Rear Intake Ports for better water flow

[Broncoholics]

I finally decided to port the rear of the intake where water doesn't flow.

I drilled and used a pipe tap and brass fitting for a good seal. Then came out with hose into a T; off to the heater hose to another T. I'll run it tomorrow, the neighbors wouldn't like a 12am wake up call... Should keep the tamps down. :-"

 

[Broncoholics]

Hey, anyone done this mod yet? I connected to the heater hose thats connected directly to the water pump in hopes of more water pressure than connecting to the intake manifold. I've seen photos of others connected to the intake just after the thermostat. Anyone know the direction of water flow for best results? I'd hate to have back pressure in the line. I know I can start it up and watch water fly but I don't need the mess.

 

[Seabronc]

Typical water flow is into the engine block from the water pump then back thru the intake manifold to the radiator. I don't think I would hook it up to the radiator side of the Tstat as that would bypass the Tstat function. This design also seems to prevent some of the water from going thru the intake, is that the idea? Where did you get the info on it, I'd like to take a look at it.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Broncoholics]

I do realize water enters the block and both heater hoses will do the trick. But...

On the water flow, doesn't it travel from the top radiator hose into the intake which has the Tstat and then enters once it opens? Then it flows thru the motor, then thru the water pump and back into the bottom radiator hose?

If this is correct then how would connecting to the intake cause problems with the Tstat if its after it?

I also think this is cooler water off the intake since it just came out of the radiator. Connecting to the water pump side would be slightly hotter after traveling thru the engine. But maybe not... Is there more pressure if I connect directly to the pump than the flow off the intake? Just trying to find the best route and the coolest.

 

[Seabronc]

I do realize water enters the block and both heater hoses will do the trick. But...On the water flow, doesn't it travel from the top radiator hose into the intake which has the Tstat and then enters once it opens? Then it flows thru the motor, then thru the water pump and back into the bottom radiator hose?

If this is correct then how would connecting to the intake cause problems with the Tstat if its after it?

 

[Broncoholics]

Thanks for the clarification, I had a feeling I was ass backwards!

Good thing you are on this web site, you sure know your stuff!

Looking at your drawing, it looks like the Y is pulling water out of both the rear motor/intake ports I made and the heater core. They both then enter into the return heater hose which connects to the intake.

You also said not to connect to the intake as it will mess the Tstat up.

I can see the problem with this but I think its my only option. The pump is obviously pushing water into the heater core and returns into the intake. I can see a T being a problem if its sucking water out of the motor and heater core at the same time. I'll see if I can find a Y. I would think the Tstat would be OK and open once the motor gets up to temp anyway. I think I'll connect the Y between the heater core return line and the heater control valve so I can turn water flow on or off by the dash ****. With it closed off, water will not flow right?

Prpblem now is I get answers both ways. Some say water has to be pushed into the rear of the motor and others say pull it up and out. Which way is the flow wanting to go?

 

[Seabronc]

OK, there still seems to be some confusion over the direction of water flow, so one more time.

1. The water flow is from the bottom radiator hose thru the center of the water pump thru the engine block, up thru the heads from rear to front and then back out to the upper radiator hose.

Note: I am making some assumptions based on my idea of how this modification is supposed to work, since I have not actually seen pictures of a completed one.You have never given me a link to a site that shows one installed

Note: I can see two possible ways to hook this arrangement up.

1. The way I mentioned before by putting the Y in the return hose from the heater (the one that is attached on the engine side of the Tstat), this will draw (pull) water from the Tap. I would expect this to put water back to the radiator that hasn't been heated by passing thru the heads and reducing the temperature of the water comming out the bottom of the radiator.

OR

2. If you want to introduce (push) water, that has NOT been heated by going thru the engine block, to your tap, then you need to reverse my previous usage of the Y. In other words put the Y in the hose that that supplies the water to the heater (the one that attaches to the water pump)(bottom of the Y toward the water pump). This is from the pressure side of the water pump.

Of the two possible arrangements I see number 2 as the least possible cause of problems such as robbing the heads of sufficient water flow. Also, I don't see any real advantage to this over installing a Heavy Duty radiator and possibly a Transmission AND/OR an Oil cooler.

Hope that helps!

Good luck,

>-

 

[Seabronc]

PS, I don't think I would put the Y where you have to operate the heat control valve to make it work. It seems to me that arrangement would make the inside of the truck sort of hot.

>-

 

[Broncoholics]

I got ya. I figured it would work in both directions as long as I'm using a Y and its drawing the water from the back. I'll go to Fittings, Inc. and find a Y. I would like to connect off the water pump heater hose and have it travel thru the heater core and back to the intake. The problem I see here is if the heater control valve is closed this modification is doing nothing. I usually keep it open anyway to allow water to flow thru the heater core in hopes of more cooling.

Or should I By-pass the control valve like stated and connect to the intake side.

What do you all think?

I realize this doesn't do as much cooling as a larger radiator but I don't have the cashola right now. These parts and pieces only cost $50 due to the tap, dill, 45 deg hoses, clamps and fittings. Seems like a cheap gamble.

Sorry, no web site I heard edelbrock.com has a write up but I can't find it.

This is from seeing it years ago and people saying it helps.

Thanks for clearing it all up for me, I just don't like to do things twice you know what I mean. >-

 

[STLKIKN]

Here's a third possibility/ option...

And this comes to me as I sit here with an old Edelbrock streetmaster in my lap /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

If you have a temp gun (I think you have one for your R/C don't you??)

Use the new fittings as a by-pass, don't tee them into anything... just a straight across fitting arrangement.

Check the temp of the heads from side to side and front to rear like that.

Compare them to any readings you may have already taken.

*edit* hmmm...

scratch that maybe.... I just crawled across the basement and looked at a bare block and heads I've got sitting here too.....

Maybe hook one to the heater in, and one to the heater out... creating a positive flow through pattern??

* new edit*

hmmm nope, I'm just gonna stop typing now and go sit in the corner thinking about this for a while.... how to create a positive flow AND increase cooling... scratches head...

 

[Broncoholics]

) That funny, I was in the same boat you are in a few days ago. Water will draw from both left and right sides out the one T fitting at the same time. Then out to the Y into the hose entering the intake. I don't think it would be a good idea to have one pushing water and one pulling water through the motor. But who knows cycling like that might work but for some reason I think it would fight the main water flow. I think its all trial and error until its right. I still think the Y is the way to go like Seabronc stated. Water travels from the bottom up.

 

[Broncoholics]

OK... I talked to Edelbrock tech support cause a friend said they have an intake like the mod I did if you don't want to drill and tap (#3721).

Scroll down to view... http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive...d_sb_perf.shtml

Only this is for EGR carbs only but its an option.

He claims what I did is a usual modification these days and works well.

He even said there is no need for a Y (drawing water) when it enters the heater hose cause there is enough water pressure that will be pumping out of the back of the engine I could use a T. He likes the idea of the Y and thought it would help so you don't get cross pressure. They have always used T's with good luck. That about sums it up...

 

[Seabronc]

Thanks, but the link doesn't seem to work :-&

>-

 

[Broncoholics]

Ahhh ***** sorry thats not right, try this...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc...d_sb_perf.shtml

Scroll down to the 3721. Not sure where water exits out the front. Most have the Tstat and exits to the radiator.

I tried to get a Y but knowone has them in brass or metal only plastic which I don't want. I used the T for now since water has pressure out the rear manifold and it doesn't matter which heater line to connect to as water will travel in the direction of flow anyhow. I entered the return line to the intake.

Seems so simple now that I know that there is indeed pressure on the back and I don't have to draw the water out. I still like the Y idea, I'm going to make one out of metal tube and weld it up for better flow.