Is search of Supertechs advice

[stumped]

After many attempts to find a replacement for an ICM that would not trip the Check Engine light I have given up. I was replacing electronic parts that might strand me in the long run. I am still using the stock ICM but if it fails what do I do? Surely, there is a 21st century replacement part for this old one. Guys do engine upgrades with new electronics all the time. How do they do it? My 302 engine is in perfect condition and I don't need that upgraded. Is there an upgrade distributor, ignition part, etc. that does not require the old ICM? This is the tiny module that is located on the inside driver fender and not on the distributor itself, like some models do... any ideas on this...

 

[Motech]

I referenced some posts from earlier this year on this exact same topic, them found it was your thread!

There was some good info there. This entry summarized your last position:

This is Motorcraft DY-1077:

View attachment 31120

The Ford PN for your 1996 is 5U2Z-12A297-B

This crosses to the grey Motorcraft PN DY-1075

View attachment 31121

These discrepancies have kicked my old-school Ford behind a few times; made me grateful for the Triton engines.

I have this module but am afraid to plug it in after having so many failures and getting the check engine again... have ordered the DY1077... will see what happens

Did you ever try that?

Also, you indicated in that thread you were replacing it as preventative maintenance, that the OE unit still worked fine. Then here, in your new thread...

I am still using the stock ICM but if it fails what do I do?

A few thoughts come to mind:

1. If it ain't broke...
2. When/if it ever does break, even though the wrong ICM sets a code, it will run without damaging anything else.
3. Those modules are real durable, and only really break with one consistent cause: bad ignition coil. With that, a new, quality ignition coil--much more affordable than the ICM BTW--would go a long way toward preserving the life of your current, factory unit. And...
4. If it ain't broke...

 

[miesk5]

Yo
I posted tge following in https://www.broncozone.com/threads/still-having-trouble-with-check-engine-for-icm.29183/#post-151561
"96 Bronco 5.0 ignition control module DY 1077 from Rock Auto is Genuine Ford Motorcraft®⚠

On 21 May, 2019 I purchased a 96 Ford Bronco 5.0 ignition control module, Motorcraft® DY 1077 from Rock Auto.
•
I received it 23 May and noticed the usual Motorcraft® logo wasn't impressed on it.
The box looked the same as what I have purchased in past from our local Ford dealership.

I e mailed Ford Global Brand Protection and asked, "is this is a genuine Mototocraft part?"
Here's the reply;
"After reviewing the information you provided, the part you purchased appears to be genuine. The OE current model part does not have a Motorcraft/Ford logo on it and looks like the part in your photo. Since the vehicle model year for this part is very old the supplier of the part most likely has changed. Also we have not had any prior issues with Rock Auto selling non-genuine parts."
Lisa W.
Ford Motor Company
Global Brand Protection
313-317-4776
"What Is Global Brand Protection?
The Global Brand Protection group exists to protect the consumer by ensuring high quality original equipment parts are used in your vehicle that are recommended by Ford Motor Company. Counterfeit products potentially compromise consumer expectations because they do not meet Ford Motor Company’s rigorous testing and quality control standards.

Global Brand Protection focuses on:
Preventing the distribution of and removing counterfeit parts from the marketplace
Ensuring that the company’s trademarks are used appropriately
Maintaining the integrity of the sale and distribution of Genuine Ford parts..."
Ford | Global Brand Protection"

 

[stumped]

I referenced some posts from earlier this year on this exact same topic, them found it was your thread!

There was some good info there. This entry summarized your last position:




Did you ever try that?

Also, you indicated in that thread you were replacing it as preventative maintenance, that the OE unit still worked fine. Then here, in your new thread...



A few thoughts come to mind:

1. If it ain't broke...
2. When/if it ever does break, even though the wrong ICM sets a code, it will run without damaging anything else.
3. Those modules are real durable, and only really break with one consistent cause: bad ignition coil. With that, a new, quality ignition coil--much more affordable than the ICM BTW--would go a long way toward preserving the life of your current, factory unit. And...
4. If it ain't broke...

I got it... but if it does break how do I get an ICU that will work? I tried DY1077 Motorcraft and it does not work...

 

[stumped]

I referenced some posts from earlier this year on this exact same topic, them found it was your thread!

There was some good info there. This entry summarized your last position:




Did you ever try that?

Also, you indicated in that thread you were replacing it as preventative maintenance, that the OE unit still worked fine. Then here, in your new thread...



A few thoughts come to mind:

1. If it ain't broke...
2. When/if it ever does break, even though the wrong ICM sets a code, it will run without damaging anything else.
3. Those modules are real durable, and only really break with one consistent cause: bad ignition coil. With that, a new, quality ignition coil--much more affordable than the ICM BTW--would go a long way toward preserving the life of your current, factory unit. And...
4. If it ain't broke...

I also tried DY1075 per someone's advice... did not work... its gray and the part number is 5u2z12a297b... yeah, ya want a free one? It's laying in my console looking for a home.. still didn't get any answers about updating to 21st century electronics ... wished I still lived in Lake Havasu... those guys build hundreds of new engines and restomods... I'll bet they don't use a 27 year old electronic part like I am having to...

 

[Motech]

I tried DY1077 Motorcraft and it does not work...

I also tried DY1075 per someone's advice...

Well that answers my question. You tried them both.

That was probably me with the DY-1075. I mentioned that the OE part number crosses to that Motorcraft number. But I also said these module Mix-Ups kick my ass too on the 96 models. That's the only year for them too.

So what stands out now is you tried the only two modules available for that model, and they're both turning on your check engine light.

But I still don't recall if you told us what code is turning on that light. I remember another guy asking you, but I don't remember you answering.

If you've tried both modules and they both turn on the check engine light, maybe that's not the module turning on the light, or maybe there's a problem somewhere that's causing that light beyond the module.

If I missed it somewhere, that's par for my memory. Could you kindly share the code(s) you're recording?

 

[paul rondelli]

Sorry I'm a little late to party.

My ICM (on the 1996 Bronco with a 302) stopped working about three years ago. I just ran a wire to the starter relay and flip a toggle switch to engage the starter. The key still has to be on ACC ... but this by-passes all the safety checks the ICM preforms (neutral safety switch).

After some research I believed my issue was in the column ..... with the crappy little plastic piece that plugs into the back of the ICM. About three weeks ago I started to hear some nice crunching sounds when turning the wheel. The bearing in the steering column are also shot.

I found a replacement remanufactured steering column on Ebay for $350. I replaced it this weekend.

Here are e few shots of the plastic piece I'm referring to that triggers the ICM when you turn the key. The old one was wasted away to nothing and was not engaging the ICM anymore.


I'm kind of confused .... because the ECM (engine control module) is located on the drivers side firewall (sometimes referred to as the cars computer). That controls everything related to the operation of the engine. The ICM is located on the steering column and only controls the ignition?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Paul,
The ignition control module (ICM) receives spark signals from the powertrain control module (PCM) and serves as an electric switch for the coil primary circuit. Based on input signals, the powertrain control module will signal the ignition module to make corrections to the basic ignition timing. The computed ignition timing is determined by the engine speed, intake manifold vacuum (calculated by the intake air amount and engine speed) and EGR flow rate.

---

My 96 Bronco 5.0 ICM DY 1077 from Rock Auto is Genuine Motorcraft⚠ - It's so unfortunate that the catalogs in virtually every auto part store, real and online, list the wrong ignition control module for those of us with 1994+, or TFI-CCD, trucks. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no-spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck:

1. The distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor to start generating its crankshaft position signal.
2. The ignition control module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP signal, starts to ‘open and close’ the ignition coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the ignition coil spark.
3. The fuel injection computer also receives the PIP signal at the same time that the ignition module does.
4. Once the engine STARTS, the fuel injection computer takes over the ignition timing.

The PIP sensor is at the heart of this fender mounted ignition control module and ignition system. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor:

1. The PIP sensor is located in the distributor.
2. It's a Hall Effect type sensor.
3. It produces a digital square wave if its signal is tested on an oscilloscope.
4. This signal can also be tested with an LED light (which is the method I'll use in this article).
5. If it goes bad, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START.

 

[wyo58]

Well that answers my question. You tried them both.

That was probably me with the DY-1075. I mentioned that the OE part number crosses to that Motorcraft number. But I also said these module Mix-Ups kick my ass too on the 96 models. That's the only year for them too.

So what stands out now is you tried the only two modules available for that model, and they're both turning on your check engine light.

But I still don't recall if you told us what code is turning on that light. I remember another guy asking you, but I don't remember you answering.

If you've tried both modules and they both turn on the check engine light, maybe that's not the module turning on the light, or maybe there's a problem somewhere that's causing that light beyond the module.

If I missed it somewhere, that's par for my memory. Could you kindly share the code(s) you're recording?

Agreed Motech we sort of need to know the exact code that it is setting when the ICM is changed.

 

[stumped]

I did not have a meter to read the code when I first changed the ICM. I took it to Autozone and it pointed to the new ICM as the problem. After trying several ICM's and always getting a CHECK ENGINE light I put the stock one back one. I hope it lasts but worried what I would do if it fails. I appreciate the incredible explanation of what all the ignition parts do but it does not answer my question of if there is 21st century replacements for these parts. I wouldn't care if I have to replace the ECM, etc. to get a modern ICM that you can actually find. When all the engines changed somebody will know the answer. Surely, you don't have a buy a new engine to get modern electronics... My 302 engine only has 127K on it and is perfect. Buy the way, if I can't work this out does anyone know the best place to sell a virtually perfect 96 XLT

 

[Motech]

You have two choices: grey or black. Without a code, that's it.

 

[wyo58]

I did not have a meter to read the code when I first changed the ICM. I took it to Autozone and it pointed to the new ICM as the problem. After trying several ICM's and always getting a CHECK ENGINE light I put the stock one back one. I hope it lasts but worried what I would do if it fails. I appreciate the incredible explanation of what all the ignition parts do but it does not answer my question of if there is 21st century replacements for these parts. I wouldn't care if I have to replace the ECM, etc. to get a modern ICM that you can actually find. When all the engines changed somebody will know the answer. Surely, you don't have a buy a new engine to get modern electronics... My 302 engine only has 127K on it and is perfect. Buy the way, if I can't work this out does anyone know the best place to sell a virtually perfect 96 XLT

There are systems out there that will control fuel and spark including distributor less systems. They are not that easy to install as you have to use their sensors and their crank triggers. if you get by the installation part of it you have to know fuel mapping which is very hard to do with out a lot of experience. I have installed one of these a few years back and the mapping part is really hard to get just right, in other words lots of time on your lap top and testing. Also the one I had would not control the transmission so I had to get a separate transmission control unit for that. It is a whole bunch of work, alot of money and quite frankly not worth it in my opinion. If it were me I would work out what you have and just drive it.