Leaf springs...

[ms_jetset]

Hey- Got a couple questions for ya'll...First of all I'm taking the 4''blocks out I just had put in a couple of months ago (which will be for sale, if anyones been thinking of doing a 4" lift). Any suggestions on who to go with for a 4" lift leaf spring. If not I was gonna have um custom made. Second thing I'm replacing all eight body mounts. I going with rubber for a better cushion. Also putting in a 3" body lift, those are polyurethane. Any thoughts or suggestions on that? Keep in mind I have a 4" suspension lift already with 33" tires. Also what about sway arms? My mechanic said...Ford said the back one is fine without even looking at it! And to just replace the extentions on the front one. I'm trying to get a smoother ride. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

[Justshootme84]

Hey- Got a couple questions for ya'll...First of all I'm taking the 4''blocks out I just had put in a couple of months ago (which will be for sale, if anyones been thinking of doing a 4" lift). Any suggestions on who to go with for a 4" lift leaf spring. If not I was gonna have um custom made. Second thing I'm replacing all eight body mounts. I going with rubber for a better cushion. Also putting in a 3" body lift, those are polyurethane. Any thoughts or suggestions on that? Keep in mind I have a 4" suspension lift already with 33" tires. Also what about sway arms? My mechanic said...Ford said the back one is fine without even looking at it! And to just replace the extentions on the front one. I'm trying to get a smoother ride. Any help would be appreciated!!

I would either do a shackle flip for the rear spirngs or get the Sky MFg flip kit than buy new leafs. But if you want new leaf packs, I would check out Bronco Graveyard. The Deaver lifted packs are very good, and the Superlift springs are softer-riding than the Skyjacker leafs I had. I think it's good to replace all ten body mounts (don't forget the radiator core support bushings), but use polyurethane bushings instead of rubber. The poly's are not much stiffer than the rubber ones, but will last many times longer. They will help stabilize the body, especially if you're planning to do the body lift. Since you already have a 4" suspension lift, I would try driving without the anti-sway bars. You may notice that's there's little or no affect on ride quality, but it will give you much better flex offroad. You can run drop down brackets for mounting the front swaybar, but I know of no "kit" to extend' the rear links. With the lift kit you have now, the stock rear sway bar is already in a bind, and limiting your wheel travel. The endlinks also have a habit of hitting obstacles, like rocks or trees, when you drive over them. I got your PM and sent a reply, too. JSM84

 

[ms_jetset]

I would either do a shackle flip for the rear spirngs or get the Sky MFg flip kit than buy new leafs. But if you want new leaf packs, I would check out Bronco Graveyard. The Deaver lifted packs are very good, and the Superlift springs are softer-riding than the Skyjacker leafs I had. I think it's good to replace all ten body mounts (don't forget the radiator core support bushings), but use polyurethane bushings instead of rubber. The poly's are not much stiffer than the rubber ones, but will last many times longer. They will help stabilize the body, especially if you're planning to do the body lift. Since you already have a 4" suspension lift, I would try driving without the anti-sway bars. You may notice that's there's little or no affect on ride quality, but it will give you much better flex offroad. You can run drop down brackets for mounting the front swaybar, but I know of no "kit" to extend' the rear links. With the lift kit you have now, the stock rear sway bar is already in a bind, and limiting your wheel travel. The endlinks also have a habit of hitting obstacles, like rocks or trees, when you drive over them. I got your PM and sent a reply, too. JSM84

Ran,

Thank you for your response yesterday. You're the only one to respond. Guess no one thought it was a good topic? I sent you a PM. Talk to ya later tonight.

Thanks again

 

[shift1313]

your anti sway bars are not needed for ride quality. the only thing they help is to reduce body roll in a corner. Like just shoot me said you can probably get away without running them.

Are you planning on running larger tires? because 33s with a 4" suspension lift plus a body lift is way overkill.

I also agree that a shackle flip is probably your best option. I know you can get add-a-leafs for 2" of lift but its going to stiffen the ride quality. If you just do a shackle flip you will have the same ride essentially.

Dont forget about your brakes and steering. Its not a bad idea to upgrade these things. Steering damper will help take some extra forces off your drag link, tie rods and ball joints. Make sure your brakes are up to par if your going with larger tires as well because thats more weight and more rotational mass to keep that bronco moving making it harder for your brakes to do their job.

How is the front lifted?

 

[ms_jetset]

your anti sway bars are not needed for ride quality. the only thing they help is to reduce body roll in a corner. Like just shoot me said you can probably get away without running them.
Are you planning on running larger tires? because 33s with a 4" suspension lift plus a body lift is way overkill.

I also agree that a shackle flip is probably your best option. I know you can get add-a-leafs for 2" of lift but its going to stiffen the ride quality. If you just do a shackle flip you will have the same ride essentially.

Dont forget about your brakes and steering. Its not a bad idea to upgrade these things. Steering damper will help take some extra forces off your drag link, tie rods and ball joints. Make sure your brakes are up to par if your going with larger tires as well because thats more weight and more rotational mass to keep that bronco moving making it harder for your brakes to do their job.

How is the front lifted?

Well this is what my mechanic said they did as far as the lift...the front 4" lift was done with chassis link mounts, raised in the side of chasiss with coil springs. and in the rear with blocks and of course you saw I want to take the blocks out. Keep in mind most of the driving is on the highway every weekend from Manhatten, NY to the Poconos in PA (a 2hr. drive ). Then some trail-riding on the weekend. But when I drive through my development roads up there (which are dirt and gravel) my ass end is jumping around on the smallest of ripples in the road. I would like to achieve a smoother ride. No I don't plan on running larger tires anytime soon. I just had the 33''s put on with the 4" Superlift. By the way why do you say that is overkill?

 

[shift1313]

well you said you had 33" tires and a 4" suspension lift and you talked about an additional 3" body lift on top of that. Thats 7" lift for 33" tires. Most people can get away with 33s with no lift with the right offset rims. I was just saying i didnt see any need for the additional 3" body lift if you arent going to run larger tires. A body lift will only make your truck more unstable off road and ive never heard of them adding to the ride quality.

Your back end jumping around might be a product of the shocks you have on there also. Yes stiffer springs will cause road handling problems at speed on bumpy roads but a softer suspension wont help out unless you have good shocks. The shocks are really what takes care of ride quality.

 

[ms_jetset]

well you said you had 33" tires and a 4" suspension lift and you talked about an additional 3" body lift on top of that. Thats 7" lift for 33" tires. Most people can get away with 33s with no lift with the right offset rims. I was just saying i didnt see any need for the additional 3" body lift if you arent going to run larger tires. A body lift will only make your truck more unstable off road and ive never heard of them adding to the ride quality.
Your back end jumping around might be a product of the shocks you have on there also. Yes stiffer springs will cause road handling problems at speed on bumpy roads but a softer suspension wont help out unless you have good shocks. The shocks are really what takes care of ride quality.

When they did the lift they told me the company only sent them the 4 shocks for the front (Superlift), so the rear was finished another wkend and they put these yellow shocks on that have no name that I can tell of. Maybe than it is in fact those that are the "problem". I just talked to my mechanic he said the yellow ones in the back are Superlift too. But I have to say they look like a pair of $49.99 specials from a automotive store.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

When they did the lift they told me the company only sent them the 4 shocks for the front (Superlift), so the rear was finished another wkend and they put these yellow shocks on that have no name that I can tell of. Maybe than it is in fact those that are the "problem". I just talked to my mechanic he said the yellow ones in the back are Superlift too. But I have to say they look like a pair of $49.99 specials from a automotive store.

You know.. my tail jumps a bit when going over choppy roads, and I just imagined that it is the nature of a short wheel base with stiff springs. When my tires were underinflated, it was much smoother, but to get better gas milage, and better wear, I jacked up the pressure, and the bumpiness in the cab is just a part of driving a truck that was designed to be a truck and not a soccer-mom's car.

So with that being said, and thinking that the Expeditions are built on an F150 frame (aren't they), and thinking that they must have made it give more of a car like ride, would an Expedition suspension swap into a Bronco? The spring set must be more flexible.

On another thought.. would lubricating the current springs (between the leaves) make it a little more flexible, and more willing to absorb the bumps?

I'm thinking that my rear springs are so stiff, that in an unloaded truck I could go with NO shocks in the rear and on gravel roads, I wouldn't know the difference. Maybe I'm wrong.. it wouldn't be the first time.

 

[BLADE262US]

I would also use 6 inch lift springs . I got superlift ones when I raised my 89 and within a month or so they settled atleast a couple inches to where it looked like it was dragging its ass so I put 2 inch blocks in the back to bring it back to where it was . Maybe I got a bad set of springs they were brand new but that was my experience if you dont want blocks go bigger than you want they will settle . /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[shift1313]

you can replace the wear pads on your leaf packs. if they are gone then you will have alot of stiction between leaves.

really cheap stiff shocks will cause just the problem your having. there isnt a ton of weight in the back of the bronco, especially if you take the top off, so stiff truck shocks dont really do it justice.

 

[Angie Lu]

Do you have the stock suspention on your Bronco? I have an 89 that we are starting to work on and I am not sure where the 4inch block would go on the front?

 

[Justshootme84]

No, he has a 4" suspension lift kit. the 4" blocks are used under the stock rear springs. I think we figured out the problem is with the rear shocks. Looks like they're POS Monroe magnums. Shift1313 nailed it, and i concur. JSM84

 

[ms_jetset]

No, he has a 4" suspension lift kit. the 4" blocks are used under the stock rear springs. I think we figured out the problem is with the rear shocks. Looks like they're POS Monroe magnums. Shift1313 nailed it, and i concur. JSM84

Hey Ran- I'm having a **** of a time trying to find a company that carrys the body mounts with the hardware. I tried Rocky Mountaian Suspension, Wild Horses 4 wheeldrive, Summit, and LMC. Does anyone know where to get the poly bushing with ALL the hardware?

 

[Mike G]

Try Bronco Grave Yard.

This link will take you to the bushings page.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-605

 

[ms_jetset]

Try Bronco Grave Yard.
This link will take you to the bushings page.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-605

Ya tried them too. They have the hardware package for almost $400, but doesn't even include the bushings!

 

[Justshootme84]

Hey Ran- I'm having a **** of a time trying to find a company that carrys the body mounts with the hardware. I tried Rocky Mountaian Suspension, Wild Horses 4 wheeldrive, Summit, and LMC. Does anyone know where to get the poly bushing with ALL the hardware?

You'll have to buy the poly bushings separate from the hardware. The "hardware" includes the long bolt, lower washer with a nut welded to it, and both the upper and lower metal sleeves that go inside the bushings. JBg is the only place I've found that sells the hardware for the body mounts, and of course it's $400+ for a new set. It's OK to re-use your original harware, as long as the bolt threads aren't damaged or you end up having to cut apart the two sleeves to separate them. I was able to re-use all of mine except one of the front core support mounts that was rusted solid.

One other point: after you remove the old body bushings, check the condition of the brackets that mount on the frame under the cab portion. IF these are rusted out or the hole is damaged, you'll need to repair these before installing new bushings. Easiest way I've found is to weld some metal washers to the bracket. The washers have a center hole just lage enough for the center of the upper bushing to fit through without moving around. JSM84

(I'll look for a write-up on replacing the body mounts, and post a link)

Read post #10. Steve83 also has a few disgrams that may help explain how the mounts are installed:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40257

I also just remembered this one from 2Bigbroncos.org:

http://2bigbroncos.org/technical/Body_Lift/index.html

You can ignore the 1" body lift spacer part)

Most shops charge about $600 to install a body lift, and I would figure about the same to replace the body mount bushings. Most likely a 2-3 day job if it takes 1-2 hours per body mount due to rust.

 

[ms_jetset]

You'll have to buy the poly bushings separate from the hardware. The "hardware" includes the long bolt, lower washer with a nut welded to it, and both the upper and lower metal sleeves that go inside the bushings. JBg is the only place I've found that sells the hardware for the body mounts, and of course it's $400+ for a new set. It's OK to re-use your original harware, as long as the bolt threads aren't damaged or you end up having to cut apart the two sleeves to separate them. I was able to re-use all of mine except one of the front core support mounts that was rusted solid.

One other point: after you remove the old body bushings, check the condition of the brackets that mount on the frame under the cab portion. IF these are rusted out or the hole is damaged, you'll need to repair these before installing new bushings. Easiest way I've found is to weld some metal washers to the bracket. The washers have a center hole just lage enough for the center of the upper bushing to fit through without moving around. JSM84

(I'll look for a write-up on replacing the body mounts, and post a link)

Read post #10. Steve83 also has a few disgrams that may help explain how the mounts are installed:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40257

I also just remembered this one from 2Bigbroncos.org:

http://2bigbroncos.org/technical/Body_Lift/index.html

You can ignore the 1" body lift spacer part)

Most shops charge about $600 to install a body lift, and I would figure about the same to replace the body mount bushings. Most likely a 2-3 day job if it takes 1-2 hours per body mount due to rust.

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Hey, Ran...not feeling well. I will read this tomorrow first thing and get back to you. Thanks-

 

[Angie Lu]

Do you have the stock suspention on your Bronco? I have an 89 that we are starting to work on and I am not sure where the 4inch block would go on the front?

You still want to sell the 4 inch lift?