towing

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Matt_V

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Ok, so I figured while I didn't have much to spend on the Bronco right now, and waiting on my EVTM to arrive, I would install a tow hitch to the front bumper that I had already. Got it installed, then started wondering - Am I hurting anything by towing the Bronco if the key is on (so the steering wheel can turn) and the transmission in Neutral?

Thats all I should have to do right? I did this so while I am working on it and it isn't registered I can tow it to a shop or a gas station if I need to.

 

2NDTOUR89

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I would tow it using the transfer case in neutral. This will disengage the drive train unlike the transmission. The trans will still spin if it is in neutral but if the t-case is in neutral, it wont...

 

Roadkill

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2NDTOUR is right. If you have an automatic, make sure to put transfer case in nuetral. Towing an automatic in nuetral is not a good thing; the parts inside are spinning and generating heat but the pump is not circulating fluid through the cooler. If you are cursed with an electric shift transfer (like me), flat towing is really not an option except for very short distances. (such as a block or two to a gas station) but I still would not recomend it.

 

BroncoJoe19

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Agreed, flat towing a bronco is possible by putting the TRANSFER case in neutral.

Here is a '96 owner's manual.

http://www.analogstereo.com/pdf/om/bronco_...manual_1996.pdf

I would only do so slowly, and for short distances, because the bronco is over the weight limit permitted in most states for a towed vehicle without auxillary brakes. There are hydrolic and electric options that can be added to tow bars.

 
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Matt_V

Matt_V

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Yeah, forgot about the transfer case, but that makes sense.

I would only use it to get a little more gas than a 5 gallon can or maybe to a shop that isn't too far.

I'm pretty sure that my '82 doesn't have an electric shift tranny.

So, how do people tow cars behind RVs like this all the time? I guess they have the aux. brakes added to the bar?

 
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BroncoJoe19

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Yeah, forgot about the transfer case, but that makes sense.I would only use it to get a little more gas than a 5 gallon can or maybe to a shop that isn't too far.

I'm pretty sure that my '82 doesn't have an electric shift tranny.

So, how do people tow cars behind RVs like this all the time? I guess they have the aux. brakes added to the bar?
This is one system, that I don't think would work on vacuum assisted/power brakes.

http://www.readybrake.com/tow-bars.html

Here is another explaination I found.

It is a shame that it didn't explain the hydrolic type.

Towed Vehicle Braking Systems

More consumers are taking an interest in this subject. The British Columbia statute required auxilliary braking systems for towing in BC -- and for a period they enforced it. Also Ford & Chevy chassis began saying in their limitations that max towing design was under 2,000 pounds. Today there are is no significant enforcement on braking systems, even though most states require and enforce auxilliary braking systems on normal travel trailers over a relatively low threshold weight limit. Since the laws on toads are already there, there is potential liabiiity in the future.

It's therefore essentially a safety consideration. The urgency for an auxilliary braking system depends in part on comparing the size of motorhome versus size of toad.

Three basic approaches to braking systems.

1. Mechancal surge break in Autostop (Blue Ox). When MH brakes applied, toad pushes against receiver. That movement is translated into mechanical application of toad brakes. Anytime the toad's brakes are working, a light on the dash confirms they're working. Drawbacks: Needs to be level; and can't back up. To do so would be to apply the brakes on the toad. Something would give... By federal law, every car needs to be able to stop w/out power assist, thus the fact there is no "power" brake in operation is overcome. Two hour installation. It's adjustable so that easily changed to ease off on braking when e.g. downhill using an exhaust brake you don't wear out toad brakes.

2. Hydrolic brakes. Problem here is most people don't want to assume the liability. Complex, cost, installation time, risks.

3. Air systems. Generally use air system to push the brake down.

Many are non-proportional systems, meaning in panic stop, you'll get standard braking.

How easy are these things to hook up? Be sure to check that when looking at braking systems.

 
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Matt_V

Matt_V

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All those look 'neat' but for the cost and as little as it will actually be towed, I don't think it would be practical at this time. Like I said, until I get it registered it would be to tow it to the gas station or a local shop only. No long distances.

My major concern was damage to the drivetrain.

 

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