The last couple of things, needed........

[Bob Smell]

Well, it hasn't run since 2002, when a valve's head came off. The 400 engine is in, and it has flattops, and adjustable 351C two-barrel heads. I'm working on the MSD installation now, and waiting on a Be Cool fan, to get unloaded from a ship. Maybe, in the spring, it will be at a cruise in!

 

[miesk5]

Yo Bob,
Hope you get the Fan soon and get it all together prior to cruising days!

 

[NotaVegetarian]

Wow looks awesome

 

[johnnyreb]

Well, it hasn't run, since 2002, when a valve head came off. The 400 engine is in, and it has flattops, and adjustable 351C two-barrel heads. I'm working on the MSD installation now, and waiting on a Be Cool fan, to get unloaded from a ship. Maybe, in the spring, it will be at a cruise in!

That looks like my bronco--with the sliding windows on the side.

 

[NotaVegetarian]

Any updates, more pictures

 

[johnnyreb]

What kind of mileage are you expecting ? What kind of fuel will it be running? This ethanol gas sure will be bad for it.

 

[Bob Smell]

It runs! However, it doesn't stop! Does anyone know, where I can get new, 1978 backing plates?

 

[muddrivermike]

If you still have a ford 9 inch. Youd be better off changing to disc in the rear.

 

[Bob Smell]

I found a thread about brakes:

http://www.broncotech.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000933.html

It says to use a 1978 F350 4WD, or 2WD booster, and master cylinder. I'm going to use the kit, from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/630604/10002/-1, and this adjustable proportioning valve: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63022/10002/-1. I, had bought a proportioning valve, from eBay, for a disc/drum application, and I'll take the spring out of it, to make it a distribution block. All because, I can't find backing plates!

 

[Bob Smell]

I, have now converted to rear discs. The tech person--at Jegs--said that the stock steel wheels would work, and they won't. The stamped steel center, hits the caliper. The 1978 Western Wheels Cyclone II's won't work either! So, I made the Cyclone II's work, by grinding off the excess material, on the calipers. The vintage slotted mags, will also fit too. The brake booster, master cylinder, combination valve, line lock, and proportioning valve, are now installed.

 

[Bob Smell]

Additionally, the tach adapter is installed; so that, the vintage Sun super tach II tach, will work.

 

[johnnyreb]

It runs! However, it doesn't stop! Does anyone know, where I can get new, 1978 backing plates?

Try Green Sales near Cincinatti,Ohio. Just type it into the address bar and hit enter. They have alot of old new parts . Good folks to deal with too.

 

[johnnyreb]

Try Green Sales near Cincinatti,Ohio. Just type it into the address bar and hit enter. They have alot of old new parts . Good folks to deal with too.

Also watch their videos---they have alot of parts

 

[Bob Smell]

I, cut the front springs a total of two, tightly-spaced coils, and this is the result. I'm going after the 1978 Jeep Wagoneer look. The front axle, barely touches the Milodon oil pan, at this height. The rims, are 15 x 8-1/2, and the tires are 255/70R15.

 

[johnnyreb]

If the oil pan is barely away from the axle. Have you thought when you hit a hole too fast.? You could have some serious damage. Have you thought about getting 2 wheel drive springs. Coils do ride smoother and if you decide to put something heavy in it.You could get the shocks that have the coil springs wrapped around them. They are pretty stout and ride good.

 

[johnnyreb]

I, cut the front springs a total of two, tightly-spaced coils, and this is the result. I'm going after the 1978 Jeep Wagoneer look. The front axle, barely touches the Milodon oil pan, at this height. The rims, are 15 x 8-1/2, and the tires are 255/70R15.

Picture 2. Is that between the axle and frame? Can,nt really tell

 

[johnnyreb]

Picture 2. Is that between the axle and frame? Can,nt really tell

Take a measurement between the axle and oil pan--that is important. Remember when your driving and all of a sudden hit a deep hole.That axle will come up . They are too hard to get off with very little clearance between the motor and axle. You might have to unbolt the mounts to get it off and you don,t want that. Make it as easy as you can and you,ll be alot happier too.

 

[Bob Smell]

I, had a roller rocker stud break, during break-in. I, also have all of the intake pushrods, hitting/rubbing the intakes' roller rocker. Additionally, on cylinders five, and eight, the pushrod rubs the hole going through the heads. These heads, were converted to adjustable rockers in the mid eighties, by Engine Machine Specialties, in Clarksburg, WEST Virginia. All of the studs, are now replaced with slightly short ones, to allow the roller rockers' fulcrum, to ride on the OD of the stud. The intake roller rockers, now have added clearance, that was performed with a Dremel. The rubbing of the intake pushrods--on the five, and eight cylinder heads' holes--is so slight, that I'm just going to monitor it.

 

[Bob Smell]

The inner springs, are now installed after the break-in period. The Howards solid lifters, have an oil hole lasered in them, to lubricate the cam's lobes. A universal valve spring compressor, won't install a dual spring with damper, and lever-type is needed. The booster, and master cylinder, had to be removed, to facilitate this.

 

[Bob Smell]

After twenty years, it moves under its own power, again! The hood, will be reinstalled, and collector car insurance, will be bought. The title, will be transferred from WEST Virginia, to Ohio.