Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

[69Lover]

Hey all, I am wanting to convert my 69 to a hydraulic clutch. I am wondering if any of you have done this and what path did you take? I am running an NV4500 from advance adapters setup with the Ford standard input shaft. Does someone make a throwout bearing that is worthy of the effort? Is there another way to accomplish this without taking the trans out? I was looking at Wilwood 260-1304 and 260-1333, not sure how that would work. Appreciate your time!

 

[johnnyreb]

Hey all, I am wanting to convert my 69 to a hydraulic clutch. I am wondering if any of you have done this and what path did you take? I am running an NV4500 from advance adapters setup with the Ford standard input shaft. Does someone make a throwout bearing that is worthy of the effort? Is there another way to accomplish this without taking the trans out? I was looking at Wilwood 260-1304 and 260-1333, not sure how that would work. Appreciate your time!

For starters the standard clutch set up with rods. Are alot less trouble and cost. The standard clutch set up is alot less trouble. Why would you want to change?

 

[69Lover]

For starters the standard clutch set up with rods. Are alot less trouble and cost. The standard clutch set up is alot less trouble. Why would you want to change?

Well if everything was so easy I suppose I wouldn't consider it. However I have made an oversight with a custom fab of a double shock tower which now interferes with the mounting of the clutch equalizer. Too late.to turn back now

 

[johnnyreb]

Well if everything was so easy I suppose I wouldn't consider it. However I have made an oversight with a custom fab of a double shock tower which now interferes with the mounting of the clutch equalizer. Too late.to turn back now

 

[johnnyreb]

Well what you might want to do is what I did. When I put a different size motor in my bronco. I was having trouble like you. I started looking at the clutch rod on the side of the block and frame at a different position(s) and moved the parts around and it worked. If you could post some picture(s) it might also be able to show someone more. Good luck. Can you get some iron and make a different brace for it for the clutch rod pieces to help you any? I had to make mine

 

[johnnyreb]

Well what you might want to do is what I did. When I put a different size motor in my bronco. I was having trouble like you. I started looking at the clutch rod on the side of the block and frame at a different position(s) and moved the parts around and it worked. If you could post some picture(s) it might also be able to show someone more. Good luck. Can you get some iron and make a different brace for it for the clutch rod pieces to help you any? I had to make mine Also where the clutch pivots off the side of the motor and the frame. It should be as level as you can get it. You might have to use some metal to get it and also adjust it to.

 

[johnnyreb]

When I first done mine. I had over looked . The way the clutch set up was. After I tried working the clutch. I knew some thing was wrong. I started looking at it at a different position. It was TILTED BAD. So I had to get another piece . To go on TOP of the frame and raise that side. To make the set up LEVEL. It works good now. You might also have to go with a THICKER piece of steel of one of the piecec. I,ll try and find a picture(s) of the area on a 69.and maybe able to help you. You might want to contact TIHA on hear and he might help you.

 

[69Lover]

Thanks, I have a mock up already fabricated with 3/8' plate, cut down the tube on the equalizer by three inches, and modified the reach rod position. I do not like the way it looks even though it is stout enough, looks like an after thought to me. Appreciate the comments, just trying to recover from my own oversight and found this hydraulic answer to be a viable solution. Also found and article in broncozone of someone that has done it successfully, I attached the pics he posted. I think this looks clean.

 

[johnnyreb]

Thanks, I have a mock up already fabricated with 3/8' plate, cut down the tube on the equalizer by three inches, and modified the reach rod position. I do not like the way it looks even though it is stout enough, looks like an after thought to me. Appreciate the comments, just trying to recover from my own oversight and found this hydraulic answer to be a viable solution. Also found and article in broncozone of someone that has done it successfully, I attached the pics he posted. I think this looks clean.

Well all the ones (including mine) The clutch pivot ( when you push down on the clutch)-would be attached to the motor block and the other end would be attached to a piece of stock on top of the frame area. --------------the way the picture shows. The clutch fork would be pulled. I,ll try and get a picture of mine in the next couple of days--when the weather clears up. OK.

Thanks, I have a mock up already fabricated with 3/8' plate, cut down the tube on the equalizer by three inches, and modified the reach rod position. I do not like the way it looks even though it is stout enough, looks like an after thought to me. Appreciate the comments, just trying to recover from my own oversight and found this hydraulic answer to be a viable solution. Also found and article in broncozone of someone that has done it successfully, I attached the pics he posted. I think this looks clean.

Yes its nice and clean and neat looking, Now think--imagine the seat and your sitting in it. This picture would have you sitting in the back seat. Look how far back from the motor it it.-------Now if the CLUTCH FORK was about--3-4 inches longer. The clutch rod was attached to the FRONT of the CLUTCH FORK. IT WOULD BE IN THE PUSHING POSITION ( LIKE PUSHING DOWN ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL------------Now--locate the ball on the side of the motor block. Draw an IMAGINARY LINE----ACROSS TO THE ROD. See what I mean?. Then it would be connected up and when you pushed in on the clutch. It would work. If you lived close buy I,d come and help you. I live in West Virginia

 

[johnnyreb]

Thanks, I have a mock up already fabricated with 3/8' plate, cut down the tube on the equalizer by three inches, and modified the reach rod position. I do not like the way it looks even though it is stout enough, looks like an after thought to me. Appreciate the comments, just trying to recover from my own oversight and found this hydraulic answer to be a viable solution. Also found and article in broncozone of someone that has done it successfully, I attached the pics he posted. I think this looks clean.

Is this your motor?

 

[johnnyreb]

Is this your motor?

In order for the clutch to work. It has to be pushed BACKWARDS--TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. The way the picture shows. Its being STABLED--CAN,T BE PUSHED OR PULLED----------BUT I think this is your motor. Now IF the BACK plate------- WAS placed forward----ACCROSS ---FROM THE BALL--IN THE FRAME AREA---YOU HAVE IT.

 

[johnnyreb]

In order for the clutch to work. It has to be pushed BACKWARDS--TOWARD THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. The way the picture shows. Its being STABLED--CAN,T BE PUSHED OR PULLED----------BUT I think this is your motor. Now IF the BACK plate------- WAS placed forward----ACCROSS ---FROM THE BALL--IN THE FRAME AREA---YOU HAVE IT.

Try and get it as LEVEL as you can and NOT HAVE ANY TILT--BIND--IN IT.

 

[johnnyreb]

Try and get it as LEVEL as you can and NOT HAVE ANY TILT--BIND--IN It

 

[69Lover]

So doing more research on the Wilwood ***** Bearing, the rating on this part are TERRIBLE at best. Mind you, the parts are available for under $300 through Summit, but in the reviews there are people that have replaced this pull ***** three times in six months. Looking more like I will be welding this weekend. Thanks

 

[69Lover]

Try and get it as LEVEL as you can and NOT HAVE ANY TILT--BIND--IN IT.

This picture is another Bronco application, not mine. The 1333 is a pull cylinder. I have determined that having an o-ring equipped cylinder that close to my headers will never be good, not to mention that the ratings on the Wilwood component are terrible

 

[69Lover]

Is this your motor?

No, not my truck. Here is my setup

 

[johnnyreb]

The first picture. Looks like the header was in the way and someone done away with the pivot and brace of top of the frame.

 

[69Lover]

Lol, that would be me. I had to shorten the tubing by 3" so it would not interfere with my shock towers. Slight mis calculation on my part of the stock clutch would have already been installed

 

[johnnyreb]

The first picture. Looks like the header was in the way and someone done away with the pivot and brace of top of the frame.

Well since the last pictures are your set up. You can see the clutch pivot--brace where it goes. I can,nt see if their is any space between the header pipe. To where the clutch pivot could go through. Now IF IT CAN--AND BOLT TO THE BLOCK WITH THE PIVOT BALL--YOUR IN LUCK.

 

[johnnyreb]

Lol, that would be me. I had to shorten the tubing by 3" so it would not interfere with my shock towers. Slight mis calculation on my part of the stock clutch would have already been installed

If id does bolt up. Then all you have to do is run your adjustment rod. From the bottom of the pivot to the clutch fork and adjust the clutch. Now I don,t know about the adjustment on a 69-----but on my 78 . It was tricky. It should take hold about a couple of inches as you start to let it out.