1986 XLT Power Windows

Hey guys, I've got an 86 XLT with driver side and passenger side windows that won't roll up or down. I've checked the 20 AMP fuse under the steering column, but when that fuse is out the rear glass won't work. Are the rear glass and side windows on the same loop? The rear glass works great from inside or out when the fuse is in. The guy I bought it from said they used to work, then was intermittent then quit at the same time. I'm thinking bad ground, but haven't worked on a Bronco before. Thanks for any help, it's appreciated.

Yo,

Tailgate Ground, Ryan M (FireGuy50) wrote, "1986 Ground 701 Behind Instrument Panel near RH side of Radio..."

Wiring Diagram in an 86 show G752 is for master pw switch

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/Results?Year=1986&Make=54&Model=633&Engine=5.0&WdSystem=15&WdSubsystem=921

Tailgate wiring diagram in an 86 by Ford via Chris B.

http://web.archive.org/web/20051127082437/http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/cbradley/tailgatepowerwindowschematic.JPG

I don'the have the 86 pw diagram.

So I've tried to get the window motor to move off a lawn mover battery. It did nothing. I also tested for continuity but I'm not sure I did it right.

I tested from:

red 1 to black

red 1 to yellow 1

yellow 1 to black

red 2 to blue

red 2 to yellow 2

yellow 2 to blue

this all came back with no reading so, no connection.

I tested from black to the ground loop by the harness connector in the picture just to see and got a reading. Is there anything I'm missing? I want to see if I need to do more than just replace the motors. The weird thing to me still is that they both failed at the same time (per the previous owner). For the system ground lug Behind the radio on the RH side- just didn't know if a picture would make it any easier or if it would matter that the guy before me had an aftermarket deck. Thanks again for the help and I hope the pictures make it easier.

Yo,

The passenger window motor grounds to the driver's door skin (just like the driver's motor), so BOTH switches for that window have to work before EITHER will work. Click this, read the caption, then go to the PREVious & NEXT few:

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/715129

by Steve.

So is the passenger ground on this panel also? I've re-connected the lug to the skin and want to make sure I'm not missing something. The pictures are the green arrow where I connected the ground lug, and what I've been able to test. Am I testing this thing the right way? I'm thinking I should have continuity between the red and yellow on each side since that would dictate which way the motor turns. If I'm understanding the blue and black are both grounds? Should I test from the red and yellow to their respective grounds?

Just took these readings

Yo,

Yes, passenger ground is at driver door.

Yes, voltage test red and yellow wires to ground with switch up, then down, should see battery voltage in both up & down.

The pic showing battery voltage at 13 volts looks good.

Yo,

So we should have battery voltage at light blue/black in right switch.

Ok, found the better info..

Test Readings & Wiring Diagram; "...Normal readings for passenger window test with all switches, connectors, & motors connected normally. The passenger circuit is on the LEFT side of the wiring diagram..." be Steve

http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/448076

See this troubleshooting chart

http://web.archive.org/web/20100922095558im_/http://cardone.com/English/Club/Products/Motors/Protech/Images/930430u.gif

This diagram may help you troubleshoot the problem.  Print it out and take it with you.  Since both windows fail,  If you have battery voltage at the light blue with dashed black wires at both switches and the ground continuity to the master switch is good you probably have a bad master switch.

Good trouble shooting 

>-

If I'm reading that correctly, if I had a bad ground would it not cause the back window to be stuck also? I'm not understanding the blue and black wires should I test those somehow? I know enough to be dangerous but obviously still learning.

Yo,

Tailgate ground is seperate.

Here is correct url for Test Readings & Wiring Diagram; "...Normal readings for passenger window test with all switches, connectors, & motors connected normally. The passenger circuit is on the LEFT side of the wiring diagram..." by Steve

http://web.archive.org/web/20070530115948/http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/448076

Yo,

I locked your original thread, "1986 XLT Misc Questions" @ http://broncozone.com/topic/25291-1986-xlt-misc-questions/?do=findComment&comment=132766

and directed responses to this thread and "Driver side power lock 86 xlt"

Awesome, thanks for the help on the wiring and the heads up on the thread. I'll test that stuff tonight and tomorrow and report back with findings. Appreciate all the help you guys.

Kauffmanbros said:

If I'm reading that correctly, if I had a bad ground would it not cause the back window to be stuck also? I'm not understanding the blue and black wires should I test those somehow? I know enough to be dangerous but obviously still learning.

Click to expand...

Do you see any connection between the door switch and the rear window in the diagram I posted for you?  Even though Al locked the thread, go back and read the last 3 posts.  The one on ground from battery is just to make sure you have a good connection back to battery (-) for your electrical system.

>-

Seabronc said:

Do you see any connection between the door switch and the rear window in the diagram I posted for you?

>-

Click to expand...

No, that's the dangerous but still learning part. I can usually make the diagrams out, but get a little lost sometimes. I tested the red and yellow to the blue and black and didn't get anything. I'm not getting much voltage to the wires as you can see from the pictures .014 V DC. I only get that reading when I go from red to yellow. Every other test: red to black, yellow to black etc is flatline dead. When I take the fuse out of the panel and put the test leads in, the reading goes crazy jumping up and down and changing the decimal all over the place. Should I test from blue to black? My understanding is yellow and red carry the current and the blue and black are the grounds. When you operate the switch it's selecting the red or the yellow and running the current through the motor in the desired direction to make it raise or lower. I also noticed the black wire grounds right to the door skin. The blue wire disappears into the harness. Where is that ground? If any pictures or videos would help diag let me know i'll be happy to do what's needed. Again thank you guys for taking the time to help.

Red and Yellow are the motor leads, not the control leads.  Print out the diagram so you have it when you are trouble shooting.  The light blue wit black dash should have battery level voltage at all times when the key is in ACC or RUN.  If you don't have it there, your windows will not  work.  From my experience, the most likely suspect is one or more of the wires are broken by constant flexing of the door opening and closing.

The color of each wire is listed on the diagram ie. LB/BK D (light blue  with black dash).

>-   

Here is my most recent set of readings (thanks to seabronc for clarification). I have good voltage at the power to ground but when hooked to the motor leads it drops to .8V either way. Any ideas why?

With out actually seeing how you are troubleshooting, I can't give an actual opinion.  However, it sounds like you have one or more broken  or nearly broken wires in the flexible conduit between one or both of the doors and the body.  The reading you are getting could be a back circuit, you will not get the voltage reading at the red wire unless the window switch is in the up position.  Also one of your test leads always needs to be connected to ground unless you are doing a continuity reading.  So any time you are doing a voltage reading in your truck you need to have one lead connected to ground, that would be the (-) lead (black) or as noted on your meter as (com).

>-

Yo Fred and K.

Is Steve's Test Readings & Wiring Diagram...

http://web.archive.org/web/20070530115948/http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/448076

... the same as what Fred's wiring diagram?

If yes, use Steve's Test Readings

Using this tablet is awful, it is very difficult to open 2 docs and compare.. pain killers don't help either.