ABS sensor issue

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SteveJ

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i have a 1995 ford bronco and my wife took it to have the bearings replaced and the shop she took it to messed up my abs sensor. they refuse to fix it for free. so when i press the brakes when i get below about 7 mph coming to a stop my abs kicks in and my wheel turns to the left.. so i figure its the left side sensor. the abs light is not on. if i unplug the left sensor the abs light comes on and the problem doesnt happen anymore.. but that means my abs is not operating. so i replaced the sensor on the left myself and its still happening.. im stumped

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo,

What damage did the shop do to the sensor?

Without the ABS Amber light On during normal driving, there p[rob is No Coe that we can use for the diagnosis, but try;

4WABS Self Test for using 12 v. light or ABS Light & Test Connector Location; "Locate ABS Test Connector; install 12 v test light between Pins C and E; If no test light is used, ABS warning light will flash; jumper ABS Data Link Connector Pins B and E. 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light...All codes are 2 digits long. 3 to 6 seconds between digits in the same code. 15 seconds between codes. Probably want to run this test at least twice, to get the hang of reading the codes..." read more; - Miesk5 note use Steve83's process for more info

Source: by **DONOTDELETE** at http://forums.off-road.com/ford-67-96-f-series-78-96-bronco/10469-faulty-abs-light-turns-during-commute.html

Post Code(s) found here or look up the pin-point testing for some in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240'>http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240

Vehicle Pulls During Braking http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240

Possible Source(s):

Fully or partially blocked right front inlet (isolation) valve.

Fully or partially blocked left front inlet (isolation) valve.

Improperly adjusted rear brake.

Frozen or binding caliper (one side of vehicle).

Uneven brake pad or shoe wear.

Pinched or crimped brake line or hose.

Amber ABS Warning Lamp On, No Code

Possible Source(s):

Worn or damaged ignition switch.

Open ignition feed circuit to anti-lock brake electronic control module.

Low battery voltage (less than 8V).

Blown ignition fuse.

Open system ground.

Wheels Lock Up

Possible Source(s):

Hydraulic outlet (dump) valve.

Damp or contaminated rear brake shoe linings, stuck/leaking wheel cylinder, overadjusted rear brakes.

Hung-up parking brake.

Leaking rear axle seal.

 
OP
OP
S

SteveJ

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Well i was not there when she picked it up i was out of town. but she said that they told her the sensor was worn out and it looked like it had been melted. when i took it out it did not look too bad. it was not rubbed or gouged or melted.. im not sure what these guys did but it hasnt been right since. whenever i got back home i thought maybe they got grease on it and it just needed to be cleaned off, that was not the case. i'll try the test you suggested. i think this frustrates me the most because it sounds like that shop is a little shady and since ive been stationed here i havent found a mechanic i can trust.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo, I hear ya

Suggest that you find out where police/FD takes vehicles for repairs other than dealer.

Many mechanics will block off brake fluid by using vice grips; so look for Pinched or crimped brake line or hose

dead this http://www.undercarexpress.com/documents/checktest.pdf

& Brake Pull Troubleshooting, General; "...The normal checks include: a) Oil, fluid or grease contaminated friction. B) Unmatched friction — never replace friction on only one side of an axle set. c) Rough surface on one rotor, in comparison to opposite rotor. d) Front end alignment. e) Brake hose or line restriction. f) Uneven tire pressure, size or tire wear characteristics. g) Loose hardware on caliper, mounting bolts, guide pins, etc. h) Worn suspension components. i) Seized caliper piston. j) Excessive runout or parallelism. k) Loose wheel bearings. l) Damaged wheel...."

Source: by Larry H at http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/tt83.pdf

 
S

Stage

Guest
I am having the same problem with my 95, so I tried to replace the front driver sensor but it will not come out???? I pulled the retaining bolt and it will not move,  any ideas. 

 
P

PRERUNNER BRONCO

Guest
I'm having same brk pull issue after replacing frt brk rotors, calipers and pads on my ride. After rechecking tone ring for proper spacing or gap from sensor, brk lines, clean brk fluid etc. I found rear brakes were not adjusted quite right. After rear brk inspection found uneven wear on brk shoes. So this weekend I'm going to replace shoes, brk cylinders and spring hardware.  Brks only pull when ABS light is off, when ABS light is on brakes are smoth and even . I'll let you know after rear brake job the outcome. 

 

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