Radiators

[George Coleman]

I would like to know what Radiator that I could get to replace my stock unit . I am getting blowout of water on the passengerside of the rad. and when riding at Hyw. speed the temp gauge moves up and down when i stop and look under the hood i have water every were it seems to be coming out of the side tank like the o-ring is bad. My Bronco is a 96/XLT w/AC, Towing, AT, 5.8 liter New owner!!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I would like to know what Radiator that I could get to replace my stock unit . I am getting blowout of water on the passengerside of the rad. and when riding at Hyw. speed the temp gauge moves up and down when i stop and look under the hood i have water every were it seems to be coming out of the side tank like the o-ring is bad. My Bronco is a 96/XLT w/AC, Towing, AT, 5.8 liter New owner!!

Hi George,

Welcome to BroncoZone!

Not long ago I had a radiator leak, not as bad as your's.

I did start a thread on it, and I posted a solution of what worked for me.

I hope this works for you.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...ost&p=66172

Good luck

joe

BTW.. I don't know what O ring you are talking about, and I don't have my truck here to take a look.

Is it possible to just replace the ring?

 

[Justshootme84]

I kn ow on my 84 Bronco 351W, a rad from an F-250 fit right in where the stock one sat. Might check on fitment for your 96, and get a bigger rad that way. Moline makes a new one for around $180-$200. i would flush the coolant system and replace the thermostat whenever replacing the rad, JSM84

 

[George Coleman]

Thanks for the input, I have ordered a all copper /brass rad, with 4 rows, brass tanks this should work, The o-ring i talked about is the way the stock rads are put together, the core in the middle alum. and the tanks are attached on each side with a o-ring seal on the tanks, they seem to go bad alot!!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I kn ow on my 84 Bronco 351W, a rad from an F-250 fit right in where the stock one sat. Might check on fitment for your 96, and get a bigger rad that way. Moline makes a new one for around $180-$200. i would flush the coolant system and replace the thermostat whenever replacing the rad, JSM84

When I was having an issue with mine, I went to a parts store, where I was told that the heavy duty and I guess standard radiators were not interchangeable. While I don't doubt that they both fit, one would probably have to make sure that they got the mounting brackets for a heavy duty cooling radiator if their rig was not already set up with a heavy duty cooling system.

 

[Justshootme84]

When I was having an issue with mine, I went to a parts store, where I was told that the heavy duty and I guess standard radiators were not interchangeable. While I don't doubt that they both fit, one would probably have to make sure that they got the mounting brackets for a heavy duty cooling radiator if their rig was not already set up with a heavy duty cooling system.

That's partially true, depending on differences in engines and options like A/C between mdoels for the same year. The 84 F-250 rad was a direct fit for the stock 84 in my Bronco. Same engine and C-6 tranny, same core support and body style, and same mounting setup. I'm still using that rad for my 460, but needed to change the upper rad hose to fit the water neck on the 460 intake. While the spout on the rad was the same as the original one for the 351W in the Bronco and the F-250, the end at the intake neck was bigger. So on the 96 Bronco, a rad from a 96 F-250 with the same E40D auto should bolt right in. And in general, a double-core rad will be more effective at cooling than a single-core. JSM84

 

[shift1313]

just as a note these radiators with the plastic end caps start leaking because of the clips usually and not the orings. ford used 3 different materials for some odd reason. Anyways its probably the easiest radiator to clean as well by pulling the endtanks off. for probably $40-$60 you could have any rad shop rod the thing and put new orings and clips on your endtanks. you would probably get another 20 years out of it

 

[miesk5]

Prob w/installing a "HD" (as that came w/tow package) rad in-place of a "STD" OEM unit is the thickness of the HD; usually, the fan shroud has to be removed such as described by Tim C

Modine 4 Row thickness difference vs OEM in an 89

Source: by Tim C option is to swap in an electric fan.

Modine is rated very high...they merged w/Transpro, so here is the new line-up:

http://webbase.transpro.com/radcat/

NAPA etc. can get it for you...or any rad shop.

shift; good info!

Larry C wrote an article on repairing the plastic end caps;

 

[George Coleman]

I have put in a 4row Copper/ brass rad. it worked great! I got it at Advance Auto $270 the best price and I priced them from 475 and down. It is amazing that the when the temp. is right the Bronco runs better. The rad was a bolt in no problems, the original rad was a 4row alum./ plastic, I may try to repair it and use it for a backup. Thanks for all the input >

 

[walnuts75]

just as a note these radiators with the plastic end caps start leaking because of the clips usually and not the orings. ford used 3 different materials for some odd reason. Anyways its probably the easiest radiator to clean as well by pulling the endtanks off. for probably $40-$60 you could have any rad shop rod the thing and put new orings and clips on your endtanks. you would probably get another 20 years out of it

That's what I did with my radiator. They'll flush the crap out of it too. It is leak free and my Bronco runs a lot cooler. The temperature gauge used to get to the "O" in "NORMAL" but now it only gets halfway between the line and the "N." It was a lot cheaper than buying a new radiator.