking about solenoids that are getting fed by the switch and then directing the current to the door lock motors
Poking around on the internet most information I have found states that 89 and later have those solenoids in the circuit so I am wondering if mine might be an early 89 wired without solenoids. One front fender has an 89 date stamped on it and the other an 88 date so it might be an early 89.
If the switches are direct feed to the lock motors I will need to wire in solenoids but how, what and where.
grumpy old man
Active member
OK if anyone out there needs the information I believe that I have figured it out. I was looking to connect in upstream of the solenoid which made it necessary to find the blasted thing. While studying the wiring diagram it dawned on me that all the lock motors interconnect, operate on 12 volts and any of the three can be easily accessed. I am looking for the complex when the simple is looking right at me. I am in the left door so I unplugged the lock motor and energized it with my 12V jumper. Jump one side and the other two locks lock. Jumper the other side and they unlock.
The only problem now is to find them under the hood. The way the doors are wired I would need to pull the fender to get any wiring into the door but if I can find them at the firewall plug I can put all the wiring under the hood and don't even need to crawl under the dash. Tomorrows project
The only problem now is to find them under the hood. The way the doors are wired I would need to pull the fender to get any wiring into the door but if I can find them at the firewall plug I can put all the wiring under the hood and don't even need to crawl under the dash. Tomorrows project
grumpy old man
Active member
Finally got the Bronco on the road. I can honestly say that in the 65 plus years I have been looking at open hoods I have never had a bigger fight. The current issue is the check engine light. Interestingly enough I have never dealt with a Ford OBD 1, so am not familiar with the flash pattern. It is flashing 3 ones and a four. there is an extended pause between the flashes so I do not know how to interpret what I have.
I spent a lot of time with GM's and their flash timing is quick with a two digit number and a longer time between codes. Anyone have any experience with Ford OBD1?
If it sheds any light on the issue as soon as you shut it off and restart the light resets. I do notice a very slight idle roll occasionally, seems to coincide with engine start and warmup. other than that it starts and runs fine but it will not pass cal smog with a CEL. I would rather not just throw parts at it so if anyone can narrow down the issue with the info provided I would greatly appreciate it.
I spent a lot of time with GM's and their flash timing is quick with a two digit number and a longer time between codes. Anyone have any experience with Ford OBD1?
If it sheds any light on the issue as soon as you shut it off and restart the light resets. I do notice a very slight idle roll occasionally, seems to coincide with engine start and warmup. other than that it starts and runs fine but it will not pass cal smog with a CEL. I would rather not just throw parts at it so if anyone can narrow down the issue with the info provided I would greatly appreciate it.
L\Bronco
Well-known member
Hey Grumpy,
Ford early OBD1 used 2 digit codes, the format is hard codes first (Faults that are present at the time of testing) Then there will be a single flash, (long pause, quick flash, long pause) which is a separator code. (separates The hard codes from the intermittent codes.)
A pass is 11-10-11 (10 is the single flash\long pause.
If you unplug the shorting wire or scan tool before the last code is done flashing,(Twice each) the codes will be cleared.
Hard (on-demand) codes won't clear because they indicate a current failure.
There is no code 34 listed for a 2.9. Maybe try one more time after the light comes on.
Hope that helps
Cheers
grumpy old man
Active member
Ok checked it again. first time I checked it got a quick flash and then three single flashes with a pause in between them. A longer pause and a single flash pause and then 4 flashes. I unplugged it before it finished the second series. Going for a drive down the freeway, will see what happens. Thanks
grumpy old man
Active member
took it down the freeway and it popped the CEL at about 16 miles. Rechecked at the test plug and the sequence has changed slightly but it ultimately gets down to a single flash followed by 4 flashes. This repeats so I am assuming that this translates to a code 14, Baro sensor. Did a google search on the baro sensor and found a motorcraft. If you can confirm my diagnosis I will order it.
Do you happen to know where it is found?
Do you happen to know where it is found?
L\Bronco
Well-known member
Hey Grumpy
I dont see a code 14 listed for your model (89 Bronco-11 2.9L)
Was it during Key on - engine off?
The 2.9 didn't use a Baro sensor, They read barometric pressure off of the MAP when the engine is off just before it starts and during WOT.
Counting flashes is a bit of a crapshoot sometimes. Is there any way for you to gain access to a code reader that speaks old Ford to verify the code?
With a check engine light on, this should be a simple one.
Cheers
grumpy old man
Active member
The guy I work with that is still in the business laughed out loud when I asked him if he had an OBD1 reader. Have not checked ebay to see if there might be one there. The check was KOEO, the minute you turn the engine off and back on the CEL is off. I tried reading it with the engine running and could not figure how. when I connected the jumper with the engine running the rpm's went way up and the test light would not flash.
On the subject of ebay, in one thread I was reading on code 14 someone mentioned a Rotunda TFI-IV. looked it up on ebay and there are a ton of them but since I do not know what I am looking for I did not bid on anything. Since this bronco will probably be in my life for years it likely that I should have both if I can find them.
Found directions for getting codes with a test light on troublecodes.net. They are quite silent on the 2.9 but their code list shows baro sensor for 14 and my Haynes manual shows pip circuit.
To say that I am getting confused is an understatement. Would it be worth replacing the MAP sensor just for giggles? We do have the unknown factor of what was affected during its many years of sitting in the desert heat. One other thing I have noticed is that when you are driving around, once the CEL comes on when you shut the engine off for a quick stop and then start driving again the CEL is a lot faster to trigger than from a cold start. could temperature be an issue.
O well will peruse ebay for a ford OBD1 reader. wish me luck.
On the subject of ebay, in one thread I was reading on code 14 someone mentioned a Rotunda TFI-IV. looked it up on ebay and there are a ton of them but since I do not know what I am looking for I did not bid on anything. Since this bronco will probably be in my life for years it likely that I should have both if I can find them.
Found directions for getting codes with a test light on troublecodes.net. They are quite silent on the 2.9 but their code list shows baro sensor for 14 and my Haynes manual shows pip circuit.
To say that I am getting confused is an understatement. Would it be worth replacing the MAP sensor just for giggles? We do have the unknown factor of what was affected during its many years of sitting in the desert heat. One other thing I have noticed is that when you are driving around, once the CEL comes on when you shut the engine off for a quick stop and then start driving again the CEL is a lot faster to trigger than from a cold start. could temperature be an issue.
O well will peruse ebay for a ford OBD1 reader. wish me luck.
I have had a few different readers for OBD1 over the years. I think they are all thrown away now. All they really do is make it easier. They count the flashes for you and give you an easy way to reset.
I use a test light now.
When meisk gets time I bet he has a great link for this stuff.
On the code discrepancy I usually find haynes to be wrong when there are two opinions.
Is the Map sensor hooked up? Vac line going to it in good shape? Is it on the right port?
Usually a bad map will make the engine run rich. But I supposed it could fail the other way and make it run lean.
Rotunda TFI-IV is an iginiton tester. Doesn't sound like you are having ignition issues.
I use a test light now.
When meisk gets time I bet he has a great link for this stuff.
On the code discrepancy I usually find haynes to be wrong when there are two opinions.
Is the Map sensor hooked up? Vac line going to it in good shape? Is it on the right port?
Usually a bad map will make the engine run rich. But I supposed it could fail the other way and make it run lean.
Rotunda TFI-IV is an iginiton tester. Doesn't sound like you are having ignition issues.
