My New (old) 1989 Bronco II XLT

[ajbremer]

Monday - November 21st, 2022

AJB here from Arizona,

Just bought a 1989 Ford Bronco II XLT with the 2.9L engine. Got it for $1,500. I was told of the problems it had before I bought it, it wouldn't start but ran good previously. The first thing I saw when I opened the hood was a good looking battery but the cables were on the opposite sides, pos to neg and neg to pos! It had been like that for months. The lights would turn on but lights will work even when you hook up the battery wrong. You can even see the backwards battery hookup in the original picture I have posted below.

So...I began to work on it. First thing I did was to check the battery voltage - it was 11.2 or something like that so I removed the battery and put a good one in and hooked the cables up properly - still wouldn't start, no noise, clicking, just nothing. First thing I decided to check after that was the Starter Solenoid so I jumped the 2 positive leads together with a screwdriver and heard the starter go...ok - good! Then next I checked the voltage at that little 'S' wire that goes to the top of the Starter Solenoid when the key goes fully to the start position - Yes, there was voltage. I bought a new Starter Solenoid for $20, put it in with a good battery and ... Yes, it started.

Next I checked for charge and it wasn't being charged - something is up with the Alternator. This is where I'm at this morning. I'll check the positive Alternator wire for continuity and if I don't solve the problem I'll remove the Alternator and get it checked and then go on from there.

I was really hoping that the backwards battery hookup didn't ruin the EEC (Engine Computer) or melt wires somewhere. I've looked all around and haven't been able to find any inline fuses blown. I also checked every fuse under the hood and under the dash, they are all fine.

After I get it up and running I'll change all filters, plugs, tires, and everything else. The headliner is sagging so I have to research that and find out how to make it stick up to the top again.

One more thing that kind of troubles me. Someone hooked up one of those cold air intake kits but I would rather go back to the way it was engineered, with the original intake. I've heard that a cold air intake can possibly increase horse power but shorten the life of the engine.

Anyway, I'll try to attach some pics, here ya go:

 

[ablediver]

When I would have sagging headliners on some of my old cars, for a temp fix, I would use a razor by one of the horizontal seams and spray 3M Spray Adhesive into the opening. Then, I would use a 6" roller to maximize adhesion. This will get you through until you can either install a replacement unit yourself or have a pro replace it. Hope this helps.

Ablediver out

 

[johnnyreb]

Monday - November 21st, 2022

AJB here from Arizona,

Just bought a 1989 Ford Bronco II XLT with the 2.9L engine. Got it for $1,500. I was told of the problems it had before I bought it, it wouldn't start but ran good previously. The first thing I saw when I opened the hood was a good looking battery but the cables were on the opposite sides, pos to neg and neg to pos! It had been like that for months. The lights would turn on but lights will work even when you hook up the battery wrong. You can even see the backwards battery hookup in the original picture I have posted below.

So...I began to work on it. First thing I did was to check the battery voltage - it was 11.2 or something like that so I removed the battery and put a good one in and hooked the cables up properly - still wouldn't start, no noise, clicking, just nothing. First thing I decided to check after that was the Starter Solenoid so I jumped the 2 positive leads together with a screwdriver and heard the starter go...ok - good! Then next I checked the voltage at that little 'S' wire that goes to the top of the Starter Solenoid when the key goes fully to the start position - Yes, there was voltage. I bought a new Starter Solenoid for $20, put it in with a good battery and ... Yes, it started.

Next I checked for charge and it wasn't being charged - something is up with the Alternator. This is where I'm at this morning. I'll check the positive Alternator wire for continuity and if I don't solve the problem I'll remove the Alternator and get it checked and then go on from there.

I was really hoping that the backwards battery hookup didn't ruin the EEC (Engine Computer) or melt wires somewhere. I've looked all around and haven't been able to find any inline fuses blown. I also checked every fuse under the hood and under the dash, they are all fine.

After I get it up and running I'll change all filters, plugs, tires, and everything else. The headliner is sagging so I have to research that and find out how to make it stick up to the top again.

One more thing that kind of troubles me. Someone hooked up one of those cold air intake kits but I would rather go back to the way it was engineered, with the original intake. I've heard that a cold air intake can possibly increase horse power but shorten the life of the engine.

Anyway, I'll try to attach some pics, here ya go:Welcome to the club. You,ll find people hear that will help you a good bit. Nice looking bronco

 

[Tiha]

Welcome!

You have a lot going on there. LOL, Not all bad though.

Sounds like you are on the right track. When the battery is hooked up backwards you never really know how much is damaged, Sometimes everything, sometimes nothing.

You are going about it correctly, one problem at a time.

Headlights don't care about polarity. So they should be fine.

Pulling the alternator and having tested is good, battery hooked up backwards could pop it.

Same with ECM but really if it started, that is a good sign.

 

[ajbremer]

Thank you Johnyreb and ablediver, you guys really help me out (I would like all the help I can get).

 

[johnnyreb]

Thank you Johnyreb and ablediver, you guys really help me out (I would like all the help I can get).

Well I read about the newer(above 78--its what I have) to try and learn something. In case I get one later on. I have learnt a good bit from reading these posts from the good people hear and sure you will to. Your learning when you came hear. Again--welcome to the club.

 

[miesk5]

Yo AJ,
Welcome to our site!
The 89 looks solid, but as you described, a previous owner or shop hacked it.

Here's the 89 Bronco II Dealer Brochure @ https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...8QFnoECCMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2jAZJL95mnrR1BWr8YqUom

I'll try to find a copy of the 89 EVTM for you.
Al

 

[ajbremer]

Yo AJ,
Welcome to our site!
The 89 looks solid, but as you described, a previous owner or shop hacked it.

Here's the 89 Bronco II Dealer Brochure @ https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...8QFnoECCMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2jAZJL95mnrR1BWr8YqUom

I'll try to find a copy of the 89 EVTM for you.
Al

Hey Johnyreb, it took me a little while to find out what 'EVTM' meant but then I got it. Electronic and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual would be a great thing for me to have so please...let me know if you can find one for my 1989 Bronco II XLT.

Yesterday I got my alternator tested and it was bad so I got another one. I'm going to start posting about it in another section here other than this introduction section.

I also have a Skoolie Bus that I converted all myself in which we travel all across America in, it has a ton of vacuum lines in it and now I know to look for a vacuum manual for it also. It's a 2000 Chevy 3500 with a 6.5L diesel engine. It's basically a 3500 van chassis with a bus body on it. (Pic Below)

 

[Tiha]

Now you're talking. I actually like those old 6.2 and 6.5 diesels. As gutless as they are they are still cool.

Had one in a suburban I took across country dozens of times. Simple and dependable. Smelled better, sound better, like a diesel should. LOL

Of course I bought my first powerstroke in 2001 and never looked back, but still. Lots of great memories in the old GM diesels.

 

[johnnyreb]

Now you're talking. I actually like those old 6.2 and 6.5 diesels. As gutless as they are they are still cool.

Had one in a suburban I took across country dozens of times. Simple and dependable. Smelled better, sound better, like a diesel should. LOL

Of course I bought my first powerstroke in 2001 and never looked back, but still. Lots of great memories in the old GM diesels.

Never owned a diesel,but drove them in the army. Had a duece and a half fuel tanker in Viet Nam. First trip to Long Binh I knew I had to get it running better.About 45 mph tops. I got to looking and their was a bolt between the floor and bottom of the gas(diesel ) pedal. I took it out and it woke that motor up. I could bark tires on it after that and get about 53 mph in 3rd gear. It was a real good truck.Had The Outlaw painted on the front of the hood. Only trouble I had out of it was the brakes locked up on highway 1 going to Long Binh.

 

[Tiha]

Never owned a diesel,but drove them in the army. Had a duece and a half fuel tanker in Viet Nam. First trip to Long Binh I knew I had to get it running better.About 45 mph tops. I got to looking and their was a bolt between the floor and bottom of the gas(diesel ) pedal. I took it out and it woke that motor up. I could bark tires on it after that and get about 53 mph in 3rd gear. It was a real good truck.Had The Outlaw painted on the front of the hood. Only trouble I had out of it was the brakes locked up on highway 1 going to Long Binh.

I worked for a construction company in the 80s when the 6.2 and 6.9 came out. and oh boy did they find the weaknesses. LOL

the 6.2s were great. In the half ton suburbans and blazers they would run 24 mpg pretty regular but lacking power. 3/4 ton suburbans ran about 14 mpg but plenty of power. Never had one in a pickup. The pickups were all fords. Back then we didn't have the synthetics we do today. So at 150k miles we would put rods and main bearings in. Then do a timing chain, pump and injectors. By the time they got over 300k-400k they were junk. Go to GM and buy a reman, nothing inside was useable in a rebuild.

Never actually drove a 6.2 or a 6.5 with a turbo. In a half ton truck I would be it would be more than enough. I am sure it moves your bus just fine the way it is geared.

 

[Motech]

I'll check the positive Alternator wire for continuity and if I don't solve the problem I'll remove the Alternator and get it checked and then go on from there

Check large alternator lead for battery power. If no volts there, look for burnt fusible link(s) at positive terminal of starter solenoid relay.



They are the first circuits to be damaged when large power short to ground occurs, designed to prevent catastrophic circuit damage in situations exactly like yours.

One more thing that kind of troubles me. Someone hooked up one of those cold air intake kits but I would rather go back to the way it was engineered, with the original intake. I've heard that a cold air intake can possibly increase horse power but shorten the life of the engine.

It's not that dramatic, but they can reduce engine performance if open element is exposed to engine compartment heat like yours is.

 

[ajbremer]

Check large alternator lead for battery power. If no volts there, look for burnt fusible link(s) at positive terminal of starter solenoid relay.

View attachment 30678

They are the first circuits to be damaged when large power short to ground occurs, designed to prevent catastrophic circuit damage in situations exactly like yours.



It's not that dramatic, but they can reduce engine performance if open element is exposed to engine compartment heat like yours is.

Thanks for that Motech. Those fusible links are hard to find (sometimes).

 

[mikefamig]

A fusible link can be substituted by a length of wire four AWG gauge sizes higher (smaller wire) than the wire used in the circuit. It acts like a fuse but can withstand momentary surges better than a fuse. It should be installed in a location away from any flammable material.

 

[Motech]

But why? In a desert emergency perhaps, but when fusible link wiring is so cheap and readily available everywhere...

 

[mikefamig]

Because you have it on hand.

 

[johnnyreb]

But why? In a desert emergency perhaps, but when fusible link wiring is so cheap and readily available everywhere...

Motech,I see you have never been hear where I live. You can,nt get anything hear--have to drive 25 miles away to get about anything. Even the internet is lousey.

 

[mikefamig]

Johnnyreb

I learned a long time ago to buy a roll of wire instead of just what I need for a job. Anytime I buy a small items like a plumbing, elbow or whatnot I buy two or a bagfull of them just to have them on hand. I have extra toilet bowl valves and automotive hose and what not. After living in my home for over 30 years, I am pretty well supplied.

 

[mikefamig]

I first started turning wrenches when I was 11 years old on my first minibike. I have been collecting tools and supplies ever since.

 

[mikefamig]

Motech

The 4awg rule of thumb is good to know if you don't have the old fusible link and you don't know what size to buy as a replacement.