Rancho 2.5" lift on an EB Question

[genthree]

I was going to IM you, but I figured that others my benefit from my questions....

Couple questions for you about your EB....

I am assuming it was a Rancho 2.5" lift from the sticker on the bumper...  You like it?  Single shock?  You like the 32's?

Did you do anything else when you did the lift?  Drive lines, drop arm? C bushings?

Is it a factory U-13 or did you use inserts?  If inserts, whose did you use?

Who's doors are those?  I love those....  

I just about have my doors ready to paint, but I am really considering making a u-13 out of it.....  Now that I have a 4th driver in the family though, this may become my daily driver instead of my "fun" car....  If so, I will put the hardtop on and finish the doors, and install the heater.  Winters get cold in Medford.....

I had a TBP 2" lift on my 69 and all I did was a drop arm and C bushings to run 33's.....  I haven't lifted this one at all.... Thinking about it really hard!!!

Sorry, the pics are from my son's graduation photo shoot....

 

[Bully Bob]

No.., that sticker was put on the bumper by a friend as a joke.

I've never seen a Rancho lift on an EB.  But, I've heard rumors it's not the best way to go.

I do have dual shocks on the front. However, that's not necessary with todays quality shocks.

Another story is that duals were promoted as a way to sell more dual mods.., in that it really

wasn't necessary even back in the day. All my other EB's had single & I didn't notice any

difference.  There may be some advantage in rock crawling..?

On my 3rd set of 32's. They work well with the 456 gears & great on hwy. or in the rough.

"Did you do anything else when you did the lift?  Drive lines, drop arm? C bushings?"

Strangely YES..!  However, you've probably read some of my posts stating ea. rig seems to

be different, even the same years. 

My 2.5" lift is the TBP lift with the 11pk rear springs. It's great & most of the EB stores have

pretty much the same one.

-I had to add tapered shims on the rear spring pads to make the driveshaft angle happy.

-I had to add an adjustable TRACK-BAR to make all the steering geometry happy.

-I had to take it (front end) apart again to go up to 7deg. "C" bushings to get the caster right.

-Didn't have to do a dropped pitman arm -or- a dropped track bar bracket as the  drag-link

and the track-bar came out parallel.

It is an orig. factory U-13 (It's on the VIN tag & the title)

Believe it or not, those doors were on it when I bought this rig eons ago. I only run them in winter.

The top is fairly new. I got it at www.Wildhorses4x4 They have the same doors.

They come in 3 styles now. 1/2, full, & full with clear on the lower half of the door.

The doors have a frame & a cover. The covers are replaceable if damaged.

All the EB stores have the inserts & I believe they're all pretty equal.

My rear radius arm bushings exploded way back when.., that's the reason I did the lift because

I had to take it apart. I'm glad I did the lift now but, glad I didn't go any higher.

We're at 2500 feet here & it gets cold in the winter (low 30's). With the top & doors on, it stays

pretty toasty even with the heater on low.

I run bikini top & doorless in the summer.

Think that's about it...

hope this helps.,

Bob

 

[Jake69Bronco]

Genthree what are your fender flares?  The PO of my Bronco cut a lot away and I've tried bushwhacker fender flares but they were too short, I'm don't want to have to replace the body panels and then have to cut away again if possible.  Thanks.