5.8 cams heads ect

[racer2012]

My 96 is at 189K ..I ran across a spare 5.8 that I can rebuild and swap out .. I also have some spare parts I could use but don't want to waste ... A 90 5.0 ** cam 

    94 Lightning stock tube headers

   Fresh GT 40  61 cc heads 

  1.7 roller rockers

   stock 95 5.8 efi intake port  matched to the GT 40 heads 

  BBK throttle body 

 I'd like to do an economy rebuild on the spare motor .. It looks like I'll be able to save the bore .. If so I'll just do a hone, re-ring and bearings on the bottom .. Un less the machine shop see's something differant after cleaning and inspecting

I'm looking to make the motor more efficent at hiway speeds .. 70 to 75  @ 2100 to 2300 on the tach 

I don't do much pulling anymore but I don't need the power at 3500 to 4K 

Also what effect will deleting the EGR have on OBD II .. Will I get a lite and is there a way to get around it like the simulator for the 3rd EGO behind the cats

The block is going to the machine shop Monday so I'm trying to get my path laid out ..

It is one of my daily drivers so I'd like to stay with 87 at the pump and maybe get to use less of it .. 

Any other ideas .. Please send them on ..

Thanks

 

[Seabronc]

I'm looking to make the motor more efficent at hiway speeds .. 70 to 75  @ 2100 to 2300 on the tach 

I don't do much pulling anymore but I don't need the power at 3500 to 4K 

Also what effect will deleting the EGR have on OBD II .. Will I get a lite and is there a way to get around it like the simulator for the 3rd EGO behind the cats

Not sure which transmission you have in it, but this chart from Jeff's bronco graveyard will help you when considering the gearing required to get the RPM range you are shooting for.  I'd suggest using the formula given at the top.  The chart is set up for cruise at 55 MPH, but it will give you an idea of how the gearing effects it.  Also, the calculation is for 3rd gear, OD will drop the RPM to about 80% of the number derived form the calculation. http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280159

You also want to consider what the combination of tire size and gearing has on the torque.  So if better economy, (I say that with tongue in cheek  , since I have not heard of a a Bronco with real fuel economy), is your goal, then your moving to the low torque end, which may make off the line response a little unsatisfactory  . 

If you have a functioning EGR I would leave it.  Strange as it may seem, one of the main functions of the EGR is to reduce the ignition temperature.  This isn't too important with cast iron pistons, but if you have aluminum pistions removing the EGR can result in burning holes in the piston due to higher ignition temperatures.  I don't have time for the whole course here, but the EGR made it possible for the manufacturer to do a little more agressive timing which can cause preignition without the aid of the EGR.

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[Seabronc]

Also what effect will deleting the EGR have on OBD II .. Will I get a lite and is there a way to get around it like the simulator for the 3rd EGO behind the cats

"I'm looking to make the motor more efficent at hiway speeds .. 70 to 75  @ 2100 to 2300 on the tach 

I don't do much pulling anymore but I don't need the power at 3500 to 4K "

PS

Since your engine is run by a computer, removing sensors is like poking your finger in it's eyes and blinding it.  If the computer can't tell what is going on in the engine it can't properly adjust the fuel mixture to compensate for varous conditions.  That will result in poorer fuel economy than it can get if it can tell what going on. 

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Here is a link to some great information on EFI engines.  http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=92

 

[racer2012]

 I know the Bronco will never get 20mpg .. If I got 15 on the hiway I'd think it was a miracle .. What I don't want to do is make things worse .. Like I said I have a spare motor to build along with various parts that I could use .. I'd like some feed back on what people have tried and the results .. 

 From what it looks like now I may have to bore the block .. So if I go .030 over and bump the compression to 9.5 and use a set of Dart heads with 2.02/164 valves with a Mustang ** cam and Lightning shorty headers .. Will it enhance the driving without killing the milage ? 

 People I talk to seem to look at upper RPM performance .. And their 1st words are gut the cats and ditch the EGR .. Those are options .. But like stated .. The EGR has a purpose .. And without exotic computer manipulation .. Deleting EGR may be counter productive .. 

 Like I said I'd like to hear what others have tried and what theygained or lost ... Also Ideas on what could be done at this point on what I have to work with .. 

I was also thinking of going with the Speed Pro Hyper pistons for economy reasons, Plus it's just going to be a daily driver 

 Thanks

 

[miesk5]

yo Racer.

 If you have a E4OD transmission you must get a 5.8 PCM.

I know that the 96 EGR tube and some other emission parts are diff between 5.0 & 5.8

EGR Tube (also called, AIR Tube); The 1996 5.0L Air Tube is connected to an exhaust passage in the intake manifold and then goes to the EGR Valve, while the 5.8L is connected to the passenger side exhaust manifold



5.8 EGR Tube



5.0 EGR Tube

 

pics by Ryan M

The 5.0 has the Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid (TAB, AIRB, AM1)  & Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid (TAD, AIRD, AM2 as well as the Combination Air Diverter / Air Bypass Valve and all the hoses & wiring.

where as the 5.8 does not have this.

Overview in a 96 "...The mechanical AIR system uses a belt-driven pump as well as a check valve to deliver air into the exhaust system where required. The belt-driven air pump runs continuously so a bypass valve and/or diverter valve is used to direct airflow to the exhaust manifold (upstream air), the COC catalyst (downstream air), or directly to atmosphere (bypass/dump). The Mechanical AIR pump flow check monitors the HO2S signal at idle to determine if secondary air is being delivered into the exhaust manifold (upstream). The air/fuel ratio is commanded open-loop rich, the AIR bypass/diverter valves are directed upstream, and the time required for the HO2S signal to go lean is monitored. If the HO2S signal does not go lean within the allowable time limit, a low/no flow malfunction is indicated. (P0411). If the vehicle is equipped with a COC catalyst, the downstream air delivery as well. The air/fuel ratio is commanded open-loop rich, the AIR bypass/diverter valves are directed downstream, and the time required for the HO2S signal to go lean is monitored. If the rear HO2S signal does not go lean within the allowable time limit, a low/no flow malfunction is indicated. (P1411). The PCM outputs that control the bypass and diverter valves are checked for circuit continuity (P0413, P0414 Bypass valve), (P0416, P0417 Diverter valve). Currently, the 4.9L E and F-Series, 5.0L E and F-Series, and 7.5L F-Series incomplete vehicles utilize mechanical air system..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com

For Emission Parts and vacuum diagrams; Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal, Vacuum Diagrams & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.
On-Line for Free at Ford.
Click "Quick Guides" in left panel;
Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."
Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).
Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.
Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com

 

5.8 Vacuum Diagram; CALIBRATION: 6-64B-R05

5.0 Vacuum Diagram;

CALIBRATION: 6-53E-R10

 

[Seabronc]

 From what it looks like now I may have to bore the block .. So if I go .030 over and bump the compression to 9.5 and use a set of Dart heads with 2.02/164 valves with a Mustang ** cam and Lightning shorty headers .. Will it enhance the driving without killing the milage ? 

With a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio, you will more than likey be getting detonation problems with 87 octane , which mwans you will need to go with more expensive gas.  It sound like you want, "your cake an eat it too", but higher performance out of that engine equates to poorer economy. 

Having said that, if you realy want an economical daily driver, buy something else and save the Bronco for fun.  People generally don't buy Broncos expecting good milage.  You are not going to get 15 MPG by making those changes,  you probably will be lucky to get 8 - 10 MPG.

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