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MudCountry86

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Hello everyone. I am currently going to be getting a 86 Bronco. From what the guy is saying it has a 351 windsor motor in it. I am not positive of the transmission. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift by rancho. It has a Holley four barrel. Truck is on 35s. I am new to Broncos and absolutely love them. I do want it to be a mud/trail vehicle and also a legal driver. I've been reading up on gearing ratios. I know it has the Dana TTB front and 9" rear. I've also read on here about alignment issues if not lifted properly. I just need some ideas on what to look for when I get it. Common problems and things I need to invest in first. I appreciate everyone's help and look forward to being apart of a Bronco group. THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!

 
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MudCountry86

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Also am curious if this style has the rear bench seat and if the top comes off? And if it does have the bench seat can I get different seats for it and mount them backwards? Thanks again guys!

 

Elmo

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Yes the top comes off yes it would have a rear bench seat from the factory mounting one in there backwards will not leave any foot room in the back. Chances are that the seat will touch the tail gate and be sitting straight on the floor so no where for feet to be. i tried to put some in mine the only way i could see to do it was to mount ONE bucket seat sideways in the back. wasnt worth the effort for me so i didnt do it. 

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo MUD,

As ELMO advised!

Also

Camper Top Removal w/Tool List in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/19630

Lift, one man in an 86
Source: by pantsman at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/492073

bronco-*******-7-18-2006-001.jpg

"My quick, dirty and extremely simple solution to lifting the top off my bronco by myself. I put a bracket on each end of 2 2x4's, set them under each side of the top (after pulling it back from the cab a little), string a ratchet strap from the ceiling at each end of each 2x4 and lift each corner in turn until it is high enough. It is surprisingly easy to drop it back on this way as well. "

=======

Differential, Ford, Overview, all types
Source: by Kenneth at http://badshoeproductions.com/rear.html
Excerpts;
Photo 1 - The 9” rear ends have a removable “hog-head” center carrier and is about 10” from the bottom to the top stud. The 9” was introduced in 1957 and ran to mid 80's.

Photo 3 - 8.8” rear’s have a ten bolt inspection plate on the back that’s about 10” from the center of the top bolt to the bottom bolt center. The 8.8” first saw service in the 79 Crown Vic. and in 1980 for the F100/150.

Photo 7 - The 10.25" used on some Light duty F250 and Heavy duty F150's, 12 bolts on cover and top to bottom bolts are about 11 5/8" apart.

Dana 44 use as front axle on 4x4's also as rear axles on some late 70 F100's. Has 10 bolts, normally has a fill plug on the cover and top to bottom bolt head centers are about 9 1/4".

--------------

Auto Transmission Pan ID

http://badshoeproductions.com/trans.html

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Borg Warner Identification; "...The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tailhousing bolt. This is a 93 EB Bronco1356 ESOF..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/773280

Depictions; 1345, 1350 & 1356
Source: by Ventures Truck Parts and Equipment L.C. @ https://www.venturestruckparts.com/index.php?main_page=transfer_case_identification

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VIN Decoder Chart for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Trucks BEST!
Source: by lmctruck.com @ http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=11

Ask seller if he has a maintenance log and/or receipts.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet? Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny -  look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed according to Ford's maint sched (will look for it later)
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tail gate drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY

If no maint records are avail; check and replace if needed all filters and fluids.
Esp if it is an Auto tranny; fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick.

contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.

- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and frame rust

GL!
 

 
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MudCountry86

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Thanks for the help guys, I ended up not being able to get a trl quite big enough thought we could deflate the tires and run it on a tow dolley, I'm new to all of this so I'm sure as everyone laughs you know how that went. I talked the guy down to 400 off of 1300 he said there was a slight tick in the motor ended up being a good knock. Being pressed for time to get to work I ended up having to leave it at my fathers house 40 miles from me. I can put a different motor in it but would like to just rebuild and keep it the same, il post videos of the noise when I go to get it. Sad part is the two good tires on it got messed up with the whole tow dolley deal. Will post pics for everyone's amusement. Thanks again guys for all your help I will be needing plenty more by the time I get her done!!!

 

Elmo

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Dam man sorry to hear that. I have been there in your shoes. had to squeeze mine onto a trailer ended up with the left side tires on top of the side rail and the right side tires on the trailer deck. Had to tie it down and pay special attention to be sure it didnt slide left . Wide tires and deep wheels make loading these beasts onto standard width trailers with sides almost impossible.

Dont fear the engine they are plentiful used or built

 

Elmo

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how did the tire get in front of the dolly. Kinda reminds me of when i forgot to set the parking brake and rolled my suburban off the FRONT of my cartrailer.

 

miesk5

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yo,

also check for OUTSTANDING RECALLS a\@ http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RecallsPage

Have VIN ready

Overnight I was trying to recall an incident that your plight appeared similar.

Finally, I remembered when I want w/ a friend to see his new Volvo delivered; we got to dealership early and saw it on the trailer ready to be rolled off.  Well, it slipped off the ramp and landed on its side,  Friend was sick; I thought it was a nightmare.

 

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