switching to a solid front axle

[meatheadz]

hey yall,

My 96 is still got stock suspension. I want to get a lift on it and am looking to go pretty high. I want to do it right the first time and I am wondering if I should go right into a straight axle conversion for the front end. what are the benefits here? I would like about 38+ boggers. Is this the best way to go, or should I be looking for a standard suspension lift kit? Also will I have to change out my gear ratios and dr shaft angles to fit these kind of tires?

Thanks.

 

[Justshootme84]

hey yall,
My 96 is still got stock suspension.  I want to get a lift on it and am looking to go pretty high.  I want to do it right the first time and I am wondering if I should go right into a straight axle conversion for the front end.  what are the benefits here?  I would like about 38+  boggers.  Is this the best way to go, or should I be looking for a standard suspension lift kit?  Also will I have to change out my gear ratios and dr shaft angles to fit these kind of tires?

Thanks.

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I say yes to the SAS for to get enough suspension lift for 38's. You will also need to change gears to a 5.13 ratio, and prolly extend the driveshafts. 38" tires are very heavy, and put alot of stress on the stock axles and drivetrain. Changing a flat tire in the mud is no picnic either. You'll also need to re-calibrate your speedometer. Check the lift laws in your state, so you don't get a ticket for being too tall or can't pass state inspection.

 

[meatheadz]

ok. What type of price range am I looking at here? Also what type of front axle am I going to need to go with to support this type of load?

thanx

 

[Txquadhunter]

ok.  What type of price range am I looking at here?  Also what type of front axle am I going to need to go with to support this type of load?
thanx

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To do it right the first time. D60 front to handle the 38's. these axles are in the $1,000 range. and Sterlin 10.25 rear.

Cheapiest SAS a D44 from a 78-79 F150 or Bronco. they'll pretty much swap right in. Search forum this swap was covered a week or so ago. price range $$ depends on what the HP D44 are running in your area or what price you find on a shipper. best way find a 78-79 F150 or bronco for a donner truck. use what you need and part the rest to make up in funds. plus you'll get the bullet proof NP205 tcase to swap right in.

 

[Yankee_Redneck]

If you want to do this right, look for an F350 donor in the year range the same as your Bronco. The VSS must be in the rear axle. There are numerous write-ups and a wealth of info on the net...

Being new to this site, not sure if I can mention another Bronco site...

Good luck...

 

[texan79&96]

to fit the straight axle (78-79 d44) you need at least 6" lift springs to clear the crossmember and the coil buckets from a 70s truck. the ttb coils are alot stiffer than the rate for a straight axle and the springs wont work with the old style coil cups/buckets. you will need to use superlift 9" coils to clear 38s without bodylift ot fender trimming, but would be better for the front driveshaft angle to go 6" and 3" bodylift. do some research and you can find out everything pretty easily. the hardest part of the swap is supposed to be the trac bar frame mount, but cage offroad has one coming out soon they have a whole swap kit in the works and so does fabrietch for $1700-1800. when you consider a top quality ttb lift with extended radius arms, rear springs, and the supperrunner steering kit it doesnt sound too bad to be able to easily bolt a straight axle in with no guesswork in a weekend. if 38s are just cause you like the big truck look keep in mind that a half ton axle, brake system, and steering components are not up to performing if you play hard with it. if you can afford/ find a 78-79 d60 from a f250-350 and buy the weld on wedges for the radius arms and build a trac bar mount for it, you will spend more time driving a less fixin broke stuff with low gears and 38s especially if you use a locker. i have a 79 bronco and a 96 f150 4x4.... the straight axle is better in every way and when i finish the 79 the 96 is gettin my other 79 axles i have lyin around. do some research and have fun with it.

 

[Bradt]

Whatever you do, just keep in mind that going that high will pretty much completely change how you wheel it, and how it handles both on, and off the road. Be safe.

brad

 

[ocalabronco]

your not going to like my post, but if you honestly have to ask the questions you are asking, you dont need to be doing it. your rig is stock. there really is no reason why you should be swapping in a solid D44 without learning your rig, what it can do in stock form ( which is actually quite alot), and the general basics of wheeling. It isnt a smart thing to go from stock to 38's just like that. work your way up. start out with a 4-6" TTB lift ( stock front setup) and run 33's or 35's. YOUr setting yourself up for lots of problems down the road.

and i'm not trying to bash this site my first night being here, but if you really want good SAS tech, so over to Fullsizebronco.com and dig through the SAS forum. any and all of your questions will be answered if you help yourself

 

[ocalabronco]

to fit the straight axle (78-79 d44) you need at least 6" lift springs to clear the crossmember and the coil buckets from a 70s truck.

not entirely true. you CAN run <6" lift with an SAS. but it takes some creative xmember trimming and bumpstop placement

the ttb coils are alot stiffer than the rate for a straight axle and the springs wont work with the old style coil cups/buckets.

once again, wrong. the TTB coils are relatively close to 78/79 rates, and you can make custom mounts if you were set on using TTB springs. using TTB lower mounts will net you about 2" additional lift, i.e. 6" TTB springs will give you 8" total lift

you will need to use superlift 9" coils to clear 38s without bodylift ot fender trimming, but would be better for the front driveshaft angle to go 6" and 3" bodylift.

guess what. im running 9" of lift in the front, and my d-shaft angle is dead inline with the pinion. of course i have extensions with lengthen my RA's and lessen the angle, but your d-shaft angle and caster can be adjusted through the use of differently degreed Cbushings

so does fabrietch for $1700-1800.

their kit sucks. no offense to JBG, but the kit is a waste of money. the only worthwhile part on it are the arms you can easily complete an SAS that performs BETTER for around a grand, less if you do the fabbing yourself. i did mine for about 700 bucks total

if you can afford/ find a 78-79 d60 from a f250-350 and buy the weld on wedges for the radius arms and build a trac bar mount for it, you will spend more time driving a less fixin broke stuff with low gears and 38s especially if you use a locker.

true, but if he learns how to drive his truck first, i bet you that 44 will last alot longer than you think. it all depends on his driving style, normal terrain he wheels on, ... you get the picture

I apologize if i came off as a pompous ass, but an SAS is serious mod. If he doesnt have a basic working knowledge of his truck, there is absolutely no reason he should even be considering an SAS

 

[meatheadz]

Well,,, this is actually my 3rd bronco. I only ride trails and some mud. The main reason for an SAS is that if im gona spend the money I might as well do it right the first time. Plus, I dont feel like dealing with alignment issues with TBB front end and anything above a 35 tire. I thought about going with a 6in. suspension lift and sticking with TBB, but by the time I add in all the goodies, the prices look darn near similiar, and why not spend the money only once.

 

[ocalabronco]

Well,,, this is actually my 3rd bronco.

 

[Txquadhunter]

ok, now that you have added better info, i can help you out.  here are some basics
Donor truck:  78/79 f-250 had 8 lug D44, so dont get confused

good luck

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Wrong the D60 was found in SOME F250's mainly the snowfighters. But they are there. Just gotta know how to ID them from the D44 HD

 

[ocalabronco]

Wrong the D60 was found in SOME F250's mainly the snowfighters.  But they are there.  Just gotta know how to ID them from the D44 HD

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but like my post implied, the majority of f-250's had the 8 lug 44. the snowfighter f-250's did have the 60, like you said. so, in actuality,we are both right

 

[texan79&96]

why do more work to run ttb springs when its easier to just run the 78-79 stuff and get long spring and a rate designed for the application?? seems like a waste of time. yeah you can hack the crossmember and get less lift but that things got enough stress on it already why mess with that too and weaken it? whats the point of doin all the work if its not gonna move....i assume your talkin about movin the bump stops to keep the axle from hittin the crossmember with less lift. i suggessted the fabritech kit because the kind of questions he was askin if he was gonna spend that much money on the ttb i figured it would be somethin to look into for him. also out of curiosity if with 9" of lift your driveshaft is inline with the pinion how far off are your steering knuckles from factory geometry?

 

[ocalabronco]

why do more work to run ttb springs when its easier to just run the 78-79 stuff and get long spring and a rate designed for the application?? seems like a waste of time. yeah you can hack the crossmember and get less lift but that things got enough stress on it already why mess with that too and weaken it? whats the point of doin all the work if its not gonna move....i assume your talkin about movin the bump stops to keep the axle from hittin the crossmember with less lift. i suggessted the fabritech kit because the kind of questions he was askin if he was gonna spend that much money on the ttb i figured it would be somethin to look into for him. also out of curiosity if with 9" of lift your driveshaft is inline with the pinion how far off are your steering knuckles from factory geometry?

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the caster angle is a few degrees off from factory, but its not a DD so the touchyness of the steering isnt a factor. if i decide to change it, 2* bushings would correct it. running the TTB springs isnt all that much more work. would i? no. i like the 78/79 stuff. but you can still run TTB springs in 78/9 buckets, and the pigtail of the TTB spring will in fact fit in the 78/79 cup. its just a better fit with TTB lowers. if you have the tools and materials, you or a machine shop could have the TTB lowers fabbed in less than a day. you dont have to necesarily hack the crossmember to get lower lift, it just reduces the chance of slamming the housing into the xmember. would i do it? nah, i like the height i've got. i know you suggested the fabritech kit because of the money issue, but think about it. if he were to spend LESS money doing the SAS himself without purchasing an overpriced kit, he could take the money he spent and use it for gears or lockers. so for the amount of money he would spend on the TTB, he could do the fabritech kit, then have to spend even more to re-gear and maybe lock the axle, OR he can do the kit and install himself by compiling parts that work together, save money versus the fabritech kit, AND still have money left over to do gears

 

[derrick36]

the caster angle is a few degrees off from factory, but its not a DD so the touchyness of the steering isnt a factor.  if i decide to change it, 2* bushings would correct it.  running the TTB springs isnt all that much more work. would i? no. i like the 78/79 stuff. but you can still run TTB springs in 78/9 buckets, and the pigtail of the TTB spring will in fact fit in the 78/79 cup. its just a better fit with TTB lowers.  if you have the tools and materials, you or a machine shop could have the TTB lowers fabbed in less than a day.  you dont have to necesarily hack the crossmember to get lower lift, it just reduces the chance of slamming the housing into the xmember.  would i do it? nah, i like the height i've got.  i know you suggested the fabritech kit because of the money issue, but think about it. if he were to spend LESS money doing the SAS himself without purchasing an overpriced kit, he could take the money he spent and use it for gears or lockers.  so for the amount of money he would spend on the TTB, he could do the fabritech kit, then have to spend even more to re-gear and maybe lock the axle, OR he can do the kit and install himself by compiling parts that work together, save money versus the fabritech kit, AND still have money left over to do gears

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I understand that the cost difference between fabricating a sas and stepping up and buying a kit from fabritech, makes fabricating yourself sound so much better, but I'm wondering if the kits from fabritech ARE poor quality, or is the reason they "****" based strictly on the fact that a person can perform a sas cheaper if they do it themselves? I can understand if the parts are made with poor craftsmanship or they are prone to breakage off road, but is there anyone out there basing their opinion off of fact and experiences?

 

[BLADE262US]

On the shock thing about the F250,s being eye mount on both ends I do not agree I scrapped out a 79 F250 still have the shock mounts from it stud on top and eye on bottom . And I still have an 83 F250 and the mounts look the same stud on top and eye on bottom . I dont think Ive ever seen a ford truck shock from factory that had eye on both ends for the front . If you have some please post pics and what they came off . I am working on another project and am getting close to that point of needing to figure out how I want to hang the front shocks . I know chevy had eyes on both ends but not ford untill the superduties /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[ocalabronco]

the 70's vintage f-250s still had the stud type as did early 80's, like you mentioned. the shock mounts that allow for the double eyelet shocks are early 90's to current.

 

[ocalabronco]

I understand that the cost difference between fabricating a sas and stepping up and buying a kit from fabritech, makes fabricating yourself sound so much better, but I'm wondering if the kits from fabritech ARE poor quality, or is the reason they "****" based strictly on the fact that a person can perform a sas cheaper if they do it themselves?  I can understand if the parts are made with poor craftsmanship or they are prone to breakage off road, but is there anyone out there basing their opinion off of fact and experiences?

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their kit does have its merits, as in being essentially 100% bolt on, but the engineering of it leaves much to be desired. IMO, the trac bar brackets as well as the RA brackets are sketchy. i do not like how the track bar mounts off of the crossmember and is so short. what this ultimately results in different cycles between the track bar and draglink and causes more bind as opposed to if the trac bar was mounted closer to being inline with the drag link and having near identical cycles. with the RA brackets, i like for my bolt holes to be actually within the bracket itself, not sticking out like fingers. considering the amount of stress that gets put on this area, it's just asking to fail at some point. The usage of the TTB buckets and shock mounts also mounts concern with the quality of the kit. I am not ******* the flex of TTB springs at all, but by using the stock bucket and stock shock mount, you severely limit your options of shock to choose from. so for someone who just wanted a show rig or a rig that would only be wheeled a few times a year, if that, the Fabritech kit would probably work. but for somebody that wheels their rig often and wants reliability, homebrew is the best way to go