Resto Mod?

[scubachris]

Hey fellows. I have some questions.

1) What is the benefits to converting a Bronco to the Cummins diesel? Besides towing, I can't see any advantages. Better fuel mileage is offset with higher fuel price. Has anyone actually done this, and do you feel it was worth the process?

2) What is the newest engine/transmission combo that can be dropped in an 84 Bronco with the least amount of modification?

The reason I ask this, is I was looking at vehicles to replace my Bronco as my daily driver. After test driving way to many vehicles, I realized that new cars ****. Their belt lines are to high, some back windows are just for show, and they have no chrome or two tones. What I did like was the handling, ride, and not worrying if a part is going to go out.(If it does it is covered by a warranty) So I decided to restomod my Bronco. I wanted to get ideas, and opinions on the route to go. Upgrading the engine, transmission, wiring, and suspension is what I intend to do. Leaving the exterior and interior alone( restoring it to original).

Thanks

Gents

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Scub...,

IMHO

"benefits to converting a Bronco to the Cummins diesel?"

In a word "NONE" For example., the extra weight on the nose is just wrong on so many levels.

"What is the newest engine/transmission combo that can be dropped in an 84 Bronco with the least amount of modification?"

Just about anything you can imagine...hopefully Ford products.

HOWEVER., the electronics, sensors., computers, etc., make this an engineering challenge, to say the least.

Your rig can be cleaned up/refershened for 1/5 the cost of eng./trans swaps. And wayyyyyyy less headaches.! @-)

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Some swap diesels in due to diesel availability (never know what someone will sell the engine for now) and "uniqueness" and torque (for off road/mudding).

I have a bunch of swap LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=834

As BB mentioned, it is ezier to upgrade what you have in there; but I have a Swap section @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=541

such as for example (see my site for hot links to each):

351 Roller Installation w/ EFI in an 85

Source: by Josh B (magnumpi, Big Blue Beast) at SuperMotors.net

302 to 5.8 Swap in an 83

Source: by Marginallystable

 

[scubachris]

Thanks

 

I talked to a guy in Houston who does Restomods....we talked about swapping my engine for a newer ford engine. I told him what I wanted. Which is a brand new truck that I feel safe traveling in. Then I told him how much the A/C sucks in the summer. So we came up with either keeping the 302 or going to a newer engine with a better A/C system, and fuel economy. I don't know if y'all live in the South, but I might as well just not have the A/C on. All wiring will be changed from steam to stern. Mechanical will be updated, and vehicle will under go a restoration.

 

We even talked about converting the engine to EFI....we will see.

 

As for the Diesel, I ruled it out completely. To expensive to run, and American engines aren't up to Europeans.

 

 

 

[Bully Bob]

Yeee-Gads...!!!

Paying someone to do this...??? All well & good..., you give no cost BUT.,

with all the "extra" problems one runs into.., I would guess you could buy a brand spanking new 4x4 SUV/APV that gets 18+ mpg ...smooth, cool, quite, for the same or less.

THEN., you could tinker with the FSB for weekend fun (DYI)

Guessing here but, what you're talking is in the neighborhood of $20-25K

parts & labor. Plus several months W/no veh.

Also guessing., this "guy in Houston"..... has he given you any figures.?

Best of luck...keep us posted.. >< <'>

 

[miesk5]

yo,

Am interested in the plan when you get to that point as well as the build-up.

Here is one o(I call it that);

1978 by Quint C (Quints Bronco Project) - transformation w/2004 F-150 Supercrew 5.4 Triton engine, transmission, firewall section, dash, transmission cross member mods/mount mod, wiper mod; diamond plate, paint, fuel tank & pump replacement/mods: steering column mods, master cylinder & ABS valve assembly, ps cooler, hood latch, frame mod for AC compressor, brake flex lines, VSS, Detroit Truetrac® installation pics, power window installation

Project Goal: Transform a 1978 Ford Bronco into a modern SUV without the $35,000 price tag.

Disclaimer: Do not attempt any of the procedures shown on this site. Improper modification of vehicles can lead to serious injury or death. This is not a "how-to" instructional site. The reader (that's you) accepts full responsiblity for any damages or injuries resulting from following the steps documented on this site.

General Status of Project:

The transformation of the bronco is nearly complete. It is essentially a 2004 F-150 in a 1978 bronco body and frame with solid axles front and rear. I'm driving it daily to and from work with almost no issues. ABS is fully functional. Once the seats are installed I can start thinking about carpet which should make the project look much more complete. Please take some time to look through the site. Virtually every part of the project has been documented with pictures. I even have a selection of video clips if you don't mind downloading a 2 Mb file.

========

And how about a custom dash?

Dash/Instrument Panel Fiberglass & Carbon Fiber pics (a product)

Source: by mcneilracinginc @ http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/dash

Also see their 1980 to 1996 Conversion Fenders 6″; 1980 to 1996 Conversion fenders 3″; Quarter Panels 1980 Conversion to 1996 One Piece; Pricing – Per set • Fiberglass Fenders: $350 • Short Bed Fiberglass Bedsides: $500 • One Piece Fiberglass Front Clip: $900 • Latches: $25 ea

orPerry's Fab N Fiber Off Road Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber Dashes(I think they are same company now)

 

[nelbur]

I suspect that your problem with your A/C is due to something being wrong with it rather than a problem with the design. If your '84 has an orifice tube system like my '86, the clutch cycles to keep the evaporator from freezing up. Too much cycling due to a low charge, gives poor cooling. With a properly functioning system you can put out 40 degree air, and if the pressure switch is set too high you can make ice in the evaporator. It seems likely that your A/C just needs to be tuned up by an expert.

 

[scubachris]

Miesk5,

I will keep touch when I start the project. It won't be till after the fall semester. Still thinking of keeping the 302 just because of the ease to work on. Time will tell.

@Billy Bob, I don't like to work on cars. Would prefer to work on vintage motorcycles instead. This is just a way to keep the vehicle I love on the road. The figure he quoted me was 15,000 if I keep my engine. Well below the price of a new Jeep Wrangler.

 

[miesk5]

yo Chris;

If still hot there; try installing a shout-off valve in heater hose inlet to core (driver's side hose at firewall; see diagram at end.

This will help shut off hot coolant flow thru core in hot weather.

Such as,

Core Bypass Valve Installation in an 88; "..it "bypasses" the heater core when you turn the outside air off, as it says on the control panel for A/C use. it stops the hot coolant from flowing through the heater core. I dont know if this happens in other trucks but in mine the hot heater core would cause convection inside my truck letting hot air to flow around inside, not very satisfying during summer or if the A/C is on. the basic hardparts are: the valve out of a jeep, almost any jeep has one

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa212/happylarry_2007/heatercoreswitch001.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa212/happylarry_2007/heatercoreswitch006.jpg

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa212/happylarry_2007/heatercoreswitch007.jpg

note:these "valves" come in different orientations to where the bottom hose connector points so watch out; four hose clamps size at least 1 1/4"; about 15" of vacuum hose and a T or Y connector and two vacuum connectors. Its a simple install, make sure you dont have coolant in your heater core lines, find a good spot for the bypass (valve) and cut the line for the bottom inlet out of the heater core; the top line from the heater core should be about 1'' shorter for the valve to stand up right; cut the other half of the coolant lines to length; now cut the vacuum line going to the inside air/ outside air actuator and make a 3 way connection to include the new valve..."

Source: by 88rustsurvivor

&

Core Bypass Valve; "...put in a $9.99 Murray non-bypass which opens and closes the heater hoses. All I can say is it was about 95 degrees when I made my highway run and it was nice and frosty in the cab. Part number is 74612 at Oreillys..."

Source: by kingjason

some just pull hose off of core inlet and insert it into outlet at wp or fitting

see this Chilton Diagram

 

[scubachris]

@miesk5....It isn't that my A/C doesn't get cold, it is that it can't keep up during the day with the Louisiana heat. Left a thermostat in one time and I got a reading of 210. I did change the blower motor, and that helped some. I think some good tint will help. The good news is my truck was inspected,no major rust, except the tailgate. January 2 the truck goes in to get repainted, weatherstripped. Midnight Blue/White two tone. After the outside is done tint will go on the windows. I am lucky that my interior is in pretty good shape. Although later on I want to add insulation to the inside.

I have decided to keep the engine, and do the mechanical myself. The 302 is a good simple engine, and I can work on it with ease.

Will keep y'all posted.