My rear diff fill plug is stuck and *****

[Pasadenabronc]

I cant be the only one. No clue how much, if any, oil is in there.......wanted to top it off. Well, it rounded instantly. This is the stock rear end. Im really stumped here!

Tried:
* hammering a chisel into the hole, and twistibg with a large wrench. No dice
* chselling a notch in the tiny bit of a lip on the bolt, attempt to use a flat driver and hammer it cclockwise. Soft metal....no chance

Last shot- bought star driver sockets. Will jammer a larger one in and hit it with the ompact driver.

Im guessing you really can NOT heat the bolt up right? I mean, the pumpkin is full of oil. ??

 

[Skitter302]

weld in a 3" socket extension. The heat of the weld will lep the threads and you'll have something to get a driver onto.

 

[Pasadenabronc]

Im guessing welding is the only option besides ripping the entire front cover off, drill out and retap. .....i dont want to try that. 99.9999999% chance at least one of the nuts holding the cover on will round too. Im liked f×÷+ed on this one.

 

[Tiha]

If there is enough left to grab then you can still heat it with a small propane torch. Heat around the plug, not the plug itself.

I have used air hammers, if you have one.

And yes, worse case you will have to drill it and maybe use an easy out. But you have to pull the center section to clean the metal and that means pulling axles.

Welding is a great option as it adds heat as well if that is possible for you.

 

[johnnyreb]

I cant be the only one. No clue how much, if any, oil is in there.......wanted to top it off. Well, it rounded instantly. This is the stock rear end. Im really stumped here!

Tried:
* hammering a chisel into the hole, and twistibg with a large wrench. No dice
* chselling a notch in the tiny bit of a lip on the bolt, attempt to use a flat driver and hammer it cclockwise. Soft metal....no chance

Last shot- bought star driver sockets. Will jammer a larger one in and hit it with the ompact driver.

Im guessing you really can NOT heat the bolt up right? I mean, the pumpkin is full of oil. ??

I don,t think I would heat it up. Instead try putting a set of vise grips on it tight. So you will have someething to wedge it againsy . Have someone turn it as you peck on it with a hammer. Plus right near that pumpkin is your GAS TANK. Don,t use any flame around or near it. DO NOT USE ANY TORCH IN THAT AREA. GAS IN VERY FLAMEABLE AND DANGEREOUS.

 

[johnnyreb]

I don,t think I would heat it up. Instead try putting a set of vise grips on it tight. So you will have someething to wedge it againsy . Have someone turn it as you peck on it with a hammer. Plus right near that pumpkin is your GAS TANK. Don,t use any flame around or near it. DO NOT USE ANY TORCH IN THAT AREA. GAS IN VERY FLAMEABLE AND DANGEREOUS.If you have the rear-end out. You might take the front -end off and drain it,but their would still be some oil in it. That might catch on fire. Try the vise grip method. It has worked for alot of people. Good luck and be careful-remeber NO FLAMES AROUND OR NEAR ANY GAS

 

[Pasadenabronc]

Thx for replies. I dont have a welder, and, theres no meat to weld something to. TOALLY spun round now. I hammered a large star but all the way in. It was real snug. Hit ut with impact wrench it spun even that. Bolt didnt move. Total disaster. What next?

 

[Pasadenabronc]

 

[Seabee1966/1994]

Since this third member probably has never had anything done to it, I personally would unbolt the assembly and drain out the third member. You will be surprised at the gunk of 40/50 years. I would never just add oil to any of the drive train without draining the old. With the cover off you can heat up the drain plug. I would also replace w/plumbing plugs(ones that have a square sticking out). In fact I am in the process of going through all my drive train. Use a good gear oil (85-140), I purchased on line from Currie. Use 75-90 for the transfer case, I bought mine from Red Line, also on line. It pays in the long run to use the best!! Also check to see if you have a Trac Lok devise, you will need an additive, the Currie oil has this in their gear oil already. These broncos test our patience, just step back and take your time!!

 

[Seabee1966/1994]

Just a little add on, I have a 1975 Bronco Ranger, my 23rd. EB, I use to have a business repairing EB's in the 70's. I am now 75 yrs. old and have Bronco in my blood! From what I also see in the pic after making larger, is some threads on the plug. You also might be able to put a pipe wrench 18" or larger w/ a pipe slid onto the handle. This is after wire brushing w/your drill and using a good rust breaker. You'll get it, just a little PATIENCE!!!

 

[Pasadenabronc]

Just a little add on, I have a 1975 Bronco Ranger, my 23rd. EB, I use to have a business repairing EB's in the 70's. I am now 75 yrs. old and have Bronco in my blood! From what I also see in the pic after making larger, is some threads on the plug. You also might be able to put a pipe wrench 18" or larger w/ a pipe slid onto the handle. This is after wire brushing w/your drill and using a good rust breaker. You'll get it, just a little PATIENCE!!!

Thank you seabee. How much trouble is taking it all apart. Ive never involved myself in rear ends so dont really know my way around. I know if I have the 3rd member off (not even certain what that is.....the front cover on the pumpkin?) I could do whatever i want including drill, tap and put proper plug in. But.....what am I really getting myself into by unbolting that thing, not really knowing wth im doing? Plus, ill bet $1 at least one of those nuts are not coming loose either.

 

[Seabee1966/1994]

View attachment 28047

Thank you seabee. How much trouble is taking it all apart. Ive never involved myself in rear ends so dont really know my way around. I know if I have the 3rd member off (not even certain what that is.....the front cover on the pumpkin?) I could do whatever i want including drill, tap and put proper plug in. But.....what am I really getting myself into by unbolting that thing, not really knowing wth im doing? Plus, ill bet $1 at least one of those nuts are not coming loose either.

First you will need to order from Toms Offroad or other supplier a gasket set and seals for the third member(rear end) and ask to talk to one of their mechanics (Toms has some good mechanics that can walk you through the process. I have at times have asked a question or two. To start w/you will need to pull the axles bearings and seals. This might be more then you would want to get into! But the joy of having an older rig like this is that you can work on it w/just a few tools, most obtainable from places like Auto Zone. Doing things like this is called "wrenching", but maybe this might be more than you want to do. I would then advise you to look on line for a repair shop. Just remember they don't call them Early Broncos for nothing, they are a constant work in progress. I've been working on this 1975 for a year off & on. There are many websites that you can go to and see how to do just about anything on the early Bronco. One on the best sites that I like to see is (Jason & Joni Builds), in fact they have a unit on front and rear tear down. They are rebuilding a 1966 Bronco from the ground up, they have about 40 series for you to watch.

 

[Pasadenabronc]

First you will need to order from Toms Offroad or other supplier a gasket set and seals for the third member(rear end) and ask to talk to one of their mechanics (Toms has some good mechanics that can walk you through the process. I have at times have asked a question or two. To start w/you will need to pull the axles bearings and seals. This might be more then you would want to get into! But the joy of having an older rig like this is that you can work on it w/just a few tools, most obtainable from places like Auto Zone. Doing things like this is called "wrenching", but maybe this might be more than you want to do. I would then advise you to look on line for a repair shop. Just remember they don't call them Early Broncos for nothing, they are a constant work in progress. I've been working on this 1975 for a year off & on.

Thx again. I will. But that will be after paint.

Update- I got it out. I POUNDED a T60 torx in.....and again tried the impact. It held and after 10 or so seobds.....the plug spun out. !!

 

[Pasadenabronc]

Btw, Im actually an "old member" from 2003. I lost my user name and pw so just reregistered.

 

[johnnyreb]

Glad you got it out.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Pasadenabronc,
Contact site owner Shaggy, he may be able to reinstate you under former user name with post count.
@Shaggy

 

[Tiha]

Awesome job

 

[johnnyreb]

Thx again. I will. But that will be after paint.

Update- I got it out. I POUNDED a T60 torx in.....and again tried the impact. It held and after 10 or so seobds.....the plug spun out. !!

Now that you got it out. What you can do to save yourself and others the trouble. Take the plug and get a longer bolt==about 1-3 inches longer .With a big head--about 5/8 or bigger. Put a tap on it. Run it down the same as the plug went. ***** it it and run the tap down and snug it up. THE NEXT TIME you won,t have alot of trouble getting it out.

 

[chrlsful]

I all ways use the mig as last step (as it all ways wrks). U can drive to a neighbor's or other if none on the property...
Simply tack nother bolt head (plenty on the fl here from break offs or cut offs for the remaining 'all thread) on, perfer a 4 side or if must, a 6 side (fewer = more tq, less rounding) & wrench on that. Sometimes forward'n back a lill B4 the counter clock wise wrks. We gard for fire when ever using the mig as sparks fly far. We do not use in dicy situations even w/the asbestose shield, blanket or other aids. This particular 'stuck-spot' would indicate to us ability to use THIS system. The welding heat may help as much as the new bolt head. No fears abt the gear oil as we've done this exact operation B4...

 

[Seabee1966/1994]

Thx again. I will. But that will be after paint.

Update- I got it out. I POUNDED a T60 torx in.....and again tried the impact. It held and after 10 or so seobds.....the plug spun out. !!

It's a 3/4" pipe plug, go to the hardware store and purchase a 3/4" brass pipe plug. Take some oil resistance teflon tape, wrap the threads about 3 turns and wrench it in . Get the pipe plug type that has a square head so that all you have do is use an open end wrench. In fact if you look at your front end and also transfer case they have the type I am talking about. Your front end and transfer case are made by Dana and your rear end is made by
Ford, that's the reason for the difference.