Help: Driver's Side Power Window

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greatbigphil

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Hey guys,

I'm having trouble with my driver's side pow window on my 89 Eddie Bauer. The window won't go up. I was drivign around yesterday and it was workign fine, then I rolled it down one time, about half way, and that's where it decided to stay. nothing happens when I push the switch, Funnily enough, the passenger window is workign fine, as is the power locks.

Here's what I've checed so far:

- I've taken out the switch and made sure the wires are all connected, and checkd out as much as I can by just removign the interior door panel.

- The track on the bottom of the window is well lubed and the arm is not stuck

- The window isn't stuck in the track in the door, I can move it up and down a bit

- Since both side windows work off the same fuse, and the passenger one is workign fine, I'm not worried about the fuse, but I checked it anyway and it's fine

- When I push the passendger switch I see the volt meter in the dash move a bit, when I do the driver's side, there's no change in the volt meter

Any of you guys seen this before?

 

2NDTOUR89

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Window motor.... It probably gave up the ghost. I just did all three of mine for doing basically the same thing...

 
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greatbigphil

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Window motor.... It probably gave up the ghost. I just did all three of mine for doing basically the same thing...
Where'd you get your motors? Expensive? Is it difficult to replace them? I took the interior door panel off, and couldn't see anywhere to disconnect the motor, or take off the metal under the interior face plate.

Thanks!

 

2NDTOUR89

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I work in an auto dealership as a parts manager so I have access to parts at a pretty good discount but you can get motors from just about any parts chain for around $50-60. Some models you have to cut the wires in the door and rewire the new motor in since some dont come with connectors on them. Depending on the brand, some come with an assortment of connectors to fit multiple models. The ones I purchased were rebuilt motors by A1 Cardone and I had to wire them in with new connectors. They are kind of a pain to put in but doable. One of the bolts to the motor you cannot access by any means other than drilling a hole to fit a socket through in your door. There is a dimple in the sheetmetal over the bolt and just drill a hole slightly larger than the socket (5/16 I think) so you can get it out..

 
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greatbigphil

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yo,Did you try to jumper the motor?

Here is troubleshooting info from our pal, Seabronc

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3251

& his replacement info;

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3252
Thanks for the links!

I did think about jumpering the motor directly, but I couldn't figure out how to get twelve volts directly to the connector. Maybe there's some easy, obvious, way to do it. If so, I'm failing to think of it. Maybe running wire directly form the poles of the battery would work?

 
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Bmachine

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Thanks for the links!
I did think about jumpering the motor directly, but I couldn't figure out how to get twelve volts directly to the connector. Maybe there's some easy, obvious, way to do it. If so, I'm failing to think of it. Maybe running wire directly form the poles of the battery would work?
I also would like to know how to jump the motor I was about to buy a new window motor but don't want to if I don't have to

 

miesk5

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yo, didn';t see these Qs, sorry..here is Seabronc's suggestion; "...jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then: .." read rest of his ts article in his Post

I use an old cig lighter male plug from an old radar detector, etc. with leads cut and aligator clip/prong combo on other ends (like Radio Shack sells for multimeters) or just twist stripped conductors and twist tight to fit inside motor's electr. connector; plug cig male plug in and try not to hit metal (ground) wuth hot lead when applying 12v to the connector.

 

Bmachine

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I ended up replacing the window motor, it was pretty easy hardest part was the drilling then just have to unbolt and bolt the new one in. Im glad I finally got around to it, now to figure out the rear window....

 

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