Key Does Not Disengage

[Wavey Davey]

Hey there fellas, I've got through a few threads where similar issues we're occurring. Just wanted to see if my symptoms rang as 100% one way or another.
My vehicle is an automatic 1996 XLT 5.8 with 130,000 miles. Been driving this for 3 years and have always had the ability to remove the key from the lock cylinder while the engine was running, or start it up without the key, if not all the way back in the lock position. Never really thought anything of it.
The other day while starting up, it felt like the key over rotated. When I got to where I was going, she wouldn't shut down. Turning the key back, nothing would engage...it's just loose.
I ended up pulling a relay for the fuel pump and disconnecting the battery to shut it down.

So currently, it still starts from the key (but it does not spring back, have to manually nudge it), but I'm unable to disengage with the key.

I'm hopeful this is just a lock cylinder replacement...pulling apart the steering column looks like a mission.

Any advice is greatly appreciated...

THANK YOU

 

[L\Bronco]

Hey there fellas, I've got through a few threads where similar issues we're occurring. Just wanted to see if my symptoms rang as 100% one way or another.
My vehicle is an automatic 1996 XLT 5.8 with 130,000 miles. Been driving this for 3 years and have always had the ability to remove the key from the lock cylinder while the engine was running, or start it up without the key, if not all the way back in the lock position. Never really thought anything of it.
The other day while starting up, it felt like the key over rotated. When I got to where I was going, she wouldn't shut down. Turning the key back, nothing would engage...it's just loose.
I ended up pulling a relay for the fuel pump and disconnecting the battery to shut it down.

So currently, it still starts from the key (but it does not spring back, have to manually nudge it), but I'm unable to disengage with the key.

I'm hopeful this is just a lock cylinder replacement...pulling apart the steering column looks like a mission.

Any advice is greatly appreciated...

THANK YOU

Hey Wavey
You definitely need a lock cylinder. You should never be able to remove a key anywhere but the lock position. The lock is worn out. Just turn it to the run position and use a small pick through the hole under the area where the lock is and push in the locking pin. The lock should pull out easily. Slide the new one in in the run position and it will lock in place once you turn it.
The lock is likely the cause of all of your issues, however, if it still won't return after the lock replacement, you will need the ignition switch as well. This is on the topside of the column under the dash. No column disassembly required, just 2 11mm (7\16") nuts hold it down. It is adjustable so make sure it is positioned correctly.
Hope that helps
Cheers

 

[miesk5]

Yo Davey,8

Bad vision day here, again, hopefully I hope the following addresses the issue.
The ignition switch, mounted inside column's shroud is where the spring-back is provided, but actuator(s) is often damaged.. Ensure switch is securely mounted first.

Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient **** on actuator
binding ignition switch


Switch Removal & Installation in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty, F-Super Duty Motorhome and Bronco Workshop Manual;

"... Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes. Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in)..."

 

[Motech]

Hate to be the one to say this, but I think your problem is going to be much deeper than just your lock cylinder. I'm praying for you, that you replace the lock cylinder and that fixes it. It should fix the key not coming out when you turn it, but The return part of it is likely going to be a broken actuator deep down into the column.

This modular column is much different than the Saginaw style that we were talking about in the other thread. This one is like one big bionic, robotic assembly that needs to be removed and disassembled on the bench to fix this problem. It's a mothertucker too!

Here's an exploded view. The parts that are going to be broken are probably 30 and 31.



I'm a professional, and other shop owners send these columns over to me when they have this problem. I've done quite a few of them, though admittedly not in the last 3 years.

That said, if you do need the plastic actuators buried way down deep, trying to talk you through it on a forum is going to be one great big exercise in futility. I would recommend you find a professional in your area who is very practiced at this and let them have at it.

Fingers crossed though, hoping your lock cylinder fixes it!

 

[johnnyreb]

Hate to be the one to say this, but I think your problem is going to be much deeper than just your lock cylinder. I'm praying for you, that you replace the lock cylinder and that fixes it. It should fix the key not coming out when you turn it, but The return part of it is likely going to be a broken actuator deep down into the column.

This modular column is much different than the Saginaw style that we were talking about in the other thread. This one is like one big bionic, robotic assembly that needs to be removed and disassembled on the bench to fix this problem. It's a mothertucker too!

Here's an exploded view. The parts that are going to be broken are probably 30 and 31.

View attachment 31582

I'm a professional, and other shop owners send these columns over to me when they have this problem. I've done quite a few of them, though admittedly not in the last 3 years.

That said, if you do need the plastic actuators buried way down deep, trying to talk you through it on a forum is going to be one great big exercise in futility. I would recommend you find a professional in your area who is very practiced at this and let them have at it.

Fingers crossed though, hoping your lock cylinder fixes it!

 

[johnnyreb]

Hey Motech, you sound like you been through it too. I tore the one apart in my regal. It had a short in it and it took me TWO YEARS to get it back together. I got so mad---I ordered a used column from a junkyard in Oklohoma. The night my cousin and I got it fixed. He said you,ll probably get it tomorrow and what will you do with it? I told him I sale it for $200 what I paid for it not counting postage. I got it the next day and its setting out in the building, In case I need it.haha They are hard to work on.