Suspension and rust protect questions

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RichWooten

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I am in the process of rebuilding from the ground up a '74. Frame is stripped, axles off, body off, etc. When I rebuild, should I lift it any? It will be a daily driver (in the Chicago area), so I wonder about ride and drivability if it is too lifted. Any thoughts on lifting? Also, with the sandblasting of the frame, axles, etc., taking place soon, what is the best thing to do to protect all that work from rust in the future since it will be driven in the lovely Chicago area? Just talking frame, axles, etc. Body questions to come later :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.

Thanks. This is my first rebuild and I definitely don't want to mess it up at this point!

 

Rons beast

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If the budget allows,Powder coating is the best coating for the frame and suspension. If not a good epoxy paint and maybe undercoating for your area.

You might look into a spray of that bedliner material, Rhino, or one of the others. It just could mess with clearences and make it a bear to get some parts back together.

If you're not using the truck off road, I would not lift it. Some people like the look, but if you drive it on the highway and normal paved roads, as I do my Beast, then stock is perfect. I'm toying with actually lowering mine. Something different!

It's your ride. Make it what you want. Just enjoy the experiance, and post some pics.

Good Luck.

 

S_bolt19

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If you can't afford the powder coat, I would use POR-15 for the frame & underside of the body. POR is a Using a spray in or DIY bed liner will make the tub really heavy. I would reserve that for the interior once you get it back on the frame if you are inclined to use one. As far as a lift goes, that all depends on what you want to do. The new lifts from Bronco specific companies (i.e. Wild Horses, Duff, BC Broncos, Toms, etc.) are much better than original suspension parts. That being said, a 2" lift will not alter the handling on road as much as you think. Stay away from companies like SuperLift, Sky Jacker or Rancho for your suspension. They just don't have the ride or quality that one of the EB vendors has in their springs. Most all of the companies use Daystar for their bushings, so that is not a big deal, but the springs & shocks are what makes your ride rough or handle poorly. Get a good quality shock (Rancho 9000, Procomp MX6, Bilstien or the likes) and your ride will be very nice, no body roll and handle nicely, much better than original.

 

AdamDude04

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I would personally clean/remove ANY rust on any part and when peices are put back together with cab off) bedliner the whole thing. As long as no rust can grow under the bedliner (hence the remove it all part) then you will have one tough frame that will probably never come loose :ph34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

This is my plan. I know the weight could be an issue.. but look at the trade off. Soemthing that lasts forever and a reason to get a beasted motor :-"

 

S_bolt19

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Not to sound mean guys, but let me clue you in on how much heavier just the hood will be if you spray or roll a bed liner on just that alone....Try about another 20-25 lbs on something that doesn't have any springs or pistons to help it raise up like your big Broncos, and that is if you do it right and to a quality thickness. In all honesty, if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't spray the underside of any body panel with bed liner. I sprayed the underside & the inside of the tub with Herculiner. It is a professional look & same thickness as Line-X, easy to clean up (just hose it out) but it doesn't matter if you get the surface rust out or not, it will rust unless you let it sit in a heat controlled garage for a couple of weeks to let it dry out and let the excess water that is in the panel joints evaporate. Even then, you run the risk of rust. The easiest & best for the undercarriage is using the POR-15. You can brush it, roll it or spray it. It has a nice gloss finish, is oil & water resistant and costs less to coat than the bed liner does and all that without the added weight.

And if you have ever done any type of speed in an EB, you won't do it again [-o< Not only are they the same aerodynamically as a brick with a sail on them, but just plain scary at anything over 75. You big bronco boys got an advantage over us EB guys in the slip stream department :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Rons beast

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dang...the reaction here is unexpected. The last sentance of the original question was, "just talking frame, axles, etc. Body questions to come later."

I suggested the bedliner stuff for just that, the frame and axles. The extra weight there would actually lower the center of gravity. ( although I would not reccommend bedliner for that purpose.)

Sure the POR-15 is cheeper and a great choice but there was no referance to cost in the post.

 

Seabronc

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Good luck on your project. Get rid of as much rust as you can find even to the extent of replacing metal. I've spent the last 14 months on my 83 FSB doing just that, hope to finish some time this Summer. Every time I think I have it all taken care of I find another little place it has started. If you do a good job, it will be a few years before you find a rust spot again, but one thing is sure, rust will never lose the battle. In the words of someone I can't remember, "Rust never sleeps". I can't think of many areas of the US, outside of a desert, that wont encourage rust, especially like the North East. The minute I relax, I find it creeping up. If you drive it on the road in, any but ideal conditions, you have set the clock ticking some place on the vehicle. You will need to be on constant vigil for rust no matter what you do. Sounds negative, but it is true. Water can seep through the tiniest hole in your armor. Last week I noticed two pin head size rust spots on the front fender where the inner fender and outer skin touch. You wouldn't believe the amount of rust that was under there, "the top of the iceberg", so to speak. I had to remove the fender and cut all the welds to clean it up.

I have done some drastic stuff on my truck in the battle,like metal replacement, cut welds to clean up seam rust, borrow a section of a 95 tub, etc., but I expect rust will raise it's ugly head again. As far as coating, I have treated all the areas I can with rust inhibitor, sealed, painted, undercoated and in some cases sealed the undercoat with paint to give it a harder surface.

Don't be discouraged by my post. Just a reality check and hopefully aid in temporarily winning the rust battle. Just keep in mind, if you keep it on the road, you will need to be constantly on the lookout.

Good luck,

:)>-

 

bigbluebronc

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I am sorry you have so many rust issues, I live in a california desert area. Once a year I pressure wash the rig, let it dry out for a week and spot paint with rustolem type paint, and that is only for rock dings and cali pinstriping and axles that got dragged. My rig is rattle canned so I am sure it looks shiney from your house across the country haha!!! I have had good luck with the pqr in the past. I would not bedline a whole underside either...

BBB

 

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