Weird Idle and Acceleration

[Csalvetti]

I have a 1990 Ford Bronco With the 5.0L and recently it has started to idle really rough and stall out when at a light. source of the problem i was negligent and over filled my oil so then the oil went up through the breather tube and into my intake. but i replaced the filters and spark plugs and ignition coils because they needed to be. but now my engine will idle fine but sputter when i put it in gear. Please HELP this is my daily driver and i have no other vehicle as my brother just wrecked my jeep.

 

[miesk5]

yo Csalvetti,

WELCOME!

Does engine die when placed in gear?

RUNS ROUGH - MISSES - BUCK/**** - HESITATION/STUMBLE - SURGE - BACKFIRES System Possible Causes Visual/Mechanical EEC Some sensors/their wiring, etc. will provide a DTC Air/Vacuum

• Check vacuum lines for leaks or wear.  see vac leak test below
• Check air intake system.

• IAC solenoid
• MAP sensor
• TP sensor
• IAT sensor

Fuel Check for correct fuel pressure.

Eng Running 28—45 PSI

Key On - Engine Off  35—45 PSI

Maximum fuel pressure is obtainable at WOT or the vacuum hose removed from the fuel pressure regulator

Grounding the FP lead at the DLC will allow the pump to run continuously with the ignition switch on.

• 
  
  
• Check for fuel contamination/quality.
• Check fuel filter.

• HO2S(s)
• Fuel Pump System:
  FP circuit
• FPM circuit
• FP relay

[*]FPRC solenoid
[*]Fuel Injection:

• 
  INJ 1, 2 (MFI)
•  

Ignition

• Check for correct base timing.
• Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor.
• Inspect spark plugs and plug wires/routing
• Inspect ICM for damage.

• Ignition System:
  PIP circuit
• SPOUT circuit
•  

Power and Grounds

• Check for generator/regulator noise interference.
• Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses.

• EEC Power:
  VREF

[*]EEC Grounds:

• 
  SIG RTN

Other

• Check engine coolant level.
• Check thermostat for proper operation.
• Check EGR valve sticking.
• Check PCV valve for correct operation.
• Check for restricted exhaust.
• Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
• Check for broken or weak valve springs.

• ECT sensor
• EGR Systems:
   EVP sensor (atop EGR valve)
• EGR solenoid(s)

[*]EPC solenoid
[*]TCC solenoid

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?&pid=74587&mode=threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER        

==========

Vacuum Line Acronyms, leak test & gauge pic

 http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

  see post #11

 

[Csalvetti]

Thank You, I will have to check these out but I Recently discovered while just checking things when i unplug two vacuum line from the intake manifold the engine, while idle and in park, balances out and runs perfectly, although when put into drive and gear, it again reverts to loping and sputtering and eventually dies. i have it a shop located a block from my home and they are running diagnostics and troubleshooting for me. Any Ideas on what it could be? with the further details i have provided?

 

[miesk5]

yo C,

The  vacuum lines & associated components need to be checked and replaced if defective.

 Also, it depends on how much oil got into the intake manifold and if spark plugs were coated again.

 The code check may help narrow it down.