UGH!!@%& My Bronco blew up!

[BroncoDipper]

Okay...

I had my Bronco in the body shop that my son recommended. They fixed all the rust on the floor pan in the bed area and cab area. I have to say they did an outstanding job from what I saw the other day before they put the tailgate back on.

My son calls today with great news... the Bronco is all done! So I call the shop and the guy says yep it's done, but it won't start. He says, and I quote 'There are major problems with this thing'. Which is the last thing I wanted to hear.

I go to the garage to see what is going on. The guy tells me it is turning over but 'just won't start'. I get in to give it a crank and see what happens and first thing I notice is the outer ring for the ignition key is missing. In order to get the key to move I had to jiggle the gear selector. Sure enough it cranked but wouldn't start. I asked what happened to the ignition and he said that's the way it was when it came to him. (He was the second person to work on the floor pan). He said he pulled the plugs and said fuel is definitely getting to the cylinder and according to him there was spark too... THEN he tells me 'Well it did start up once.' He said he started it to back it out and it 'backfired really bad' and blew out my muffler! After that he said it just wouldn't start again. Wait, it gets better... When I was trying to crank it, the key felt like it was binding and really hard to turn. I turned the key to off, then tried again and this time it wouldn't even crank. The key felt like if I used any more force it would either break off in the ignition or something in the ignition switch was going to break. So he says "I think there is something wrong somewhere in your ignition system." Duh... ya think?! I can say with certainty that ONE of the problems is with the ignition switch.

I know... a lot going on here and I don't know where to start or what to think either. I really doubt the messed up ignition switch and gear selector is causing it to initially turn over but not to start, but it wasn't like that when it was taken in to the shop. And what would cause it to backfire so bad that it blew my muffler apart at the seam? Honestly up to this point the only thing wrong with my Bronco was some typical floor pan rust and I figured after I got that fixed I was going to have a pretty cherry Bronco. Now I have no idea what is wrong or how much this is going to cost. A mechanic is going to look at it tomorrow, but right now I am both ticked and sick to my stomach.

 

[BroncoDipper]

This may be very premature... but just as an absolute worse case scenario...

I found a '96 Bronco on Craigslist that I can get for under a $Grand. It has 135K miles, good motor and tranny AND lockout hubs. Why so cheap? No title so it's a parts truck only. So my question is can I use anything from this in my '87? I doubt my motor is hosed, but if they come back with something crazy like that, would the 302 in the '96 work in mine? I assume there would be a difference in the wiring harness, but not being a mechanic I don't know. What about the lockout hubs? I wanted to convert mine from auto hubs to manual anyway.

I'm just rambling I know... I don't even know what is wrong with mine yet, I am just surfing the web looking for possible parts and stuff and I ran across this. I also just found an '87 for $1000 but it didn't say anything about how it is mechanically. I assume for that price the body is shot, but again I was looking for replacement parts.

 

[Bully Bob]

OMG...! So sorry to hear that.. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

There's an old saying in the auto repair business; "Once you work on a vehicle, you're MARRIED to it.., anything that goes wrong fr. that point on is your fault..!!

However, in your case, did you note the mileage at the time you dropped off the truck for this work..? How long did they have it..?

Is it possible they used it for shuttle, personal use, or a loaner..? :glare:

I would think they would push it into the lot the minute it had issues & locked it up.., rather than tamper with it.

Sounds like a "cover-up"

B

 

[BroncoDipper]

OMG...! So sorry to hear that.. />/> />/>

There's an old saying in the auto repair business; "Once you work on a vehicle, you're MARRIED to it.., anything that goes wrong fr. that point on is your fault..!!

However, in your case, did you note the mileage at the time you dropped off the truck for this work..? How long did they have it..?

Is it possible they used it for shuttle, personal use, or a loaner..? :glare:/>/>

I would think they would push it into the lot the minute it had issues & locked it up.., rather than tamper with it.

Sounds like a "cover-up" />/>

B

Actually I was just talking to my wife and I am now suspecting that the first person that started working on the bed hosed something up and that's when he passed it on to the second body man to finish the job, and ultimately be the one taking the blame for giving me back a broken truck.

I have to say though that the work they did on the bed and cab was absolutely top notch and the quote was only $500. The second bodyshop guy felt so bad that the muffler blew and it wouldn't start that he said he only wanted $400 for the work. Honestly... IF they screwed my Bronco up I would rather have paid another shop more and have a working truck right now. In fairness, it is 26 years old and I realize things that old can and do break. But with that said... the first guy obviously knew he somehow broke my ignition, correct me if I am wrong but the cover/ring doesn't just fall off do they????

 

[Skitter302]

To me, It sounds like your Body Shop hosed your Bronco. Which sucks. But, like you said, is too early to tell. Just don't feel like you have to be a nice guy, make the shop pay for any part you can prove they broke.

This may be very premature... but just as an absolute worse case scenario...

I found a '96 Bronco on Craigslist that I can get for under a $Grand.

Can you link me the Ad I want see it /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[miesk5]

yo BroncoDipper,

As BULLY BOB & Skitter302 advised;

did you speak with the OWNER of the body shop?

If the Bronco was driven to the shop by you or someone else, let the owner know thatas well as lock cylinder damage, etc.

The body shop can repair the Bronco, if they need help, tell them to come here and we can give them the info on Troublehooting & Repair of;

Ignition; System;

Key Cylinder & Ignition Actuator Rod

Ignition Switch

For instance;

Lock Cylinder & Switch Replacement & Depictions in 87-91 (figure 1) (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)

Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/14120-87-91-ignition-switch-info-troubleshooting-guide/

 

[Seabronc]

There seems to be a quick jump to blame the body shop here. I'd either have it towed to your house where you can do some real trouble shooting or to a trusted mechanic. If after the actual problem is located, it appears to be the fault of the body shop, then I would take the evidence back to the owner and go from there. As it is all you will end up in is a, "******* contest". I find it hard to believe that repainting rust on the body had anything to do with the engine.

From the initial description of the engine problem, "back fire and blow the muffler off and then failing to start", sounds more like a timing chain jumping a few teeth.

Unfortunate for the person with his hand on the key but not necessarily his or anyone else in the shop.

So my suggestion is to get it away from there and do a logical trouble shooting procedure on it.

 

[BroncoDipper]

There seems to be a quick jump to blame the body shop here. I'd either have it towed to your house where you can do some real trouble shooting or to a trusted mechanic. If after the actual problem is located, it appears to be the fault of the body shop, then I would take the evidence back to the owner and go from there. As it is all you will end up in is a, "******* contest". I find it hard to believe that repainting rust on the body had anything to do with the engine.

From the initial description of the engine problem, "back fire and blow the muffler off and then failing to start", sounds more like a timing chain jumping a few teeth.

Unfortunate for the person with his hand on the key but not necessarily his or anyone else in the shop.

So my suggestion is to get it away from there and do a logical trouble shooting procedure on it.

The only thing I am really skeptical about is my ignition switch and how the outer ring/housing just 'fell off'. It wasn't loose or any sign of any problem with it when I took it in. Other than that I acknowledged that being a 26 year old vehicle things do break.

It will be towed to my regular mechanic but I have to wait because both shops are closed now for the holidays.

 

[Bully Bob]

Ya.., we're pretty much a guessing-game here, with mechanical experience & similar vehicles with similar problems.

Most shops know not to go beyond their verbal or contracted work-order & let the owner know the minute there's something else wrong so as to prevent these "gray areas".

With good intentions, they may have tried to fix or work past an issue that only got worse.

Cooler heads will prevail once your mechanic has a look-see. >< <'>

Do let us know the outcome if you would. This is an interesting turn of events.

B

 

[BroncoDipper]

I wouldn't personally call it 'interesting' turn of event, more like a head slap and 'what's next'.

I was going to buy a soft top this payday, but now I have no idea how much this is going to cost to fix. The one thing I tell myself when something happens is 'at least when it's fixed it will be fixed... and won't be a problem again.' I knew I had some rust in the bed back by the gate, but when my son and I took the carpet out we found a few other spots. Nothing really bad, but they still needed taken care of. That was my mentality then too... that I knew I was going to have to put some work into this and when it is done it is done! I think it's fair to say though that everyone gets upset when hit with something unexpected like this. Especially considering the motor was rebuild and is super strong. I never expected to hear it won't start!

Oh well... let's hope it's nothing major. I know I at least need a muffler, hopefully that's the extent of THAT problem- hope they don't say I need the whole exhaust replaced.

 

[Bully Bob]

"..more like a head slap and 'what's next"

How funny..! (your analogy, not your situation) ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I know, nobody touches my EB but me. When it quit on me, wouldn't start at first, then "stumbled" all the way home out of this brutal desert..., I was "fit to be tied..!" I found & fixed a few things & it's OK now but, it still bothers me to this day..!

There's that old saying.., "all systems operate in failure mode".

"...it 'backfired really bad' and blew out my muffler!"

Not exactly sure what this means..? Did the muffler actually split open.., or just implode internally..?

A failed/failing (plugged) muffler may have started the ball rolling as to this problem.

If it actually "exploded".., that could mean raw fuel may have gotten down into the exhaust after several attempts to start...?

Again, just a guess & throwing a few things out there.... :-B

BTW.., do fill-in your info. pages (see mine left & below) as it helps us know what you have & what's been done.(like "new eng." didn't know this.)

You'll likely need help fr. this board in the future.

Good luck & "chin-up"... you'll get'er going again.

B

 

[BroncoDipper]

"..more like a head slap and 'what's next"

How funny..! (your analogy, not your situation) ^_^/>

I know, nobody touches my EB but me. When it quit on me, wouldn't start at first, then "stumbled" all the way home out of this brutal desert..., I was "fit to be tied..!" I found & fixed a few things & it's OK now but, it still bothers me to this day..!

There's that old saying.., "all systems operate in failure mode".

"...it 'backfired really bad' and blew out my muffler!"

Not exactly sure what this means..? Did the muffler actually split open.., or just implode internally..?

A failed/failing (plugged) muffler may have started the ball rolling as to this problem.

If it actually "exploded".., that could mean raw fuel may have gotten down into the exhaust after several attempts to start...?

Again, just a guess & throwing a few things out there.... :-B/>

BTW.., do fill-in your info. pages (see mine left & below) as it helps us know what you have & what's been done.(like "new eng." didn't know this.)

You'll likely need help fr. this board in the future.

Good luck & "chin-up"... you'll get'er going again.

B

The muffler actually split open.

And yeah I'm trying to keep a positive outlook on all this. I should know more in the next day or two after the mechanic looks at it.

 

[BroncoDipper]

Okay update time!

My son means well but...

That said,

He recommended the first guy who turned the Bronco over to the second body shop.

Okay, so everyone knows the story from above. I spoke to the second body shop again and he said he also does mechanic work although he's mainly a body shop. So I apologized about the misunderstand and miscommunications- from all sides. Turns out he was trying to get ahold of the guy that dropped it off because he didn't have my information and didn't know what to do and the first body guy wasn't returning his calls. Confusing? Yeah!

So I spoke to the 2nd guy again and he ended up fixing my Bronco, and the price was MORE than reasonable. He fixed the bed and cab floor pan: The bed was shot by the gate and had to be completely redone back there. Then when we took out the carpeting we found some holes on the fender wells in the bed (not bad, but still needed taking care of, and then the inner door area had a few holes in the cab. All in all not really bad, but still something that needed taking care of.

He did all that for $500.

Now for the cost of getting it running...

He replaced the ignition module on the outside of the distributor and got it running again but he said it was still running rough. So he pulled a distributor from a 302 he had laying there and swapped that out and replaced the plugs. He found a couple bad vaccum lines and fixed them, and then replaced the muffler- $300! So rust is gone and it's back to purring like a kitten... well big cat! And for under a grand. I am happy.

The only bad thing is I had to spend the money for the soft top on the repairs, so the top will have to wait until next payday.

It's almost done!

 

[RR-Texas]

It may have been brought up already and body shops should know, but anytime you weld on a vehicle you should disconnect the battery, you can fry computers. Sorry was headed out the door and just saw a few posts

 

[Bully Bob]

Good to know 'bout welding on a 'puterized vehicle.

Glad to see it's up-n-running..!! /

However.., I'm surprised none of us thought to ask how it was runn'n B/4 it went to the body shop...???

I say this 'cause with what was done to get it "purr'n".... seems it would have limped into the shop..??

And.., all in all., the cost was actually cheap.

----THANKS FOR THE UPDATE..!---

Have fun..!

B

 

[BroncoDipper]

It was running good when I dropped it off with my son. Somewhere between him and the final body shop is where the ignition key switch 'fell apart' and it quit running.