Bought the 86! Now I could use some help.

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Broncosaurus!

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Idle is not constant, it revs up, then falls and catches itself right before it dies. It stalls out alot, wasnt a problem because the starter used to work, but now I have to jump that relay under the hood every time with a ***** driver to start it after going up this hill. Battery wasnt tied down and i think i pulled a wire or something.

IMG_2570.jpg

 

Big Ragu

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hey bud. sounds like you are having carb problems. you might need too have it rebuilt or replaced. thats

the problem with carb systems, they are not consistent when going up and down extreme angles. this is why

a lot of offroaders opt. for fuel injection systems. also if you dont have at least a half tank of gas this will cause the same problem. now as for your batt. problem sounds like your selenoid switch broke when your batt. yanked on it. I would replace it and GET SOME BATT. HOLD DOWNS!!!! Alot more can go with a loose batt. than just breaking a selenoid, like buring the wire harness or the WHOLE TRUCK!! right to the ground.

I hope this helps bud. OH buy the way CONGRATS ! on buying the truck!!

Ragu

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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Oh yeah bolting down the battery right away. I forgot it wasnt firmly mounted. Oh and it is EFI. wierd part is after its warmed up it will do the rising/falling idle a few times and then settle out at 1000. And the idle problems are on flat ground w/ full tank of gas. I wonder if a vacum hose is cracked?

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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replaced the starter solenoid for $8 and it did nothing. Did I pull a wire out somewhere then? Does the solenoid work like this: power in one side ground out the other, and one little remote wire from ignition to tell the solenoid when to make the connection? So I'm guessing the little red wire that plugs in the bottom is my problem?

This combination of stalling and no starter really sucks, I can handle one at a time, but stalling out at an intersection and having to get out and restart it really sucks, it just happened to me.

 

BLADE262US

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You are correct on how the solenoid works . Now that little red wire you have there you need to get a meter or a 12v light bulb if useing a light bulb take one of the 2 wires and stuff it in the end of that red wire connector and clamp the other end to something metal under the hood vise grips work good here now when you turn the key to the crank position you should see the light light up if not you need to follow that wire back . It goes to the neutral safety switch on the tranny or if a stick it goes to a switch mounted on the clutch pedal from either of these places it goes to the ignition switch mounted to the lower end of the column . I think I would start at the switch if you dont have power out at the solenoid find that wire where it comes out of the switch and make sure that in the crank position you have 12 volts if you do go to the neutral safety if you have it going in and coming out of there then you have a broken wire between there and the solenoid because it doesnt make any stops after the neutral safety switch . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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So basically I could run my own wire to that spot and hook it up to a momentary switch and have push button starting? Like a race car? I think the wire is supposed to be hot since it is red, right? Yeah, it should be, given what you said. Thanks man!

 

BLADE262US

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LOL yeah you could do that I actually bought one one time that the guy had donr that too . I personally would fix the problem but if thats what you want to do its yours . Just be careful if its a stick tranny and you hit that button with it in gear it will move . And red with a white tracer is generally a hot wire in the ford wireing schematic scheme . :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Broncosaurus!

Broncosaurus!

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OK, I will see if I can find a suitable button tommorrow. I've always wanted a push button start, especially for a mean 302... >:)

 

Justshootme84

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The fluctuating idle can be caused by a dirty/bad IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. You should also check out the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) for correct voltage, and last but not least the fuel filter. A HAynes or Chilton repair manual details how ot check these and has wiring diagrams to hel pwith your starter problems.

 

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