Order of projects

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scubachris

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Well to start off, I am pretty excited. I just had my transfer case rebuilt, and my truck is running well. It is a daily driver,and I truck I want to do camping and scuba trips in. I am planning on changing the carb to a 4 bbl, rebuilding tranny( little slippage and oil leak), and a new paint job( either the same color or the midnight blue/white combo). Some engine gaskets need to be replaced, but I was wondering if I shouldn't rebuild the motor while it is out. How would I know if it needs to be rebuilt? While the engine is out, should I rewire the engine compartment? Does anyone make a rewiring kit for a 84 Bronco? I want to do this right, but I don't want to spend unnecessary money that I could spend on something else. Any suggestions on what to do while the engine is out. Thanks for the help.

Chris

1984 302

 

Seabronc

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RE: wiring kit

Why do you need to rewire? Are you having trouble with anything? Is it in bad condition?

Re: engine rebuild

Do you know the history of the engine? If you can afford to do it now and you have it out, this would be the time to do it. Might as well do the trany also.

Save painting for the end. While the engine is out would also be a good time for painting, clean up the chassis and paint it also.

Good luck,

peace.gif


 
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scubachris

scubachris

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the wiring is ok in some places, but it has a brittle touch to it. Some places have electrical tap around it. I figured it would be easier to do it with the engine out, but I am having trouble finding the easy installation harness. I have never had any electrical problems. My clock even worked till I tried to switch it to daylight savings time.

I have no clue on the history of the engine, at first I was going to rebuild it. Then my mechanic friend said do a compression test, if it passed, just change the gaskets, etc. The thing is, I do have the money to get my tranny, and engine rebuilt. I just hate part changing. It does leak more oil than I am comfortable with. I don't have the tools to do a complete engine over haul, so I would pay someone to do it. I have even thought about putting a new engine in. I work at a parts store, so I can get discounts on both labor, and obviously parts, but I would rather keep my Ford engine.

It isn't going to get painted till the last thing. Although I am putting window tint on. Evidently Ford only used one hamster instead of two, because it never cools off.

Once again I appreciate the help.

 

Seabronc

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How about just replacing the brittle wires and those that have tape on them? Use auto grade wire, it has more strands than standard electrical wire which makes it more tolerant to flexing. I have built a lot of my own harnesses, all that is actually necessary is to b e well organized, plan it out ahead of time and make up a color code conversion chart so you know what is what, labels on the ends also is a good thing to do. There are places that make harnesses, but they are not always directed toward a particular vehicle. I don't know of anyone who makes ones intended for Fords, GM yes, but not Fords. The reason being is that Ford does not support the aftermarket business like GM does and will not provide color codes. You can figure out the color codes by using an EVTM and if you don't already ave one, do yourself a favor and get one for your year truck. It is one of the best trouble shooting guides you could own. Also, if you can find a complete set of shop manuals treat the expense as an investment in your truck, they are invaluable.

a couple of links Shop Manual set http://cgi.ebay.com/1984-FORD-BRONCO-F-E-150-350-TRUCK-FACTORY-SHOP-MANUALS-/360384003820?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e88f7eec EVTM http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-F-150-350-Bronco-Wiring-Electrical-Manual-EVTM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564598a626QQitemZ370534819366QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

As far as an engine goes a re-manufactured long block is better than a rebuild as long as it is a real reman. A re-manufactured engine restores all the parts to the original specifications which is not the case with a rebuild. Look around at different engine builders and get an idea and what they warranty. If you work for one of the large parts chains, like Auto Zone, Advances, etc. don't take this as an insult, but I would not get one through them, I'd go directly to a re-manufacturer. Just do a Google search on re-manufactured ford engines.

Good luck,

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Bully Bob

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Agree w/Seabronc & your mech. friend...

"Then my mechanic friend said do a compression test, if it passed, just change the gaskets, etc"

No need to pull an eng. with good life still in it.

Compression & leak-down test first. (Vac. leak test is good also)

Trannie may just need serv. & adj.

Most leaks can be fixed, after a good cleaning, so the actual source can be spotted.

 
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scubachris

scubachris

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I'll do the test first, and worry about the rest later. I know I need to change the vac lines, and the carb. Thanks

 

Bully Bob

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IMHO., I wouldn't be in a hurry to do any carb. mods. A 4brl would likely req. computer & exhaust (prob. headers) changes to get any gain. (& poss. cam)

An eng. can only pull in so much air/fuel mix. :-B You might be better served freshening your carb.

There's many Ford Engine websites for doing that homework.

 
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scubachris

scubachris

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I don't have a choice. The choke where my vacuum hooks up is broken. I can't order another part( at least that I know off). Currently my choke is being held open with bailing wire. And FYI I value all opinions. My main goal is to have a truck that I can travel in. Throw my camping gear and scuba gear in. Any extra money I can save is awesome.

 
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scubachris

scubachris

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here you go

i googled it for you
Thanks, I ordered my carb, but they are out of stock. I will try back next week or find another company. What I have accomplished so far is to change the fuel pump which was causing my oil leak. While I had the pump off I changed my sending unit. Didn't really need to, but it was starting to get a little cranky. Helped my buddy change my valve covers. So most of my leaks are fixed except for the rear main seal. Which will be taken care of after finals.

Next step for me is to clean the undercarriage of years of oil, change shocks, and front end linkage. Noticing a lot more sway since going back to original size tires, and maybe adjust the nut on the steering box. Changing the seal on my rear end, and putting fresh oil. Forgot to mention change carb, and redo vacuum lines.

@Seabronc.....I ordered all the manuals online, pretty excited about it. I didn't expect them to be that detailed. Thanks for the tip.

 

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