1989 Bronco 2 Fuel Pump DIY Access Panel

[ajbremer]

Saturday - December 3rd, 2022

I bought my 1989 Ford Bronco 2 XLT around 3 weeks ago. I put in new plugs, a couple tires, a fuel filter, oil filter, and oil change. Next will be plug wires, cap, and rotor. It always smelled of gas when it was running and it ran kind of rough, not missing - just kind of sluggish. Even the previous owner said he always smelled a gas smell.

I didn't notice the gas smell until after I replaced the fuel filter. I could tell that the old filter was more clogged than the new one, not a lot - but a little. I thought I didn't snap those plastic clips in the fuel line properly so I double checked them. One of the clips slipped sideways and wasn't seated correctly so I fixed it right and started it up to test it. It wasn't leaking and I didn't smell gas at that location. But when I went to the rear of the Bronco I could see gas running down the tail pipe. I immediately shut it down and investigated further. A long rubber fuel line was resting right on the tailpipe and it had a hole in it and the gas was leaking from there. So then I knew I had to replace that fuel line, it was the one that comes from the fuel pump and goes to the engine. It looked to me like the only way to reach all of that was to drop the tank. I lifted the carpet in hopes to find an access panel (like some vehicles) but there was none.

I cut out the floor and made my own access panel, the video link below shows what happened and what I did - hope you enjoy:

1989 Bronco 2 DIY Fuel Pump Access Panel

 

[johnnyreb]

Glad no one was hurt or killed. Your very luck.

 

[goodO1boydws]

I'd say you were DAMN lucky AJ.

I hope that whoever put that long rubber hose in place didn't do it because there was a problem with that fuel return line further forward, one that may not have been fixed properly either.

Like many others, I did the same access panel routine about 10 years ago on my '86 B2, to replace the pump. (I suspect that many owners in the rust belt do this in large part to avoid removing the tank straps, and risking another potential can of beans.)

After drilling a pilot hole and then a larger diameter hole to check for clearance and location of wires and fuel lines, I used a jigsaw with a very short blade-as much as possible, and a small diameter Dremel cutting wheel to limit sparks in those places where I couldn't saw.
The hole I made was only about 60% the size of yours and if I recall correctly,
I riveted tabs onto the opening and then used some very short blunt ended screws to attach the patch panel to the tabs.

To positively seal the panel opening, and the ***** and rivet holes, I used 2" wide soft aluminum ROOFING tape-the kind that has a very thick backing layer of super-tenacious black mastic. And then laid another layer or 2 of self-adhesive THICK aluminum tape (WITHOUT a mastic backing) over the entire patch and the perimeter area to strengthen the repair and to protect the mastic layer foil from any accidental damage or scratches from above. (Even though I did put the carpet layer back in.)