BRAKE LINES

[EXPLORER62]

replacing a brake line in 1995 full size eb bronco - diagnosted problem (cut in line ) - feel confident from the caliper back to master cyl - my only question ?!?!? ( as well as open to any and all info ) is there seems to be a hex nut on both sides of a metal bracket/frame that the line runs through ??? - do both nuts need to be loosed ??? - is one stationary - what sizes are they ( not your professional mechanic w/ standard - metric 10ft. tool boxes - just a safe (1st) shade tree mechanic who loves broncos - any/all info greatly appreciated - first time on !! - much respect to all of the forum !!

 

[89Bronco58]

if im correct, i believe your talking about the bracket that the line seems to run thru the frame in, its actually just a mount per say that holds the line in place, that easily comes off. you said your confident about the caliper to the master cylinder, id say that little bracket is easier to remove, it has a clip behind it, give it some close inspection and you will see what i am tlakign about

 

[EXPLORER62]

if im correct, i believe your talking about the bracket that the line seems to run thru the frame in, its actually just a mount per say that holds the line in place, that easily comes off. you said your confident about the caliper to the master cylinder, id say that little bracket is easier to remove, it has a clip behind it, give it some close inspection and you will see what i am tlakign about

ty - i should say my confidence lies in inspection of the line - run of the line - and presumed disconnection spots at caliper hose/master cylinder, although this being my first line replacement. so the "hex nuts" are just clips and shouldn't be that trivial to remove - ty again!

 

[89Bronco58]

no, where the line meets and goes through the frame, is a connection point, you do not have to remove it from the master cylinder, basically you disconnect it from the caliper, and then where its held to the frame "hex nuts" as you view them, they are actually helded together right there, and there is a clip that locks onto the line/nut right there and holds it to thr frame that way, so do not remove anything from the master vcylinder, just the caliper and the frame mounting spot, be very careful not to twist and or break the lines upon diassembly

 

[snowman74]

If memory serves me correctly, any of the flare nuts on those lines will require you use a special type of wrench to remove the lines. A simple combination wrench will not fit it correctly enough to get it loose or to tighten. I'm speaking of the nuts at the master cylinder and at the wheels...not the hoses, but the steel lines. You should be able to find flare nut wrenches at any sears. The opening looks like a box-end wrench with a cut-out in it for the line to fit through.

Snowman

 

[89Bronco58]

yes those are line wrenches, but regular wrenches did fit on my truck. I dont own line wrenches and had hanges all my brakes lines with regular ones /

 

[snowman74]

yes those are line wrenches, but regular wrenches did fit on my truck. I dont own line wrenches and had hanges all my brakes lines with regular ones /

Good...wasn't sure if you needed them for brake lines or not. I know I needed line wrenches on my chevy (I know, don't say it) when i was replacing the radiator...tranny cooler lines. Anyway, hope it all works out.

Snowman >-

 

[Ski]

I am not sure what line your talking about here, but, I blew a brake line. Where the line goes into the wheel well through a connection then out the other side to a flex hose to the caliper on the back side of the wheel well is where it blew. That line then went to a box that looked to proportion the brake pressure for anti-locking. Anyways, long story short, I had to get a line fabricated because ford no longer makes those lines, salvage yards cut them when they yank the motors. It was expensive as well, one end is inverted flare while the other is regular flare. It was a pain in the butt. THats my story, I hope yours is better LOL

 

[89Bronco58]

yeah lines can be a pain, iw ent out and spent 8 dollars and bought a small tubing bender, it does lines as small as ones for mechanical oil psi guages, and big as fuel lines +, i was able to fabby up my own rear brake lines for the whole rear and the front as well, it works great, good investment

 

[EXPLORER62]

. .jobs done(been done) - ty for all the help/info. - first off I had to use vise-grips to disconnect one side of line at the frame pass-through (major rust, and that was still after two days of soaking it w/ wd-40. To my surprise, other connection point was at ABS unit box (complements of Haynes/Chilton mannys/dvd) and that was removed w/ flare wrench - originally I thought line ran all the way to mstr cyl. As posted prior by Ski, I couldn't get single line from local auto parts dealer, he sold me (2) "soft" lines - hand bending accepted - street/inspection legal - instead of the (1) - which I still have as a souvenier. Reconnection was smooth w/ flare wrenches, bled entire system, stopping on the dime, mstr cyl fluid level staying constent -- i'm barreling down the highway. My only question is, does the two lines (w/flare nut brass compression connection) compromise safety in the line/system versus the (1) line ?? . .auto dealer trusted/used for many parts.??? - would it be better to get (1) line fabricated ? ? ? - again TY for the info !!!

 

[miesk5]

good!

instead of WD..next time use PB Penetrating Catalyst or eqiv brands....will find it +++ better than wd 40....

avail all over...Advance Auto, Pep Boys, Wally Mart.................

or

"Nuts Off"