1990 Bronco MLPS adjustment or replace?

[BroncoJoe19]

I have a '90 bronco with an E4OD and sometimes I have to hold the shifter high up into park for it to crank.

It's not my DD and I hardly ever use it, so its not real high on my list of things to take care of, but if I remember correctly my haynes manual said that it may be due to a worn linkage. I looked quickly underneath, and didn't have a helper to wiggle it from above, and I gave up.

Again looking at it quickly I didn't see anywhere to make an actual adjustment. Is there a way to adjust it the linkage?

IN this thread

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...st&p=100225

Steve posted a pic of a MLPS with a note of where it is to be adjusted.

Miesk5 stated where I can find additonal info on his site.

So what's the scoop? Without seeing it...

is it likely to be that the linkage is worn, and needs to be replaced.

The MLPS can be adjusted to take out any slack,

The MLPS is getting ******* and I should consider replacing it before I lift the shifter and it still doesn't crank.

Yeah... I know you'd need a crystal ball to see how worn, but I figured, I've seen dumber questions on here.

 

[miesk5]

Joe,

I have the MLPS in the Electrical Section; under, SENSORS

a few Links...

Water Intrusion of Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor TSB 95-2-12 for 89-94

Source: by Ford via miesk5 (Al M) at comcast.net

http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_...d%20for%2089-94

Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055

Connector Pin-Out Diagrams

Source: by Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/754896

No-Start Troubleshooting in a 90; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the solenoid to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. Since it cranks while jumping across the 2 large terminals, you already know the starter & large cables are good. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a solenoid issue (Bad part, bad ground). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD). There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the safety switch, to the small terminal on the solenoid. Disconnect the small wire to the solenoid (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."

Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong

ok, Comcast is allowing me only 12 bits per MINUTE dnld speed today... they blame evryone's PC ot Commosore 64 for THEIR CABLE problems here in da pinies

so. let's try that stuff now

 

[miesk5]

next is the Ignition Actuator Rod

at

http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=624

Tilt or Non Tilt Column?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Thanks Al,

Its a non tilt column.

So I guess I'll have to bring the bronco home this weekend and take a look at it?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

WIth these instructions...

back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736

In looking at the pinout diagram, do I backprobe the Sensor Signal return? OR the TR Sensor Signal?

 

[miesk5]

Let me enter the Link before my conn drops to zero again; http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/mag...ters/index.html

 

[miesk5]

here is the Ford pin=point testing for bronco E4OD..via alldata and justanswer.com

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/paynless...1637_222222.pdf

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Al,

You are incredible!

Not only do I not know where you find all this stuff, but to be able to retrieve it~!

The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS.

THANK YOU!!!

 

[miesk5]

YW Joe, as always.

Sorry that I couldn't Copy & Paste it all for you; I am away today and this PC has a 2009 Conn Speed...lol

I keep thinking that the prob may be at the actuator arm, but you can drill down with the wiring pin point tests as you jiggle that lever... with help of course from the better half!

I really need to get CC to admit they are having problems in da boonies.

I can send them all the Test Results, but I get the same answer.. re-install Windows...lol