Easy Front Lift

[custom_78]

My bronco didn't sit level and already had a 4 inch lift kit on it, but I wanted it to sit level. I bought some aluminum round stock and cut it down to the size that I wanted the lift to be. After it was cut I made sure it was truly flat by using a lathe, but you could also use a sander. After it is true and flat use the bottom spring cup to mark the two holes that have to be drilled. Clamp the spacer blocks into a drill vise and use a drill press to drill them. Make sure the drill bit is long enough to drill through the entire spacer. When your done get bolts that are how much ever longer your lift is taller. I made spacers for the front of my bronco that were 2.5 inches tall to give me a total of 6.5 inches of lift.

 

[Broncoholics]

I've them for Bronco's needing the coils leveled out. Most just use a shim under the lower coil cup to level the coil, anything thicker will lift the truck. I wonder how well the new londer bolts will hold up. Some have done this to eliminate the problem.

 

[Broncoholics]

Oops! Wrong photo! :wacko: Here it is...

 

[custom_78]

The longer bolts have held up fine. It's more like a front block lift. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts because of their length.

 

[badtodabone]

Thats cool.

 

[custom_78]

Here's a picture of my spacer.

 

[BLUEovalBELIEVER]

why didn't you just lower the bucket?you don't think that spacer is dangerous?that's no differant than putting blocks under a leaf sprung front.if 4 u bolts aren't safe enuff to hold lift blocks on the front why would 4 bolts?think they might shear?

you did say aluminuim didn't you?what happens at 65 mph and you slam on the brakes?think that spacer will stay?

 

[custom_78]

The aluminum is plenty strong. The bolts are grade 8 hardware so they are the strongest you can get. It should be plenty strong. This isn't permanent though. I am going to get longer progressive rate coils when I can.

 

[Toby the Dancing Bronco]

I disagree with the idea that putting a lift block under a coil spring is equl to block on a leaf spring. True, blocks on a leaf are a bad idea due to the torque of the engine working against gravity, equal and opposite reactions, and the fact the blocks are held on by long bolts that may be pushed to the limit. The front axle is not held in place by the springs, but by the radius arms and track bar. The radius arms already handle all the breaking force, as well as impact energy. The springs only hold the body up (well, hold the tires close to the ground...). Unless there are other problems that cause the Bronco to be unroadworthy, there should be no difference in the risk of a blow out or collision. It is also the usual way coil springs are lifted in articiles in print mags.

 

[Ktomek06]

Nice write-up man! >-

 

[highboy73]

good for you!you can argue the point of half assing something.knock yourself out i think it's dangerous and i wouldn't do it myself.me personally i have 3/4 ton when i want to fit big tires i buy a big truck.they make lift kits to do everything you want safefully you can buy them used anywhere.

nothing wrong with fabricating but like you said it's only temp.if you have an aluminum block how good are the grade 8 bols that go thru it?

be safe not just for you but the folks on the road like me and my kids.

 

[mud slinger]

What is the diameter of the stock you used?

 

[89Bronco58]

me personally would never do that to lift a truck, i would just get longer coils or drop the bucksts down, and i certainly would use steel over aluminum and also make a lip so the coil couldnt slide out, it may be working fine and never break but i wouldnt trust it fully, nice mod tho, looks good and works good from what i can see, id use it on trail rigs only, just my 2 cents >-

 

[Mike @ Tracy]

You Guys know that I cant help but to put in my 2 cents when I get the chance so here it is. Personally I like the idea if not the execution. I have seen MANY new rigs with lift/leveling kits that use nothing more than a piece of UHMW ( fancy plastic compound ) for coil spacers, Jeep,Dodge and even Ford use them. Many aftermarket companies like Rancho use these " POLY " spring spacers as well.

Something to ponder::: Diesel locomotives are held together with grade 8 bolts and most airframes are made out of aluminum. >-

 

[Preach]

I think that they will be stronger then the coil spacers that you can buy after market. The other thing is that I thought that they are supposed to go above the coil not under. That is the way that the after market companys show it.

If you do that kind of lift are you puting your alingment out of line?

 

[89Bronco58]

well i dont doubt so much how strong they are vs. how much smaller in diameter they are to the spring cups

 

[2NDTOUR89]

I had a similar set I made for my 68 and they worked perfectly and to this day (14 yrs later) they are still under the truck two owners later and over 100k miles on them. I agree that all of the force is taken by the radius arms and it is similar to the late model spacers that everyone sells but in my opinion stronger than the poly but might transfer more vibration than poly. I had the poly spacers in my F150 and seemed to work fine as well. Just thought I would share about the longevity and safety of the aluminum stock lift.

 

[Justshootme84]

I know for fact that Custom78's fab skills are superior, even at his young age. Not to argue whether spacers under the coils are good or not, but my 78 Bronco I recently bought has a 1" square, steel block under the front coil seats. The springs are stock, but there is just enough lift with the fenders cut 3" to fit 38's. This is a trail rig only, and would prolly be OK for now. I have not wheeled it yet on any trails, just around the farm. I will be removing these blocks and either installing 4" lifted coils or dropping the upper towers. JSM84