1996 Bronco Not Planned Restoration

L\Bronco

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I'm way ahead of you. I bought all new bushings, bearings, brake lines, fuel line, gas tank, brake pads, rotors, drums, New steering sector, new steering pump, hoses, new everything. The only thing that will not be new will be the frame, the body and the interior which is why i bought this project, the interior was almost perfect, except for the drivers seat and i later found a new bottom for it. The headliner needed replacing too which none of them make it over a few years anyway.
View attachment 29540View attachment 29541View attachment 29542
That is nearly perfect! I can see why you bought it! She is going to be gorgeous!
I hope you drive the heck out of it when she's done! I'm going really deep with my 79, No rust though, (She's from California) But definitely not the details you are going through. (Nice job!)
You are going to know every nut and bolt in that truck. I've done a couple now, (my 69 mustang rag was the latest before the bronco) She's my daily in the summer.
It's a very special feeling driving a vehicle you personally turned every bolt on yourself! I don't think anyone can understand that till you do it though.
Cheers
Good luck finishing her off!
(The last 10% of the job is often 90% of the work!) Don't back down!
 
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RonnieW

RonnieW

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I definitely agree with the last 10% of the job is the 90% work.. My shop looks like an auto parts store with all the new parts, new nuts and bolts. I don't know if anyone else had to do this, but i have about 200 pictures of things i took apart just so i can remember what went where and what bolt was used. At first i thought i can remember all of this, but the more things i took apart, the quicker I realized my limitations lol.
Bronco Rebuilding Pics (442).jpg
 

L\Bronco

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I'm sure most of us have lived that one! I started using ziplock bags and a sharpie to identify bolt\misc small part locations, it was surprisingly helpful, along with picts.
It was much more difficult before smartphones!
Its also shocking how quickly a project can become a shelf \workbench in the shop!
Again, great job!
Can't wait to see the end result!IMG_3633.JPG
 
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RonnieW

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Wow, 1979 Bronco,, that was my first one to own. I had lots of memories on that one. The only problem i had with it, was the tire rack which latched onto the tailgate caused the mounting plate to bend the body metal on the corner
 

L\Bronco

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Wow, 1979 Bronco,, that was my first one to own. I had lots of memories on that one. The only problem i had with it, was the tire rack which latched onto the tailgate caused the mounting plate to bend the body metal on the corner
Thats really common. This one has a kink in the pass 1\4 panel from it. I love the look, but I'm thinking of losing the bracket to save the body.
(My boys wont let me repaint her because the paint is worn so well and no rust. Apparently that's a thing now?) Definitely a survivor! (I like shiny though)
 

L\Bronco

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Unfortunately, I'm losing the "Easy to work on part" Hopefully still reliable though!QSVZ3077.JPG
 

johnnyreb

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If I am not mistaken. I think their is another member on hear .From the same town you are in. I think he has a 78
You might also look at the bottom of the spring shackles on the back and remember all the gravel and dirt would build up their and cause the shackles to rust out. A good way to prevent that is drill a hole in the bottom center of it.So it can drain and not hold in dirt and gravel.
 

johnnyreb

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Thats really common. This one has a kink in the pass 1\4 panel from it. I love the look, but I'm thinking of losing the bracket to save the body.
(My boys wont let me repaint her because the paint is worn so well and no rust. Apparently that's a thing now?) Definitely a survivor! (I like shiny though)
I read where the outside tire bracket quater panal is suppose to have extra metal behind the brabket. Both of mine are inside.
 

ablediver

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That frame looks real good. Here's a tip from a former rust belt dweller. Up there, they used liquid ice melt . When it melted the frozen snow, it became a slurry that would turn into road spray that seeped into every nook and cranny on ANY steel part. A tried and true, but labor intensive process is to clean the frame down like ( a merit badge to ya' for sandblasting !) you did, or even a brass brush on a drill. Then, give it a week to ten days to establish a slight patina, then use a rust converter. Gempler's (Google it ) is my choice. Put two-three coats with a brush, let dry. Then apply Rust-O-Leum Contractor Grade Gloss Black with a brush, use the aerosol only for very tight spaces. Even in a heavy salt environment, that will last 2-3 years before you need a touch-up. I 've done it to four (4) trucks and the frame and underbody remains immaculate. I've had mechanics complain how they had to use an air chisel to remove the paint on diff. cover bolts (LOL). I don't have any pics just yet, but if you're in the JAX area, I'd be glad to show it off.
Just my $.02
Ablediver out
 

johnnyreb

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Thats really common. This one has a kink in the pass 1\4 panel from it. I love the look, but I'm thinking of losing the bracket to save the body.
(My boys wont let me repaint her because the paint is worn so well and no rust. Apparently that's a thing now?) Definitely a survivor! (I like shiny though)
I agree with you. When I see the patina look. I think of someone who can,nt afford to paint it. Now days some of these paint places charge a outrages price and don,t do a good job they claim. Before I,d pay it--I,d buy the tools and do it myself.
 

L\Bronco

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That frame looks real good. Here's a tip from a former rust belt dweller. Up there, they used liquid ice melt . When it melted the frozen snow, it became a slurry that would turn into road spray that seeped into every nook and cranny on ANY steel part. A tried and true, but labor intensive process is to clean the frame down like ( a merit badge to ya' for sandblasting !) you did, or even a brass brush on a drill. Then, give it a week to ten days to establish a slight patina, then use a rust converter. Gempler's (Google it ) is my choice. Put two-three coats with a brush, let dry. Then apply Rust-O-Leum Contractor Grade Gloss Black with a brush, use the aerosol only for very tight spaces. Even in a heavy salt environment, that will last 2-3 years before you need a touch-up. I 've done it to four (4) trucks and the frame and underbody remains immaculate. I've had mechanics complain how they had to use an air chisel to remove the paint on diff. cover bolts (LOL). I don't have any pics just yet, but if you're in the JAX area, I'd be glad to show it off.
Just my $.02
Ablediver out
Another one that works very well for frames is P.O.R. 15 its amazing and cures rock hard and never comes off. The only downsides are: It fades in the sun, and it's nearly impossible to remove later.
 

johnnyreb

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Another one that works very well for frames is P.O.R. 15 its amazing and cures rock hard and never comes off. The only downsides are: It fades in the sun, and it's nearly impossible to remove later.
So if it got on bolt threads--forget? I always like grease .
 

L\Bronco

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So if it got on bolt threads--forget? I always like grease .
Probably not great on threads, Its got a rust converter in it and bonds to clean or rusty metal, (the name stands for "paint over rust) I think if there was grease on the threads before painting it would be fine.
P.S. it brushes on and flows nicely. (sorry if I sound like an infomercial, I'm just really impressed with this stuff, it stopped the rust in the rockers of my 2011 F-150 Harley-Davidson.) (They use that crap on the roads up here too):mad:
 

johnnyreb

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So if it got on bolt threads--forget? I always like grease .
I have a friend, Who bought a new-the 76 Chevrolet pick up. It started rusting bad in his drive wayand he never drove it any. His dad told him,.When he paid him back.He could drive it. A year later he paid it off and the truck needed body work. The guy took the tail light out of it and shot behind the fenders used motor oil real good. Then when he started driving it.He decided to get it worked on.Painted and body work done. He never told the people what he had done and they never asked him. The body man lit the torch and commenced to (start_) cutting. The oil caught on fire and they had a heck of a time getting the fire out. So if you do body work. . Instead of useing a torch. You might want to ask and use a saw------ instead of a torch. I,ve seen where people will use a torch near gas tanks . Use caution and don,t get in a hurry, Hurry causes accidents--especially where gas can be.
 

johnnyreb

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I have a friend, Who bought a new-the 76 Chevrolet pick up. It started rusting bad in his drive wayand he never drove it any. His dad told him,.When he paid him back.He could drive it. A year later he paid it off and the truck needed body work. The guy took the tail light out of it and shot behind the fenders used motor oil real good. Then when he started driving it.He decided to get it worked on.Painted and body work done. He never told the people what he had done and they never asked him. The body man lit the torch and commenced to (start_) cutting. The oil caught on fire and they had a heck of a time getting the fire out. So if you do body work. . Instead of useing a torch. You might want to ask and use a saw------ instead of a torch. I,ve seen where people will use a torch near gas tanks . Use caution and don,t get in a hurry, Hurry causes accidents--especially where gas can be.
Also these trouble light on the cord. Some guys were working on a gas tank in a gas station. In Summersville a few years back. The light fell--busted and causfgt the place on fire. 3or 4 guys died in that accident.
 

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