Noob Here - Few Questions

[mcat]

2 MONTH UPDATE:

I thought I would give an update on the condition of my Bronco after a few months and a few thousand miles. In a word - great!

The more I drive her the better she runs I swear. The power steering pump still whines but I just ignore it. She was idling rough at first but now she idles pretty smooth except for an occasional bump.  I've taken her up the canyon a few times at both highway speeds and around 40 (Parley's Canyon and Big and Little Cottonwood) and once she get's going she runs great, no downshifting or drag. 

I have not gone above 75mph as she seems happiest between 65 and 75. I had to get used to the steering being a little looser but other than that she feels as solid at 70 as she does at 35. I can't wait for the first snowfall so I can she how she does. 

One question I had for Bronco drivers who do lot's of snow driving is how often do you find yourself using four wheel drive? I live on a steep hill and in the winter if I have to drive up my hill before the snowplows it can be quite slippery. Just curious.

The only maintenance I've done so far it a couple of cans of Sea Foam in the gas tank which seemed to help with the rough idle but it could just be coincidence. 

The only thing that stops me from driving her 7 days a week is the gas mileage. It's funny cause my other car is  Lexus 400H Hybrid which gets about 26mpg and has plenty of power, but I just like driving the Bronco better. 

Anyway thanks to everyone who answered my questions. I am still working on the rust underneath but with winter coming I may have to wait until spring. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[wileec]

First question is does your truck have auto or manual hubs. Mine has manual and also a manual Tcase (no push button), I find that when the snow starts flying I lock in the hus and switch into and out of 4x4 almost as much as I change gears. No harm in using it when you feel like it will help and not using it when there are clearer sections. I do nnot know about SLC but the Denver area can change a lot with in just a few blocks or hours.

 

[miesk5]

yo M,

For snow/slippery roads & heavy rain, I leave the manual locking hubs Locked and then shift into 4H as needed.  Some MPG loss & some wear will occur on the 4wd sys's parts & U- joints with more noise, but acceptable as compared to safety

This is included in;

Also, WARN advises, To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."

Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..."
Source: by Warn®
 

 

[nelbur]

Using 4wd on snowy roads can get a bit exciting if you make sharp corners.   Since there is no center diff like you have in  All wheel drive, 4wd tends to swing wide in a sharp turn, like at an intersection of two two lane roads.   If I am going to make such a turn I move the shifter to 2wd before I make the turn, especially if there is a car stopped at the intersection that you don't want to hit.   I tend to be in and out of 4wd because unless you need the traction, the Bronco tracks better in 2wd.

PS the work on the intake manifold was likely to repair an oil leak due to a bad gasket.   A fairly common problem.

 

[Seabronc]

One question I had for Bronco drivers who do lot's of snow driving is how often do you find yourself using four wheel drive? I live on a steep hill and in the winter if I have to drive up my hill before the snowplows it can be quite slippery. Just curious.

The only thing that stops me from driving her 7 days a week is the gas mileage. It's funny cause my other car is  Lexus 400H Hybrid which gets about 26mpg and has plenty of power, but I just like driving the Bronco better. 

I would use 4x4 on snow covered slopes.  You will probably find that the rear end wants to be in front when you use the brakes in thse conditions, especially slopes going down hill.  Generally this is caused by the rear brakes getting out of adjustment and the font brakes being more effective than the rear.  I found that no matter how well I adjusted the rear brakes, they didn't seem to want to stay that way.  Not a problem on dry surfaces but it can get real exciting in slippery conditions.

Hmmmm, Lexus 26 MPG, is that city or highway?  My 2001 Buick Park Avenue gets 29 highway.

Just a comment on the Saginaw Pump.  If you decide to do one, that will make your steering more sensitive.  On mine I can steer with one finger while standing still on the pavement. It took a little while for me to get used to it steering like a sports car instead of a truck. If you do do it, the simpelest conversion is to get the system off an E250 van.  Take everything pump, mounting bracket, and high pressure hose, or have a hose made up for it.  I made up my own HP hose, pictures attached.  If you have sloppy steering look into that first.

Good luck,

>-

 

[mcat]

Thanks for the replies. I have the auto hubs and my understanding is I can just shift on the fly.  I am going to try a few practice runs before I find myself driving in a snowstorm.   My guess is I will spend most of the winter in 2 wheel drive except when I'm driving in snowstorm or the plows haven't been out yet. 

Denver sounds a lot like our typical snow storms.  Conditions can change drastically within a 25 mile radius. I live at about 4600 feet in elevation but driving up to Alta or Snowbird I can be at 8,000 feet in 25 minutes. (One reason I love Utah!)

I had an interesting experience last week with my tires.  I found a big ole ***** in the back tire and since I have Big O Big Foots I headed to the nearest Big O Tire store where they promptly fixed it for free.  

The tire guy asked me if I was aware that my tires were probably ten years and that they don't make that version any more. I was surprised since they look practically new.

Anyone see a problem with that if they appear to be in good shape? Could they be rotting from the inside?


 
Thanks for your input!

 

[Bully Bob]

"Could they be rotting from the inside?"

Are you changing the air in the tires regularly...? ...... Just kidding...!! /

Tire stores are there to sell tires........., run those tires 'til you can't stand them anymore..!

---The exception would be if you're runn'n hi-speed freeways with the family aboard. ---

(IMHO stay away fr. "BIG-O" when new tires are due.)

Long/short

You'll find "slowing/stopping" is more controlable in 4x4 on slick surfaces.

"Going" can be tough no matter how many tires are spinning. Especially uphill.

 

[mcat]

Hmmmm, Lexus 26 MPG, is that city or highway?  My 2001 Buick Park Avenue gets 29 highway.

Just a comment on the Saginaw Pump.  If you decide to do one, that will make your steering more sensitive.  On mine I can steer with one finger while standing still on the pavement. It took a little while for me to get used to it steering like a sports car instead of a truck. If you do do it, the simpelest conversion is to get the system off an E250 van.  Take everything pump, mounting bracket, and high pressure hose, or have a hose made up for it.  I made up my own HP hose, pictures attached.  If you have sloppy steering look into that first.

Good luck,

>-

BTW the 26 mpg on the Lexus is combined which for me is about 50-50.

I have learned to live with the noisy power steering pump until it actually goes out, then I am going to look for the Saginaw. I'm trying to resist replacing things until they actually wear out

 

[miesk5]

yo, I conditions where some parts of road are snow covered or icy such as where it is shaded by tall pines, etc. most of us lock the hubs if equipped w/manual hubs  and shift into & out of 4x4 h as nec.; if auto hubs, just shift into 4x4H as nec.

Do NOT use 4x4 on dry surface, use it only on low-traction surfaces.

Also WARN advises

"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
 

The intake man R & R was prob due to gasket (vacuum leak) or to clean carbon deposits