Fuel Economy Issues? Currently 6 mpg! Running WAY to Rich & no

[Seabronc]

I called Guaranteed Carb & asked them to send me back my kockdown bar connection piece. They said they would OR they'd reman mine & send it back to me. I told them to just send the knockdown connection piece. Do either of you see a reason why I should get my old one remanned & put it back on (other than the knockdown connector)?... I will check the items y'all mentioned this evening. Thanks again for all your help thus far!

Is the one you have a reman?  If so, no difference.  A reman is brought back to factory specs.

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Here's a link to some pictures of the charcoal canister, lines & hoses, and where some are cut, & the gas tank **** covered with duct tape http://www.supermotors.net/registry/27354/84927

 

[Seabronc]

You see that 'lil cube shaped thingie with a bolt thru it with several vacuum lines plugged into it..?

That's a vacuum manifold to provide vacuum to several items.

The tubes that go up & turn down may be (one) that goes to the trannie. The modulator has to have vacuum.

BullyBob,

     Upon looking further I was mistaken when I stated that there are 2 lines coming from the EGR & the lower one is capped off with a *****. I just went out & looked again & this is how the EGR & the cube shaped vacuum manifold are: 1. the EGR only has one port/*** & it is the one that has a 2" rubber line that wasn't capped off (after reading what SeaBronc stated, it doesn't matter whether it is capped or not), and 2. the cube shaped vacuum manifold actually has four ports/**** (one on the driver's side, two on the lower top side of it, & one on the right side). The line going from the driver's side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold down toward the tranny is capped off on the end by a *****. The line on the top *** on the top side connects to the rear of the two **** located on the passenger side of the tranny (it was barely connected from the rubber rotting off around the *** so, I cut the rot off & connected it tightly. Should the line from the driver's side of the cube shaped vacuum manifiold be capped off like it is & the front most of the two **** on the tranny just be open as it is or should that line be connected to it), and the lower *** on the top side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold is capped off.

If it doesn't go any place and is not capped off, do a little de-clutter and remove it and cap the port it use to be connected to the vacuum distribution block.

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Is the one you have a reman?  If so, no difference.  A reman is brought back to factory specs.

Yes, it is. That's reason I just asked for the knockdown connector from my old one to be sent to me but after the call I thought, well maybe there's other differences between one for a manual tranny vs. auto. (didn't think so, but wanted your opinion before they sent me the knockdown piece only). Thanks

 

[bigbeardbiii]

You see that 'lil cube shaped thingie with a bolt thru it with several vacuum lines plugged into it..?

That's a vacuum manifold to provide vacuum to several items.

The tubes that go up & turn down may be (one) that goes to the trannie. The modulator has to have vacuum.

BullyBob,

     Upon looking further I was mistaken when I stated that there are 2 lines coming from the EGR & the lower one is capped off with a *****. I just went out & looked again & this is how the EGR & the cube shaped vacuum manifold are: 1. the EGR only has one port/*** & it is the one that has a 2" rubber line that wasn't capped off (after reading what SeaBronc stated, it doesn't matter whether it is capped or not), and 2. the cube shaped vacuum manifold actually has four ports/**** (one on the driver's side, two on the lower top side of it, & one on the right side). The line going from the driver's side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold down toward the tranny is capped off on the end by a *****. The line on the top *** on the top side connects to the rear of the two **** located on the passenger side of the tranny (it was barely connected from the rubber rotting off around the *** so, I cut the rot off & connected it tightly. Should the line from the driver's side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold be capped off like it is & the front most of the two **** on the tranny just be open as it is or should that line be connected to it), and the lower *** on the top side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold is capped off.

If it doesn't go any place and is not capped off, do a little de-clutter and remove it and cap the port it use to be connected to the vacuum distribution block.

If you are referring to the one that is the line going from the driver's side of the cube shaped vacuum manifold down toward the tranny is capped off on the end by a *****. No, it doesn't CURRENTLY go to anything BUT since there is also a *** on the right side of the tranny that doesn't have anything connected to it and is NOT capped off, it obviously went there originally (the hose is capped off & laying beside the tranny & the length of the hose is the same length it would need to be to go to the vacant *** on tranny. I just don't know if it needs to be reconnected there or not & if not, do I not need to cap the *** on the tranny? Thanks, Dean

 

[Seabronc]

Here is a pretty good picture of the tranny.  The steel lines in the picture are for the transmission cooler connection.

 

[Seabronc]

Here is a kick down hookup and looks like your carb, but can't be sure.

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Here is a pretty good picture of the tranny.  The steel lines in the picture are for the transmission cooler connection.

My coolant lines are connected going from the trans to the rad. However, in the pic I don't see the two **** for the vacuum lines. As you can see in the pics I sent a link to most recently, I have one hose going to the tranny from the metal rectangular vacuum manifold bolted to the engine but the other hose is capped off with a ***** in it and the 2nd *** on the tranny is just there (*****) with no hose connected & no cap. Also, the other pics in that same folder I recently uploaded show the other lines that are suppose to go to the gas tank but are cut off just past the bracket that holds them several inches from the gas tank. The gas tank also has two **** with nothing connected to them (a piece of duct tape is covering them). So, my questions are since I obviously have an electric choke but have hoses that aren't hooked up (1 on tranny, two on gas tank, and one cut that goes into the driver's side rear inner fender well) which of these do I need to reconnect and which one's don't serve any purpose anymore (& why do they not serve a purpose anymore)? This is my first experience with an engine or vehicle that's pre-1986. Thanks, Dean

 

[Bully Bob]

"..two on gas tank, and one cut that goes into the driver's side rear inner fender well) which of these do I need to reconnect and which one's don't serve any purpose anymore (& why do they not serve a purpose anymore)?"

What you're seeing is the remnants of the vapor/fumes system. It WAS there to capture all fumes from the vehicles

fuel system. It was a sealed system including the gas cap which was not vented.

You could get a "vented" gas cap & put rubber tips on the two small *******  on the side of the tank.

(in place of the duct tape)

The monkey motion up under the rear wheel well & the canister under the hood have been abandoned.

It would cost $$$ to restore it, if at all possible & hours/days of work. 

We're getting way ahead of ourselves here & at this point I would suggest spending a few hours in your local

libuary. I think ebay still has some factory repair manuals.

You might look into an auto shop class B/4 going much further. They may even have you bring your Bronco in

for the class to work/learn on..., along with an instructor.

As we're doing here, it could take months of typing/posting to get you safe & happy on the road.. /

The Early Bronco is one of the easiest vehicles to work on in existance.

Even so., it takes a bit of mechanical background

I don't recall seeing a dual vacuum hose (on the modulator) on my '72 EB with the auto trans.

That (yours) could be the wrong modulator.., but, I'm not real savy on auto trannies.

Above Seabronc showed a pic of the proper kickdown hook-up. It could be tricky mounting those

parts to your existing parts. I think that carb shop should make you whole with the proper linkage.

We need to work on/fix one think at a time ----- always start a new thread for a new issue.

That way knowledgeable folks will chime in.  THEY WON'T with several issues in one thread.

Too confusing..... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />  @-)   |-)

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Understood, I was initially trying to figure out why my gas mileage was so low & why it shifted through all gears so soon & from what I've been reading it should ALL be related to vacuum. Therefore, I'm just trying to figure out if that's the case what lines need to be connected and which don't serve a purpose on my vehicle & therefore, should be capped off.

 

[Bully Bob]

The best I got from my EB with an auto trans was 8mpg combined street-n-trail.

"..why it shifted through all gears so soon & from what I've been reading it should ALL be related to vacuum."

Yes. but not all..., the modulator could be bad or wrong one.., the kickdown comes into play., and who knows

if the PO messed with the shift adjustments.

Anything that's sucking air, other than the air filter, should be plugged.

You know there's surgeons that do heart surgery from thousands of miles away via cameras & robots.

What we're doing here is harder than that....!

If the posters all had forehead cameras & microphones, this would be a piece-o-cake..!

The best we can do is provide guidelines/suggestions from our own experiences.

I once flew my airplane to an airport & landed with the engine out & zero visibility out the cockpit windshield.

Even that was easier than fixing vehicles over a keyboard.

Not trying to discourage you.., just that we need lots of help from the posters to narrow down

issues & failures.  Part of that is bookwork research, & boning up on mechanical skills.

If you weren't so far away.., I'd come do it for you.  BUT.., there's going to be 5-10 more projects on

that vehicle that need attention.

Let's get the vacuum leaks plugged & the kickdown working proper..., then go from there. >< <'>  B)

 

[bigbeardbiii]

I don't recall seeing a dual vacuum hose (on the modulator) on my '72 EB with the auto trans.

That (yours) could be the wrong modulator.., but, I'm not real savy on auto trannies.

According to another mechanic "'73s have 2 lines to the vacuum modulator on the back of the C4.Just one line to a single ****** type modulator from full manifold vacuum is what Ford used in '76-'77, and is far simpler".

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Ok. Just don't know if capping off EVERY hose,  line, & *** that are NOT connected, except the one from the the charcoal canister to the breather, is what I'm suppose to do(?) Thanks, Dean

 

[Bully Bob]

Kewl...!  Glad you found that out..! (modulator vacuum)  Good job..!!

None of the vapor lines are hooked up to anything on the tank or in the engine bay.., so they don't need to be plugged.

By breather.., RU refering to the big blue carb air filter...?  Or RU refering to the 'lil (2-3 inch) cap looking thing that plugs into the valve cover..? (this is actually the breather.)

I think that year still had a PCV valve plugged into a grommet in the valve cover as well....?

Shoot two more pics, one of ea. valve cover...., not too close up.

With  the vapor system abandoned.., I don't think anything needs to be hooked to the charcoal canister.

 

[Seabronc]

Nobody said plug everything that is not hooked up. If the vacuum modulator has two connectors then go for it and hook them both up, if there are two then they both need to be hooked up.  We are not there to see your truck and doing this via pictures and your verbal descriptions is not the exactly ideal.

As Bob has suggested in the past, get the proper documentation for your truck.  Depending on where in the country a truck was actually delivered to the vacuum connections and associated valves are hooked up differently.  That's why you were told in previous posts to look for your vacuum diagram.  From there you can decide what is missing and what you want to restore.  The vacuum system has several functions; Cold start and run, evaporative emissions control, intake air temperature control, transmission shift control, normal run.  Your system is a mess, I personally would rip all the old vacuum lines out and put in new ones.  Restore one vacuum function at a time. 

If you have another mechanic who is on site or can be on site, I would suggest you pay him what he is worth to get your truck running properly.

Good luck,

>-  

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Yes, it's a reman. They accidentally sent me one for a manual tranny. I contacted them & they are sending me the knockdown gear connection bracket & spring off of mine to install the gear arm to the carb. (suppose to be here Thursday).

 

[bigbeardbiii]

Is the one you have a reman?  If so, no difference.  A reman is brought back to factory specs.

Yes it is. They are sending me the knockdown bar connector piece & the spring for it off my old one. Suppose to be here tomorrow.