rear window sfety

[bobstrat]

ok guys after letting this project slide for a while im finally addressing my rear window woes.

after jumping a wire to the motor to get it down, ive discovered no power at the tailgate. can someone please explain how exactly the tailgate safety works. i dont want to spend the afternoon chasing my power problem only to discover its the safety thing thats messed up.

 

[Seabronc]

It consists of a switch that is inside the left tailgate latch. Quite often that is the culprit and it can be bypassed. The function of the switch is to prevent putting the window up when the tail gate is open. I personally am smart enough not to do that unless I want to be able to move the window out of the way for servicing inside the tail gate . A lot of people, like me, who think they are so smart as to not close the gate with the window open, bypass the little sucker :-& #036; . Just as a caution, if you do join the by-passers club, be aware that the window needs support or be very careful when fully raising it for service purposes with the tail gate down, you could brake it <_< .

That being said, have you checked the voltage at the tailgate key switch? There are two sources for the 12V, the black wire with white stripe should be hot at all times and is feed by a separate fuse from the one that powers the driver switch. the two fuses involved are 12 for the black with white stripe and 14 for the driver switch. The diagram is attached. Another common problem is a break in the wires from front to back. Get a meter and do a bit of checking to determine where the problem really is.

Good luck,

>-

 

[bobstrat]

thanks for the fast response. i havent checked voltage at the key switch yet, im about to go fart with the truck now. i know im good at the fuse panel, checked that yesterday. i wasnt sure how the safety switch worked and had no idea how to test it. now i do, thanks again.

 

[redneckpunk]

is the wiring diagram the same on an 89 bronco

 

[Seabronc]

is the wiring diagram the same on an 89 bronco

Basically yes. The wire colors are the same, fuses are the same, plug connector numbering may be different, the ground connection between sides of the driver switch is external after 86. I'm not sure what year, but I believe that it is 87, they eliminated the connector behind the left tail light.

Good luck,

>-

 

[redneckpunk]

well when I got my truck the last guy pulled the wires and ran a jumper wire so to get it open you have to climb over the back seat and jump the wires. he said the switch went bad but if the passenger latch has a sensor then that could have been the problem. there is a gap on that side and I dont think it was making contact so the switch might still be good so I think I will have to rewire it.

 

[bobstrat]

well when I got my truck the last guy pulled the wires and ran a jumper wire so to get it open you have to climb over the back seat and jump the wires. he said the switch went bad but if the passenger latch has a sensor then that could have been the problem. there is a gap on that side and I dont think it was making contact so the switch might still be good so I think I will have to rewire it.

take the access panel off and its a little plunger like switch on the drivers side by the latch. its easy to bypass it. if you cant get the window down with the switch or the key, theres a good chance thats what it is. i suspected mine was going bad a while back cause i sometimes had to swing the spare off the tailgate to get the window to work. now i just need to fix the motor.

 

[miesk5]

yo!

Tailgate Window Switch Paddle Info & pic: "When the tailgate lock cylinder is turned, this paddle arm swings around & presses the appropriate switch button." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck)

Tailgate Window Switch Paddle Info & pic, Part 2; "When the tailgate lock cylinder is removed, the paddle is in the center." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Tailgate Window Switch Info & pic; "The switch is actually 2 SPDT microswitches which aren't designed to be separated from the harness. They're riveted to the casting that slips over the lock cylinder, with a cover plate on top." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Wiring Diagram, (wire color code is incorrect in diagram; the one labeled pink / light green should be purple / light green, thanks to Seabronc!) Source: by AutoZone (under license from Delmar Publishers, combo of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar, & Haynes)

 

[bobstrat]

now the update.

bypassed the safety switch. despite what some of my posts would lead you to believe, i felt i too, was smart enough not to close the tailgate with the window up. makes trouble shooting the rest of the circuit easier.

it wasnt the safety switch. unplug the lead coming out of the keyswitch going to the motor, test it 11.86 volts. huh? jump a wire from a spare battery into the motor side, motor runs. huh?

get the meter on them, each passes continuity checks.

both sides of that plug tested good yet when you plugged them together, nothing. so after spending way too much time figuring that out, at least everything in the "how to fix your rear window motor" post about repairing the plastic dowels in the motor went smoothly. for the most part. had a bit of a problem getting it all back together with the two nuts stacked on top of each other. the pieces that broke left a surface which the bottom nut just wouldnt sit flat. i ended up having to put the first three in and then start the gear back in. once it aligned with the bottom nuts there was just enough room to slide the second nut in. with a small flathead you can wiggle them into place. theres probably an easier way, im sure someone will post it.

i can now operate my window from inside or out, and i dont have to crawl in the backseat to get something out of the back. which is good cause the door always manages to close when i get back there. thanks seabronc for the wiring diagrams made it that much easier not having to figure out what was what. broncozone bailed me out.

 

[92fsb]

ok guys after letting this project slide for a while im finally addressing my rear window woes. after jumping a wire to the motor to get it down, ive discovered no power at the tailgate. can someone please explain how exactly the tailgate safety works. i dont want to spend the afternoon chasing my power problem only to discover its the safety thing thats messed up.

Hello i had the same problem try bypasing the plug on the wiring harness it is what was wrong with mine