not sure where post tech. or diss

[hotrodmanIII]

ok bear with me here grammers bad , hope you can under stnad what im trying to get acoss

ok right now i got a 83 ford F 100 stepside ,you know with the wood bed short w/base.

i been haven thid truck since 2001 i changed amlost every thing i got a hot 351w in it with edel alum heads fmx trans its got a 8.8 rear i put a limited slip in it with 3.27s i get 12 mpg hiway that **** that motor i had in it was 351w .060 over flat tops i had 10.7 to1 compression , i had solid roller cam in it with rpm intake head are edel rpme too.has headders..o cam specs where 246/256 .050.lift was .601/.588 and got 12 mpg hiway with 3.27s i tryed a 1850 holley still got 12 mpg my 3310 750 go tthe same thing

ok i throw i rod in that motor V

so built i mild 351 .040 over with hyd cam 204/214 .050 lift .447/.474

with perf intake .600 carb i even took the 2800 stall out of it ..it gets the same mileage hi way 12 mpg..o the head on this motor are e7's with the exhast **** ported out..

so i built a 408w now it on the stand ready to be put in.

spec are

408w 9.5to1 compressiom

eagle cast steel crank

sir rods

kb pistons

heads are same edel rpms 202/160

intake is rpm edel

im going to run the 3310 750 on it

cam is another cam motion solid roller specs 231/236 .050 lif is 591./.544

i ws going to pu this in my 83 f100

but now i just got a 88 ford bronco full size 4x4

its got 302 with blown head gasket whick i just changed it not finshed getting it running yet ,little more left to do.

i did this to see if every thing working on drives good

it got an aod trans with the transfer case.

im new to the 4x4s

i got a discion to make you think it should put the 408w in the 83 f100 .or put it in the 88 bronco?

the bronco has aod i think its got 3.55 in it ,i think an aod has a .67 od. that makes find drive 2.37

so do you think i will get better than 12 mpg with the 408 in the bronco?

i lkie haven a bed in my 83 p/u im not sure about the bronco has for hauling large stuff?

what should i put the 408 in

i like the bronco cause it got more room , well back seat plus if i haul motor in the rain they wont get wet if it rains

p/s how does the 4x4 work? it hae 2h/4l , 4h and N.

whan i lock the hubs in the front i can still turn the front drive shaft at will . it like the ft whell arent locking up? or does the wheel have to be moving? that what someone told me? dunno?

changing the fi to carb is no prob for me ..thw 408w in the bronco should get more that 12 mpg on hiway right?

what gal gas tank is in the bronco?

please give me soem tips im new to this 4 x 4 ..thanks sorry so long,i hope you can make out what iam trying to say..thanks gary!

 

[Justshootme84]

If your looking for optimum gas mileage, I think the 302 would do better than a stroked 351W. 11-12 mpg is avg and about all you'll get with a heavy rig like the Bronco. In my opinion, the AOD may not be able to handle the extra power of the 408, aside from all of the work of converting to a carb. And I deleted your other post. Please be patient and the replies will come , JSM84

 

[hotrodmanIII]

If your looking for optimum gas mileage, I think the 302 would do better than a stroked 351W. 11-12 mpg is avg and about all you'll get with a heavy rig like the Bronco. In my opinion, the AOD may not be able to handle the extra power of the 408, aside from all of the work of converting to a carb. And I deleted your other post. Please be patient and the replies will come , JSM84

i dont like 302's i got a 408w i just built..
last night i finshed up the headgasket..its gettingno fire, whick it run before i took it down , it was late so i didnt get to check voltage to the coil etc.

but i noticed a big grey connecter female side , that appears not to be pluged in to antthing?

and another on the pass side? the one that plugs into the egr vavle , this other one that gose to nothing , plugs into it to . or you can plug them together . i got all the grounds hooked up . like i said at ran last week ? no spark! now!

i might have to take pics of these plugs for you ? do they have plugs that dont plug inanywhere?

i hate f.i.

 

[Justshootme84]

I'm more of a carb guy and not real familiar with EFI. I do know that most of the sensor plugs have connectors that fit in one specific location, and are slightly different from other plugs due to number of wires. Maybe someone will be able to help with a pic or two? Good luck!

 

[hotrodmanIII]

hey shoot me ,, i got it running ,, what i need to do ? to see if the 4x4 is working ?lock my hubs i know . but what to put it in 4low or 4 high , this is my first 4x4

the gear shift feel funny?

has

2H

4H

N

4L

ITS HARD TO FIND whats what?

theres a light on the dash say loww range

and on that says 4x4?

go here to see the to trucks i got , and which one i should keep and put the 408 in?

http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c389/hotrodmanIII

 

[Roadkill]

Hey Hotrodman, putting it in 4x4 is pretty easy.

As you said, lock the hubs first. Then just pull the lever back from 2H to 4H. You can do this while stopped or moving at "normal speeds" by normal I mean not more than say 40 or so MPH. (I'm not sure what the manual says is the actual max speed for shifting, but 40 or less will be safe) There will be some resistance when you pull the handle, but it should not be too difficult.

To shift into 4L, you must first bring the truck to a complete stop. Then shift the transmision into neutral. Now you can shift the Transfer case into 4L. To go back to 4H is the same process. The reason you must come to a stop and shift the transmision into neutral is that there is no clutch mechanism in the transfer case. If you are moving, you will hear/feel the gears grinding as they try to line themselves up.

Also, if you are on dry pavement, your truck will "bump and grind" as you turn right or left. This is because there is no differential in the T-case to compensate for different wheel speeds between the front and rear axles.

And, of course, Welcome to BroncoZone! >

Edit:

The "bump and grind" I mentioned is when you are in 4H or 4L.

 

[hotrodmanIII]

Hey Hotrodman, putting it in 4x4 is pretty easy.
As you said, lock the hubs first. Then just pull the lever back from 2H to 4H. You can do this while stopped or moving at "normal speeds" by normal I mean not more than say 40 or so MPH. (I'm not sure what the manual says is the actual max speed for shifting, but 40 or less will be safe) There will be some resistance when you pull the handle, but it should not be too difficult.

To shift into 4L, you must first bring the truck to a complete stop. Then shift the transmision into neutral. Now you can shift the Transfer case into 4L. To go back to 4H is the same process. The reason you must come to a stop and shift the transmision into neutral is that there is no clutch mechanism in the transfer case. If you are moving, you will hear/feel the gears grinding as they try to line themselves up.

Also, if you are on dry pavement, your truck will "bump and grind" as you turn right or left. This is because there is no differential in the T-case to compensate for different wheel speeds between the front and rear axles.

And, of course, Welcome to BroncoZone! >

Edit:

The "bump and grind" I mentioned is when you are in 4H or 4L.

thanks road **** , i just go tup from a spring time nap,, going to check it out after i get some vitales in me... i was wondering about the ft diff. what gears it had? i guess none/
if you change the rear gear do you have to do something with the front or not?

i m going to go broncoen on a little land behind the house it got a hill and a ditch..yawhoo!

 

[Roadkill]

The front diff will have a ratio the same or very close to the rear. 3.55:1 in the rear and 3.54:1 in the front was very common set up on Broncos. There were other options available, so the only way to know for sure is to get under the truck and check. If you change the ratio in the rear, you will have to change it in the front too. (because the t-case has no diff to compensate front to rear)

 

[hotrodmanIII]

The front diff will have a ratio the same or very close to the rear. 3.55:1 in the rear and 3.54:1 in the front was very common set up on Broncos. There were other options available, so the only way to know for sure is to get under the truck and check. If you change the ratio in the rear, you will have to change it in the front too. (because the t-case has no diff to compensate front to rear)

it took me 1 hour to hose it off yesterday....in my driveway! big mistake!

does your spare tire and tail gate rattle like the dickens? mine does it make me want to sell it!!!!!

 

[Roadkill]

Nope, I have no problems with the tailgate or tire carier. Sounds like something is loose or worn out. From your previous posts, sounds like you know your way around with a wrench so finding the rattle should be no problem. If something needs to be replaced, here are two places that have a lot of the little parts for tailgates and tire carriers:

LMC Truck

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard

 

[broncobob58]

it took me 1 hour to hose it off yesterday....in my driveway! big mistake!
does your spare tire and tail gate rattle like the dickens? mine does it make me want to sell it!!!!!

My tailgate rattles too,mine is caused by a broken torsion rod inside,(kind of sounds like an old school bus inside when you hit a bump)it also makes the tailgate heavy to open and close.Mine has been like that since I bought it almost two years ago.Soon I'll be putting my mint tailgate with a good torsion rod on and hopefully no more rattles.As far as the spare tire carrier mine only rattles if I don't sqeeze the handle and push the carrier all the way back and then lift up the handle slightly.