What did I do with my Bronco yesterday?

[Tiha]

Glad you are off and driving again. Yes it is frustrating when that stuff happens. But it happens to everyone. I do this stuff everyday and I have more trouble doing my own stuff than anything for anyone else.
Why is that? I am certainly trying to use the best parts for my stuff and I seem to have more trouble than those using the cheapest parts.

Sounds like they did their best to make it right.

 

[goodO1boydws]

Welcome Steve.

First, don't beat yourself up about the price for the trans rebuild.
My 1986 4WD B2's trans. (the same one that came out went back in) cost that much plus tax to do--2 1/2 years ago.
And they only did the trans -no radiator or lines were replaced.
(It did come with a 2 year unlimited mileage full coverage warranty from them including any needed labor.)

About that SEAM leak.
Having experience the same problem myself, here's how I fixed it, its so simple that its hard to believe they haven't done it, and then pressure tested the cooling system-to check for any problems.

First, know that there is a thick, resilient gasket between the side tanks and the core. The aluminum tabs are there to compress the gasket.
So (in my mind) the obvious thing to try is to tighten them to compress the gasket more in the area where where its leaking.

So, what I did was just that and the leak stopped-and the entire cooling system was pressure tested-by me. Actually,it took 2 tries, because I was being conservative. Thinking ahead, I slightly tightened ALL the tabs.

Once the radiator was out of the vehicle for proper access, I took a good pair of Vice Grips with flat faced jaws (actual brand) and with them gradually increased the tension until I could get a repeatable setting for the "crimp thickness" of the existing maximum amount of compression the tabs had. Some of the tabs took more "hand squeeze pressure" than others to close the wrench, so before even doing any adjusting, the gasket was most likely physically thicker/less compressed at those.

OK, so then I marked the adjusting k-n-o-b on the wrench to index it for a starting point, and VERY SLIGHTLY increased the pressure adjustment. (It was by something like 1/4 of a turn at a time.) I worked around the radiator on both tanks, closing the wrench on each one-and being sure to check that the setting didn't change.

The first time I went around the tanks, there was a very noticeable variation in hand grip pressure needed to close the wrench. So I took that as meaning some were still looser than others. Tightened the wrench SETTING by another increment, and went around the tanks again. That second time the hand squeeze pressure needed to close the wrench was within a much narrower range.

Being a conservative type, I reinstalled the radiator, filled the cooling system and did a system pressure check at 2 psi ABOVE the radiator cap's specification. The leak was MUCH SLOWER, but was still there-coolant just barely oozing out. So I took the radiator out and reset the wrench to the next incremental adjustment and once more did all the tabs, reinstalled the radiator and redid the pressure testing, saw nothing leaking. Came out in 10 minutes and the pressure was holding steady. Put a big piece of corrugated cardboard under the engine compartment, checked to see that the front carpet was dry, and came back in an hour-still no change. Came back a few hours later-still no change. Checked the next morning-pressure holding, dry cardboard and carpet.

That was about 8 years ago.
I've changed heater cores, heater hoses, radiator hoses, even the thermostat, gasket, (and radiator cap too, I believe) since then. Still no radiator leak.

That reminds me.
Have the radiator cap pressure tested too. (I had done mine-it was ok)

If a system is, for example, supposed to have 12psi cap and there is a 15psi TESTING cap on it, (even a malfunctioning 12psi cap) whenever the engine gets warm the system is operating at a higher pressure than it is designed to hold.
OVERPRESSSURE can easily cause leaks, and if a radiator tank's gasket compression just happens to be the weakest link in the pressurized system, that's where it would leak.
Overpressure could even do that to a NEW radiator .

 

[mikefamig]

Welcome Steve.

First, don't beat yourself up about the price for the trans rebuild.
My 1986 4WD B2's trans. (the same one that came out went back in) cost that much plus tax to do--2 1/2 years ago.
And they only did the trans -no radiator or lines were replaced.
(It did come with a 2 year unlimited mileage full coverage warranty from them including any needed labor.)

About that SEAM leak.
Having experience the same problem myself, here's how I fixed it, its so simple that its hard to believe they haven't done it, and then pressure tested the cooling system-to check for any problems.

First, know that there is a thick, resilient gasket between the side tanks and the core. The aluminum tabs are there to compress the gasket.
So (in my mind) the obvious thing to try is to tighten them to compress the gasket more in the area where where its leaking.

So, what I did was just that and the leak stopped-and the entire cooling system was pressure tested-by me. Actually,it took 2 tries, because I was being conservative. Thinking ahead, I slightly tightened ALL the tabs.

Once the radiator was out of the vehicle for proper access, I took a good pair of Vice Grips with flat faced jaws (actual brand) and with them gradually increased the tension until I could get a repeatable setting for the "crimp thickness" of the existing maximum amount of compression the tabs had. Some of the tabs took more "hand squeeze pressure" than others to close the wrench, so before even doing any adjusting, the gasket was most likely physically thicker/less compressed at those.

OK, so then I marked the adjusting k-n-o-b on the wrench to index it for a starting point, and VERY SLIGHTLY increased the pressure adjustment. (It was by something like 1/4 of a turn at a time.) I worked around the radiator on both tanks, closing the wrench on each one-and being sure to check that the setting didn't change.

The first time I went around the tanks, there was a very noticeable variation in hand grip pressure needed to close the wrench. So I took that as meaning some were still looser than others. Tightened the wrench SETTING by another increment, and went around the tanks again. That second time the hand squeeze pressure needed to close the wrench was within a much narrower range.

Being a conservative type, I reinstalled the radiator, filled the cooling system and did a system pressure check at 2 psi ABOVE the radiator cap's specification. The leak was MUCH SLOWER, but was still there-coolant just barely oozing out. So I took the radiator out and reset the wrench to the next incremental adjustment and once more did all the tabs, reinstalled the radiator and redid the pressure testing, saw nothing leaking. Came out in 10 minutes and the pressure was holding steady. Put a big piece of corrugated cardboard under the engine compartment, checked to see that the front carpet was dry, and came back in an hour-still no change. Came back a few hours later-still no change. Checked the next morning-pressure holding, dry cardboard and carpet.

That was about 8 years ago.
I've changed heater cores, heater hoses, radiator hoses, even the thermostat, gasket, (and radiator cap too, I believe) since then. Still no radiator leak.

That reminds me.
Have the radiator cap pressure tested too. (I had done mine-it was ok)

If a system is, for example, supposed to have 12psi cap and there is a 15psi TESTING cap on it, (even a malfunctioning 12psi cap) whenever the engine gets warm the system is operating at a higher pressure than it is designed to hold.
OVERPRESSSURE can easily cause leaks, and if a radiator tank's gasket compression just happens to be the weakest link in the pressurized system, that's where it would leak.
Overpressure could even do that to a NEW radiator .

Nice save!

It makes sense that crimping it tighter would work as long as the rubber seal is in good shape. What you are doing is probably very similar to the manufacturing process except that you are doing the stamping one or two fingers at a time instead of all in one shot.

I put a pressure tester on the system this morning and found that the radiator is looking good but other spots in the system do not hold 13lb cap pressure. I found some small leaks that were fixed by tightening hose clamps but there is some coolant seeping from the front of the intake manifold now.

It think that the new radiator and 13 lb cap are creating higher pressure than before the work was done and making the new leaks appear. I tightened everything that I could and I plan to put a 7lb cap on it to see if that fixes it. I understand that the liquid will boil at a lower temp with less pressure but I think it will be OK.

Mike.

 

[johnnyreb]

Nice save!

It makes sense that crimping it tighter would work as long as the rubber seal is in good shape. What you are doing is probably very similar to the manufacturing process except that you are doing the stamping one or two fingers at a time instead of all in one shot.

I put a pressure tester on the system this morning and found that the radiator is looking good but other spots in the system do not hold 13lb cap pressure. I found some small leaks that were fixed by tightening hose clamps but there is some coolant seeping from the front of the intake manifold now.

It think that the new radiator and 13 lb cap are creating higher pressure than before the work was done and making the new leaks appear. I tightened everything that I could and I plan to put a 7lb cap on it to see if that fixes it. I understand that the liquid will boil at a lower temp with less pressure but I think it will be OK.

Mike.

You might also want to check on the TYPE of solder and paste you are useing. Have you tried silver solder with silver paste. ? That might be the problem its leaking.

 

[johnnyreb]

Yes your right. What makes me so mad is getting bad new parts from China or the parts people --that have no mechanic knowledge---try and push their junk on you. When you show them the problem. You might be better off going to a junk yard and getting a good brass radiator for your bronco. Even the pick ups are the same. Just check the year,motor and stuff like that. Just keep a eye out for snakes.haha or a junk yard dog too.hahaha Good luck

Welcome back Nota and Miesk. Hope you all are feeling alot better and everything is going good for you all.

 

[johnnyreb]

I fired it up. Gonna get a timing light and hope to time it tomorrow. If it doesn,t rain. And take some stuff out of it.

 

[mikefamig]

Nice save!

It makes sense that crimping it tighter would work as long as the rubber seal is in good shape. What you are doing is probably very similar to the manufacturing process except that you are doing the stamping one or two fingers at a time instead of all in one shot.

I put a pressure tester on the system this morning and found that the radiator is looking good but other spots in the system do not hold 13lb cap pressure. I found some small leaks that were fixed by tightening hose clamps but there is some coolant seeping from the front of the intake manifold now.

It think that the new radiator and 13 lb cap are creating higher pressure than before the work was done and making the new leaks appear. I tightened everything that I could and I plan to put a 7lb cap on it to see if that fixes it. I understand that the liquid will boil at a lower temp with less pressure but I think it will be OK.

Mike.

So I've driven it for a week with the 7lb cap and it is not leaking but I'm still considering having the intake manifold replaced and have them clean up the throttle body while they're there. I'm a little concerned that it will start leaking into the oil galley under the manifold and also that it is corroding that corner manifold bolt even though it is no longer leaking externally.

I need to sleep on it for a while before deciding. Maybe I can start a debate here, would you change it if it was yours or just let it go with the 7lb cap until it starts losing coolant again.

EDIT:

BTW it drives great with the new tranny! I swear it feels near new.

 

[Tiha]

So I've driven it for a week with the 7lb cap and it is not leaking

Smart.

Any time I talk to someone that has a leak, first thing I tell them is loosed the radiator cap and keep the pressure off. Most of the time it stops the leak or slows it enough to get them to safety.

As long as you are aware and watch your temps, no reason to get in a hurry fixing it. But also I live in cooler climate.

 

[mikefamig]

Smart.

Any time I talk to someone that has a leak, first thing I tell them is loosed the radiator cap and keep the pressure off. Most of the time it stops the leak or slows it enough to get them to safety.

As long as you are aware and watch your temps, no reason to get in a hurry fixing it. But also I live in cooler climate.

Yeah, sometimes I am a little CDO (That is OCD in Alphabetical order). I would like to know if it is right.

 

[chrlsful]

leave off the "D".
It's how the machinist gets the job done. Here we can B a lil more lax.

U can keep ur eyes on this issue as it's how the problem developed with PO. I'd use the tranny dip stick like those suspecting HG leak. Also I like the ol oem radiators and just put 1 in my bronk due to 70% displacement increase.

 

[mikefamig]

I'm concerned that the corner intake manifold bolt is corroding even if there is no external leak with the 7lb cap.