Worthless Mechanic

[RR-Texas]

Had to “Tag” her out, lazy mechanic forgot to tighten the clamps on the intake tubes, last week after replacing the manual temp gauge that quit working one month after install 7 years ago, not once, or twice, but 3 times!  First time it was routed perfectly, then I went back to admire my handy work except the gauge was not actually ran through the pillar gauge mount!

Second try, through the pillar mount, routed incorrectly under the dash, finally on the 3rd attempt.  So anybody can give me a discription and or a part number for this coolant block?  I really need an actual Ford manual!

Think I’ll fix that quality pillar gauge light wiring too

Thanks

 

[miesk5]

Yo R-R,

Stuff happens!  Been there, done stuff too!?

Problem with the "new look" here, our signatures don't show our Bronco or F Series years, nor engine, etc, so;

I figure you need this;





Two ECTs, one for the TEMPERATURE GAUGE and other for the EEC IV (ECT).

ECT = engine cooling temp sensor which threads into the "octagonal" tree shaped tube that's threaded into the lower intake manifold and has a small TB cooling tube and hose AND another metal tube/hose threaded into the side which goes to the heater core inlet IIRC.This "octagonal" tree shaped tube is available at Rock Auto for: 1993 FORD BRONCO 5.87 V8 : for exampleHeat & Air Conditioning : Heater Hose / Pipe

Suggest buying Motorcraft, all day, every day!MOTORCRAFT KT81 Click for more information about this part {#E8TZ18B402C} HVAC Heater PipeTube to manifold$46.79 btw, this is a priced drop of $2.00 since June 2016!!!

Same for 93 5.0.

BTW, Ford advises to apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new temperature gauge  sender.

 

[RR-Texas]

Thank you as usual sir, for now I just put the hose back on and will order the parts.

HOWEVER...

THIS must be that special Ford door seal test Bronco!?!?  I’ll bet it’s value just tripled???  

 

[miesk5]

Yo RR,

YW!


 



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DoorGsktFiller.JPG | Hits: 1773 | Size: 75.14 KB | Posted on: 12/19/12 | Link to this image
 

To rejuvinate collapsed door gaskets, insert foam caulk backer rod. Larger foam will fit, but this is sufficient, and fairly easy to install. I was able to push about 5 feet directly in, and then use needle-nose pliers through the vent holes to pull the rest through. A long wire fed through beforehand would have made pulling the rod in even easier.

Any leftovers can be used in the doors:

Immediately after this, the doors should be fully aligned to prevent further damage to the seals.
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6884-Door-Alignment

Finally, apply silicone spray **** &/or teflon dry **** to the gaskets to keep them soft, clean, and silent

 
doorfrontfill.jpg | Hits: 1546 | Posted on: 1/29/13 | View original size (392.18 KB)
This scrap of caulk-saver rod from the door gasket filler will prevent small pebbles & parts from jamming in the narrow gap, causing dents or rust. The bottom is open to allow water to drain rearward. It can also be used above the rear wheel arch reinforcements, and inside the door seals

 

[RR-Texas]

I had a new one from Jeff’s, I’m just surprised someone really but it on backwards after they painted it red.  

 

[RR-Texas]

Looks like the dash gave it up these last two years, had to wire tie it up on the PS.  Totally broke away at the top!