Tailgate Key Lock Cylinder

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Skitter302

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The Tailgate key, to operate the window, doesn't work on my Bronco. I put the key in and it spins 360°(s). So now I have enough money for the part to fix it. Question is what is the correct part? I can't find anything in the broncograveyard.com and my searches on eBay come-up with parts that might work but I'm not too sure... Finding the Lock Cylinder is :blink: :wacko: to me. Any help locating this part is welcome :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Edit:

IS this it? Link Looks to me like one of the driver/passenger locks.

 
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Skitter302

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Another thing too... Can anybody here take pictures of the inside of the tailgate. I just looked at the inside of mine and I think I'm missing some wiring but I don't know for sure.

 

Seabronc

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It is not the cylinder that is at fault. You are missing the little part that operates the switch. Check in the bottom of the tail gate, you may find the parts there. I can't promise, but I may have the parts you are looking for in my gaarage. I will check my misic. small parts box when I get home tonight.

Also don't have a picture for you, but the harness that enters through usually has a set of leads to attach to the defroster contacts on the window, a set of leads that go up to the switch operated by the key cylinder, and a set of red/yellow leads that go along the bottom of the tail gate to the window motor.

Good luck,

 
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Skitter302

Skitter302

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Thanks Seabronc, I'm gunna take that panel off again and look for the leads you just described. I'll post my findings :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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Skitter302

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It is not the cylinder that is at fault. You are missing the little part that operates the switch. Check in the bottom of the tail gate, you may find the parts there...

... the harness that enters through usually has a set of leads to attach to the defroster contacts on the window, a set of leads that go up to the switch operated by the key cylinder, and a set of red/yellow leads that go along the bottom of the tail gate to the window motor.

Good luck,
So here is what I found.

I have no wires stray wires in the tailgate. <_< The red and yellow wires end in that spliced section on the right of the picture. My Defroster leads are all their. (the tab on the window is broken so it doesn't work but the wires are their none the less)

And according to what you describe, I am indeed missing the little part that operates the switch. :(

IMG_0042sml.jpg


IMG_0042sml.jpg

 
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Seabronc

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From looking at your picture, someone trashed the harness. Probably to make it operable from the front. Your least expensive option is to get a harness from a junk yard and take all the pieces with it that attach and operate the switch from the cylinder.

PG64.jpg

 
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Skitter302

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Well, bummer... Looks like a trip to the wreaking yard is in my future. Thanks for all the help Seabronc
smile.gif


 
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miesk5

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yo,

Sorry for delay,

but Fred got you on right track

Lock Cylinder Component pic in 78-96; "...The parts might be OUT of factory order, but they'll still work as shown. The switch assembly (permanently attached to the t/g wiring harness) fits around the part in the insets..."

Source: by Steve

tailgatelockparts.jpg

Harness detailed pic

tailgate Harness detailed pic.jpg

Tailgate Harness Overview

Tailgate Harness Overview.jpg

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

 

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Skitter302

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Now I know what I'm looking for! THKS!

 

miesk5

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Was wondering if you might have pictures miesk5. How are you doing on the recovery?
Yo FRED,

Slow, but sure Fred, ty for asking!

Still on Walker and Home IV anti-biotics; better-half can do this well, so I am fortunate to have her as my wife!!!!

Had X Rays of ankle and no one called me from Doc's Office not to not to walk, so that is good! UNLESS they effed up as the hospital did and completely iggie my ankle pain (PT folks didn't care about it, all they wanted to do is say they showed me how to use da walker)

Enuf of my moaning & groaning!

 
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Skitter302

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Has anybody done a Keyless Entry System for the rear window?

 

miesk5

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yo SKITTER,

A few techs that I asked in 1997 (was installing RKE, PW/PDL etc in my 96) said it can be done;

here is an alternative

Switch, Key By-Pass (Constant Power for the Tailgate Window); "...I'd like to share with you what I did for my rear window, and many of you folks may have already done something similar. I too was tired of having to have a key to always open the rear window. So, I schemed up a way to power the window at all times from the dash switch without having to splice a single factory wire. I have a dual battery system, and a 1-in/6-out auxilary fuse block behind the glove box, (I cut away a small portion of the back wall of the glove box to accomodate this). The auxilary fuse block, of course, runs off the auxilary battery, at least when the truck is off. So, I first took a fuse, (any old fuse) and blew it. I then put the blown fuse in the factory fuse block in the position for the rear window fuse. Now, the window is obviously not getting power from my main battery with a blown fuse. I then took one of those little power taps (these are little clips which are specifically made to clip around an ATO style fuse) and put it on the "dead" side of my blown fuse (i.e. the side which is not supplied from the ignition switch from the main battery). I then connected one end of a 12 guage wire to the fuse power tap with a female crimp on connector, and ran it across the dash over to my auxilary fuse block. I moved the original mini circuit breaker over to my auxilary fuse block to retain stock amperage protection. Whala! My rear window now works independent of the ignition switch, it draws from the auxilary battery when the car is off, and as an added bonus, my door windows are obviously on the same circuit as they now work all the time too. I have been using this setup for several months, on cold days when the window doesn't want to move and hot days, with no problems. I didn't have to splice a single wire, so should I need to return to stock, it would take under 3 minutes to reverse the above steps. Some of you have probably done something far more sophisticated than this, but I thought I was pretty clever for thinking this up, and that's not a feeling I have often..."
Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.

 

miesk5

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yo,

I saw someone, sixer, I believe looking at this thread so I figured I'd add some TG Defroster & Lock Cyl and associated parts diagram & pics.

Defroster Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct)

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

http://broncozone.com/topic/19828-tail-gate-wiring-diagram/

Tailgate Switch Paddle

tgswitch3.jpg

When the tailgate lock cylinder is turned, this paddle arm swings around & presses the appropriate switch button.

tgswitch4.jpg

When the key is removed from the tailgate lock cylinder, the paddle is in the center.

tgswitch1.jpg

Tailgate Window Switch

The switch is actually 2 SPDT microswitches which aren't designed to be separated from the harness. They're riveted to the casting that slips over the lock cylinder, with a cover plate on top.

Tailgate Safety Switch

Y/R is NC to Pu/LG

Br/Bk (Tn/Bk) is NC to Pu/LB

When a switch is depressed by the key lever, the it opens from the Purple wire & closes to Bk/Wh.

tgswitch5.jpg

The safety switch breaks the circuit (open) between the DOWN switch (right side) and the motor so the glass can't be moved when the latches are open. Since the latches can only be opened when the glass is fully down, this keeps the glass from being raised while the tailgate is open. If the tailgate was closed with the glass up, the glass would shatter against the camper shell lip.

Instead of defeating the safety switch, the tailgate should be aligned so the latches are fully closed. For a writeup on installation & alignment, read this thread.

tgswitch2.jpg

Tailgate Switch Wiring Colors

These wires are not intended to be removed from the switches, and the switches are not intended to be removed from the mounting plates, so the t/g internal switch is essentially a part of the t/g wiring harness assembly.

When using the key to LIFT the glass, the Pu/LB wire provides ground thru the dash switch. When LOWERING, the Pu/LG wire provides ground.

by Steve

==

 

KYbronco3

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I bet I'm missing that part too....and my inside switch is gone too I believe....either that or I don't know where it is lol....can someone send me the wiring diagram for the interior switch....I have a P/g P/b Bk wire cut off where the switch should be

 
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miesk5

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yo

Wiring Diagram, Dash Switch Test & All TG Connector Locations Diagram in 92-96

Source: by Steve http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/692844

"...The Bronco tailgate window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. Each switch has its own power feed; the dash switch through the ignition switch (key-on only) and the tailgate key switch from the battery (always hot). The dash switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the key switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor (assuming the latch switch is closed). When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position..."

Read More

A remote can be added to the sys; however I have not heard of anyone doing so, YET

Switch, Key By-Pass (Constant Power for the Tailgate Window); "...I'd like to share with you what I did for my rear window, and many of you folks may have already done something similar. I too was tired of having to have a key to always open the rear window. So, I schemed up a way to power the window at all times from the dash switch without having to splice a single factory wire. I have a dual battery system, and a 1-in/6-out auxilary fuse block behind the glove box, (I cut away a small portion of the back wall of the glove box to accomodate this). The auxilary fuse block, of course, runs off the auxilary battery, at least when the truck is off. So, I first took a fuse, (any old fuse) and blew it. I then put the blown fuse in the factory fuse block in the position for the rear window fuse. Now, the window is obviously not getting power from my main battery with a blown fuse. I then took one of those little power taps (these are little clips which are specifically made to clip around an ATO style fuse) and put it on the "dead" side of my blown fuse (i.e. the side which is not supplied from the ignition switch from the main battery). I then connected one end of a 12 guage wire to the fuse power tap with a female crimp on connector, and ran it across the dash over to my auxilary fuse block. I moved the original mini circuit breaker over to my auxilary fuse block to retain stock amperage protection. Whala! My rear window now works independent of the ignition switch, it draws from the auxilary battery when the car is off, and as an added bonus, my door windows are obviously on the same circuit as they now work all the time too. I have been using this setup for several months, on cold days when the window doesn't want to move and hot days, with no problems. I didn't have to splice a single wire, so should I need to return to stock, it would take under 3 minutes to reverse the above steps. Some of you have probably done something far more sophisticated than this, but I thought I was pretty clever for thinking this up, and that's not a feeling I have often..."

Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy)

 

KYbronco3

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I pulled the panel off the tailgate and all but 2 wires are cut....seems I have bigger fish to fry

 

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