yo bronx604,
WELCOME!
Spectre replaced the fuel pump/ gauge sender in this article and dropped the tank using a garage lift; so in driveway, it would be more riskier to get the Bronco up high enough; be safe doing this and chock front tires, use park brake. Depending upon how much fuel is left in the tank; either siphon it into containers or have a local garage siphon and store for you; take a 5 gal contaner w/you home.
Tank Installation: by Spectre
First off. Clean the area underneath to make it easier to work on. You'll be doing this multiple times through out the project.
Dissconnect Electrical connector and all metal / rubber hoses going to the fuel pump (Hopefully your PO's didn't ghettofy your setup like ours did.) Cover them with something to keep dirty out and tuck them out of the way.
The fuel pump lines require a tool to dissconnect them. They are at any local auto parts store and are very inexpensive. Just slide the correct size in there and press in then pull the fuel line back. It might take some effort but it'll pull apart.
Don't forget to undo the filler neck. (I did and was wondering why the tank wasn't coming out)
I undo the straps just so it makes it easier to move the tank around.. Doesn't take much effort to undo them
Slide whatever it is you are going to use to support the gas tank. I like this tool chest because it's almost the pefect height and it has wheels.
Unbolt the 4 bolts on front of the tank that hold the skid plate on.
Do the 4 bolts on the rear of the skid plate. Take note The gas tank will not be supported and will come down if nothing is hindering it.
Once the tank is supported by whatever you use, lift the Bronco so you can pull the tank out (If needed)
Make sure you clean the area. You do not want dirt/debri falling into your tank
Slide the locking ring so you can remove it. I used a ***** driver and hammer/mallet.. Just don't make sparks.
MIESK5 Note; I use PB BLaster or home-made penetrant (see below) & a brass drift (punch Or the plastic end of a screwdriver to avoid a 911 call)
Locking ring free and able to be removed.
Here's a shot of the rubber O-ring (seal, see below) that you need to replace.
Maneuver the fuel pump to get the float and sock out. Be carefull not to drop the sock in the tank.
Undo the 2 bolts and cut the wires off the fuel pump. You need to splice the new fuel pump wires onto the sender unit. (The kit provides crimps for it. Once you have removed the 2 nuts remove the pump from the sender unit.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
This is the way I have found best that works for me.
Fuel Line Fitting Removal at Pump or Filter in EFI; "..Push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16"..." Source: by Steve
Parts; in case
Here are some from our Sponsor here, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-95-fuel-tanks.html'>http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-95-fuel-tanks.html
Sending Unit Lock Ring 2" #30240, New 1980-89 Ford Bronco Price: $5.00
Sending Unit Seal (O Ring that Spectre mentioned), 2", #30241
1980-89 Ford Bronco Price: $1.00
33 Gallon Steel Gas Tank, #30214, 1980-89 Ford Bronco, Steel
2" Sending Unit Hole $105.00
-- Jeff doesn't show the straps; but NAPA, etc should have a universal set
Skid Plate Pads; "...If the pads are beyond re-use, I recommend camper shell mounting tape because it's a closed-cell foam intended for heavy loads with slight movement in an automotive environment..."
home-made penetrant
is a mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid & acetone; I get my tranny fluid for this @ a Dollar Store when on sale for a...
Jeff at the Bronco Graveyard has offered a 2% discount to members of The BroncoZone for on line orders. To get your discount, enter the discount code BZMEMBER. Also you must include your BroncoZone User Name with the order.
http://broncograveyard.com
Installation Lessons Learned
Source: by digitalbill
This may apply if as Ron advised, the tank can be patched and then you can keep it in-place and cut out a floor pan section in cargo area to R&R the pump/ and if needed sending unit for the gauge.
1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.
2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation
3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.
4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.
5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...
6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.
7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.
8: Also, if you read Steve83's writeup, he mentioned that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself.
Cut-out Panel for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 86 Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) via Ryan M (FireGuy50)
& to ensure mesaurements are correct, compare to;
Cut-out Panel Measurements for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 88 Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
Patch Panel, 48 in. x 16 in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard $35.00
or cut one out of any Bronco or simialr years F series; vans may have same floor pan configuration.
