Valve Cover Gaskets

[Bebop Man]

I've decided to finally address an oil leak I've got. I thought it was coming from the rear main seal, but a mechanic put it on a lift and said that's not it, it's coming from one of the valve cover gaskets.

On the 5.0 EFI, do I have to remove the intake manifold to get access to the valve covers? Looks like there's a ton of stuff in the way.

 

[zintrex]

on my truck you have to remove the upper intake to get to the valve cover on the passenger side.

and i have a 5l efi engine out of a 89 mod, and i think all the stock 5.0L efi engines are the same on bronc's

so it depends on if your leak is on the drivers side or passenger side, but personally i woudnt change the seal on one side only.

the job itself isnt really hard, but its a bit of work, so it all depends on how comfortable you are working on a engine.

but if you decide to take off the upper intake i have a small tip for you. ductape over the lower intake holes.

last summer i managed to drop a nut down in the intake wo noticing, Result: total engine overhaul w new pistons.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Good advice by the Z man!

It is possible to remove covers on the 5.0's w/out removing da upper plenum, but as Z advised... why not take care of all of them while you're there now, sep w/the EGR valve, it's tube, etc.; esp this quote from following article; "...Disconnect the large nut from the bottom of the EGR valve. If you didn't spray it with a penetrating oil, you should spray it now and then take the rest of the day off..." I use PB Blaster, etc. and some heat from a torch helps.

Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

also;

Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0; "...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center ***** out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net

[Gasket Installation, Upper & Lower in a 91 5.8 Source: by Meixter (Cookie Monster) at SuperMotors.net"]http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/3367/13691[/url]

Gasket Removal TSB 93-23-14 for 88-93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others

Availability of New Silicone Gasket & Sealant TSB 98-7-4 for 84-96 Bronco; 84-98 Econoline, F-150, F-250 HD, F-250 LD; 84-99 Super Duty F Series, etc. Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com

ISSUE A new Silicone Gasket And Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA) material is now available for routine engine service or repair of engine oil leaks.

ACTION Use the new Silicone Gasket And Sealant for servicing:

Oil pan gaskets and T-joints

Intake end seals

Overhead cam caps

Valve and timing covers

Bearing split lines

Side cover plates

Rear oil seals

The new sealant has better adhesion, flexibility for moving/vibrating joints, resistance to fluids, and is easier to dispense.

NOTE: THIS MATERIAL IS NOT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR A SILICONE RUBBER, GRAPHITE, OR OTHER TYPE OF PRE-FORMED GASKET.

for other Component removal Links look in my broncolinks.com site under Engine

 

[Bebop Man]

Yeah, I've swapped heads before, so I have no problem taking a wrench to the valve covers. I was going to do both sides anyway , but I wanted to get an idea of what I was in for before starting. Is this a 15 minute job in my driveway, like it was my old corolla, or is this a full weekend in a garage, like my Bronco II?

Sounds more like it'll be a couple hours on a day with decent weather.

 

[Seabronc]

On the driver side probably a 15 minute job, but the passenger side will take a few hours.

good luck,

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