Slow Starter

[BigGuy957]

I have a 67 Bronco with a 302. In the mornings she fires up proudly. When I stay on the road for about an hour or more and the engine temp rises (it doesn't overheat) it takes some cranking time to get it started again. I replaced the starter with a high torque starter and added a voltage regulator to increase the amps to the starter but still haven't found the remedy. Any suggestions??

THANKS!!

 

[Seabronc]

I have a 67 Bronco with a 302. In the mornings she fires up proudly. When I stay on the road for about an hour or more and the engine temp rises (it doesn't overheat) it takes some cranking time to get it started again. I replaced the starter with a high torque starter and added a voltage regulator to increase the amps to the starter but still haven't found the remedy. Any suggestions??THANKS!!

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Some engines are a little touchy when hot and easily flooded. When mine is hot it will flood if the gas pedal is pushed prior to cranking.

>-

 

[Bully Bob]

EB's & I believe 302's in general, are notorious for vapor lock... especially here in the So. Nevada desert.

I had one quit several times on a slo-n-go rocky trail...I turned around & while returning to town, (eng. temp at top of normal range) on a slow, flat dirt road, it quit & wouldn't start.

:angry:

10 min. of cool down & it fired right up..?

I'm no expert on this but, I've been told an aux. elect. boost pump solves this. :-B

Oddly, its never happened again, other than a year prior in Death Valley.......the eng. quit, I switched tanks & it fired up.

When I got home, I discovered the tank it quit on was nearly 1/2 full.

BTW--both tanks, fuel pump & lines were clean/new.

 

[BigGuy957]

EB's & I believe 302's in general, are notorious for vapor lock... especially here in the So. Nevada desert.  I had one quit several times on a slo-n-go rocky trail...I turned around & while returning to town, (eng. temp at top of normal range) on a slow, flat dirt road, it quit & wouldn't start. 

:angry:

10 min. of cool down & it fired right up..?

I'm no expert on this but, I've been told an aux. elect. boost pump solves this.  :-B

Oddly, its never happened again, other than a year prior in Death Valley.......the eng. quit, I switched tanks & it fired up.

When I got home, I discovered the tank it quit on was nearly 1/2 full.

BTW--both tanks, fuel pump & lines were clean/new.

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Thanks for the info!! Your situation sounds exactly as mine. I live in MD and even during the cool months it has given me trouble but the summer has become an ongoing struggle as to whether I choose to drive the Bronco or the "not as much fun" second car. I am presently installing new tanks, new lines and electric switch (I don't think the fuel tanks are the problem, I'm just upgrading to bigger, cleaner tanks).

Any ideas on where to buy the proper aftermarket boost pump?

 

[Bully Bob]

Summit Racing has some good pumps....even some auto parts stores have them.

In series, I believe the elect. needs to go before the mech. & it needs to be a "flo-thru" so the mech. pump can pull fuel thru it. (this would act as a "boost pump" when needed, with an on/off switch.)

This is what we have in our airplanes, for take-off & landing..!

NOTE; some elect pumps are really high press. & req. a return line to tank.

A "non flo-thru" pump can go in "parallel" ...going around the mech. pump with "T's" before & aft of the mech. pump. again, with a switch.

These are suggestions...I haven't had to do this.... You need to talk to several shops & mechanics 'til you're comfortable with what you decide.

Lastly, it's not an expensive mod....as an auxiliary boost pump, (not runn'n full time) it doesn't have to be a high dollar one.

HTH

Bob

 

[Seabronc]

Yah, you can get a low pressure pump. For a carbed engine you want one that is in the 7 PSI range.

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[S_bolt19]

What ever you do, if you replace the lines, go back with steel. Dont do rubber lines that the auto parts store employee will tell you is just fine. Rubber doesn't dissapate the heat, which will cause vapor locking. I had this problem with my '48 Willys and when ever the mercury got to 85 or higher, I carried a jug of water w/me to douse the lines and **** the vapors for a few more miles. I have never had that problem with my EB. The other thing you should do is to make sure that the fan shroud is tight and maybe get a better 7 blade fan if you are still running the original fan. The fuel lines & the pump are right in front of that fan and with a better fan, it will help cool it down when it gets to the engine. But if you are going with new tanks, do yourself a favor and spend the money on steel lines or really clean the old steel lines so you can reuse them. The headaches of vapor locking in the middle of nowhere are worse than anything....especially if it is hot and you cant move!