One Loud Click

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Wavey Davey

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Hey there BZ community. Been following along for a while, but first post here.

I've had my 1996 XLT 5.8 with 130,000 miles (currently) as a daily driver in Toronto for the last 3 years with not too, too much issue.

A recent thing that is periodically getting worse...

-When I try to start, I'm getting 1 loud click coming from the starter area​
-for a while I'd just try a handful of times and it would eventually turnover, but it's getting worse​
-battery is new​
-I get the same click (or sometimes start) when I bridge the terminals on the relay​
-also, I'm pretty sure I saw sparks appear in the starter area when I was bridging the terminals today​
Does this sound like the starter or maybe or battery cables/ground? To me, cables are all looking good.​
Sorry, I know this topics been covered a lot, hoping my info is specific enough for an obvious answer.​
 

Tiha

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That is usually a bad starter.

I believe the new starters come with a small 'repair" wire for the solenoid. I suppose it is possible that is your only problem.
 

miesk5

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Yo Wavey Davey,
Welcome and congrats on acquiring the very best year Big Bronco known to men, women, children and canines! BTW, I too have a 96!
AsTiha advised and tap the starter motor with a hammer and try starting the engine again.


ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.

Here's the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual partial

96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ Owner Manuals | fleet.ford.com

96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...sovers/bronco

96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ 1983 Ford Bronco 96 EB Bronco Brochures pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

See 96 Chassis & Engine Service Manuals @ 1996 Ford Truck Service Manuals - Google Drive
On pop-up, Click "Drive"

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom!

See my mostly recovered site by my friend schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO It contains boo-koo component repairs, installation & parts sources.
Al
 

paul rondelli

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YUP ... it is the starter


By jumping the relay and provided power directly to the starter .... you by-pass all the other nonsense in the ignition system that could cause the issue.

The only other thing it could be is wiring from the relay to the starter or a ground at the starter.
 

L\Bronco

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Just a point, if you saw sparks at the starter, check for a loose nut on the B+ wire at the solenoid, and the bolts that mount the starter to the engine first.
Hope that helps
Cheers
 
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Motech

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I'm pretty sure I saw sparks appear in the starter area when I was bridging the terminals today

That would be a poopy connection down at the starter primary cable. Could be loose, likely corroded, maybe shot. Chances are you can clean it up with a steel brush, reattach it and be good again.

BUT...
That's also classic symptom of starter failure. If your cable service doesn't fix it, probably starter time.
 
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Since this is a 2 wire (more modern gear reduction) starter, you may have one of two problems:

(1) defective starter,
(2) bad 12V main wire from battery+ to big lug on starter solenoid/poor connections at either point.

Testing with a multimeter, set to DCV and first test to see what your standby battery voltage at terminals is with key on.
prob 11.5-12.0V. let's say it's 12v. this is your standby voltage, it should not deviate much from it's standby voltage for this test.

Find a helper/chock wheels/set e-brake/put it in park/crawl under with meter to starter. Meter between starter casing and big wire going to starter solenoid. it should show your noted standby voltage, whatever was noted earlier.

if you see your noted standby voltage, have your helper try to start. if it stays near your noted voltage and you hear the starter make a loud click, the starter is bad. The solenoid is engaging, (the loud click) meaning you have the start input from the key switch, and the starter has adequate return path to Bat-

if it shows voltage and when your helper attempts to start it goes low or to near zero ensure you have good connection on your big wire from battery+ to the big lug on the starter's solenoid.

There's a few more possibilities, but those are the likely ones for 'loud click at the starter'
 
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Wavey Davey

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Alrighty, sorry to leave you guys hanging, took me a minute to get this going.

I ended up popping in a new starter / cables...and it fired right up.

When removing the starter I did notice the large cable didn't have the best connection at the solenoid. Was rusted, corroded, and loose. So likely the problem? Didn't really seem worth trying to clean it up, since I already had the new part.

Thanks so much everyone, super helpful!
 

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