Rear Window motor starts and then stops

[ajrose79]

Hi guys! My daughter recently purchased a 92 Ford Bronco to redo, the rear window will roll down at 3 inches and then stop, using the key or dash switch. I have installed a new window motor, and before bolting it in place I connected the motor the wires and it does turn/work using both the key and dash switch. However once bolted in place it goes down 3 or some inches and stops. I have the safety latch switch jumped at the moment. Is there something I am missing that once bolted in place it will not work?

 

[miesk5]

Yo ajrose79,
Welcome!
Read this by jowens1126
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...uestions-flame-free-zone/463337-tailgate.html
"...So the plan is tomorrow, I'm going to unload all the stuff I had filled the back with through the side doors (was a pain) and then I'll unbolt the window from the regulator arm channel guides and try to lower the glass inside the tailgate. Then I'll open the tailgate and remove the glass (being careful with the weather stripping) so I can pull out the regulator assembly. It's currently stuck --basically in the raised position (does this mean it's safe to handle without the motor attached (and glass)? I saw a thread that had a wire/cable holding them so they don't unload any spring force.
On 2nd thought, looking at the pictures --if I lower the glass with the regulator arms stuck in the up position, is the glass at risk of being scratched/scraped by the roller side of the arms since they are going to be stationary? Am I going to be able to pull the regulator guides from the arms after unbolting them from the glass? --because those arms are not going to give me any room (by going downward).

I'm guessing, but either that regulator gear mesh is messed up in the middle where you can't see it (because this thing is not moving even with prying). Or that the channels are really crudded up where you can't see them (as they are facing away from the access panel). After spraying them down with **** and prying the regulator arms --they moved about an inch or so and I didn't want to force the issue much more than that since there is glass being held back there!

lcoa rims so the budget is stretched a bit.[/quote]

Just remember, the arms are spring loaded, so I would definitely use an old coat hanger to wire them to the tailgate shell so they dont snap a finger off.

once the window is out, "With the regulator arms in this position (note the socket on the bolt in the regulator gear hole), all the mounting bolts can be accessed & removed.

But this regulator position DOES load the lift spring, so do NOT remove the motor from the regulator with the arms NOT attached to the glass AND in any position other than fully UP against the stop. If the arms are still attached to the glass, the motor can be removed with the arms in any position." ]


Check glass run for damage or debris. T "rollers" can go bad and even mess up the tracks if let go too long. The "rollers" in question are actually plastic, square blocks that slide back and forth in the tracks as the regulator (aka scissors) move them up/down.

●Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.
Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing. It also helps to retain alignment by reducing friction between the glass and the rubber weatherstrip.
miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate lgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

Apply dry (Teflon) **** to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry **** prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, **** it with multi purpose grease.
Are Glass rollers ok?
Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator
Tailgate could be mis-aligned, so visually check it.
Tailgate Alignment by BANNED MEMBER Steve83 @ https://web.archive.org/web/2017082...showthread.php?5224-Bronco-Tailgate-Alignment

●

●
Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1992.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom
Al

 

[ajrose79]

I decided to try something and if I hook a drill battery straight to window motor it goes up and down with no problems.

 

[lynchsg]

Bad ground connection, gummed up window tracks and dirty regulator mechanism pivots...

 

[johnnyreb]

I decided to try something and if I hook a drill battery straight to window motor it goes up and down with no problems.

So you now know the motor is good. That leaves the wire going to the switchs and switches. Try looking up from the bottom .Look for big wires. That goes to the motor. Their is a plug their. Check it for wire connection being dirty. tHEY RUN POWER FROM THE FRONT TO THE TAIL GATE. When you get the tailgate down. Check the wires that go into the tail gate. Some people will cut the wires and re-do the and its a bad place for a break in the wire. I just went through that.

 

[ajrose79]

I have, I was thinking of running a wire from the battery, with 2 relays, like the diagram I have seen posted numerous times. Has anyone ever done that.

 

[johnnyreb]

So you now know the motor is good. That leaves the wire going to the switchs and switches. Try looking up from the bottom .Look for big wires. That goes to the motor. Their is a plug their. Check it for wire connection being dirty. tHEY RUN POWER FROM THE FRONT TO THE TAIL GATE. When you get the tailgate down. Check the wires that go into the tail gate. Some people will cut the wires and re-do the and its a bad place for a break in the wire. I just went through that.

I done that to check both ways. One is for up and one is for down. That is also a good way to find out if the wire is getting power their. That,s also how I checked my back up lights .

I have, I was thinking of running a wire from the battery, with 2 relays, like the diagram I have seen posted numerous times. Has anyone ever done that.

 

[johnnyreb]

tHIS IS THE SWITCH OPERATED BUY THE KEY IN THE TAILGATE. Hope this helps you some. Look at the wires color,s closely. Tomorrow I,ll try and get some pictures of my wires and send them.

 

[ajrose79]

Yes, I have my entire harness out now, when the motor is not mounted the motor runs beautiful from the key switch and power switch on the dash, once mounted it moves only 3 inches, if connected to a drill battery the windows goes up and down beautiful.

 

[johnnyreb]

Yes, I have my entire harness out now, when the motor is not mounted the motor runs beautiful from the key switch and power switch on the dash, once mounted it moves only 3 inches, if connected to a drill battery the windows goes up and down beautiful.

Sounds like its in the runner where the glass travels. Try putting some --I think--silicone oil is what they use on the runners. Miesk will probably come in and tell the correct type of stuff to put in the window runner. I used oil and silicone and it is working good. I have replacement runner that will go into mine. You might also want to watch the arms attached to the motor. You know its not power.

 

[johnnyreb]

Yo ajrose79,
Welcome!
Read this by jowens1126
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...uestions-flame-free-zone/463337-tailgate.html
"...So the plan is tomorrow, I'm going to unload all the stuff I had filled the back with through the side doors (was a pain) and then I'll unbolt the window from the regulator arm channel guides and try to lower the glass inside the tailgate. Then I'll open the tailgate and remove the glass (being careful with the weather stripping) so I can pull out the regulator assembly. It's currently stuck --basically in the raised position (does this mean it's safe to handle without the motor attached (and glass)? I saw a thread that had a wire/cable holding them so they don't unload any spring force.
On 2nd thought, looking at the pictures --if I lower the glass with the regulator arms stuck in the up position, is the glass at risk of being scratched/scraped by the roller side of the arms since they are going to be stationary? Am I going to be able to pull the regulator guides from the arms after unbolting them from the glass? --because those arms are not going to give me any room (by going downward).

I'm guessing, but either that regulator gear mesh is messed up in the middle where you can't see it (because this thing is not moving even with prying). Or that the channels are really crudded up where you can't see them (as they are facing away from the access panel). After spraying them down with **** and prying the regulator arms --they moved about an inch or so and I didn't want to force the issue much more than that since there is glass being held back there!

lcoa rims so the budget is stretched a bit.

Just remember, the arms are spring loaded, so I would definitely use an old coat hanger to wire them to the tailgate shell so they dont snap a finger off.

once the window is out, "With the regulator arms in this position (note the socket on the bolt in the regulator gear hole), all the mounting bolts can be accessed & removed.

But this regulator position DOES load the lift spring, so do NOT remove the motor from the regulator with the arms NOT attached to the glass AND in any position other than fully UP against the stop. If the arms are still attached to the glass, the motor can be removed with the arms in any position." ]

View attachment 28473
Check glass run for damage or debris. T "rollers" can go bad and even mess up the tracks if let go too long. The "rollers" in question are actually plastic, square blocks that slide back and forth in the tracks as the regulator (aka scissors) move them up/down.

●Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.
Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing. It also helps to retain alignment by reducing friction between the glass and the rubber weatherstrip.
miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.

Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate lgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

Apply dry (Teflon) **** to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry **** prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides

Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, **** it with multi purpose grease.
Are Glass rollers ok?
Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator
Tailgate could be mis-aligned, so visually check it.
Tailgate Alignment by BANNED MEMBER Steve83 @ https://web.archive.org/web/2017082...showthread.php?5224-Bronco-Tailgate-Alignment

●

●
Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1992.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom
Al
[/QUOTE]
IF this is the picture of your tailgate---it looks like its been bent . Look at the upper part of the picture. Right above the ratchet and across. That could be your problem. **** the picture up and it looks bent.