Newbie.

[broncobust]

Allright i allready posted today but this will be my last one for a while so get ready its a long one.First thank you for answering my earlier post.My 83 bronco 4x4 full size has a few things wrong and i have notta clue what they could be.I was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers as to how these are being caused and what ill need to fix.

1)Theres a really high pitch squeel that comes front the front end only once i hit 100km and stays there untill i slow down.

2)When its somewhat cold outside and i try to start it for a the first little bit it stalls out after it runs it idles fine.But as soon as you put it in gear and try to move it you have to pump the gas non stop or else it will stall and this is for a good 10-15 minutes of driving till it finally eases up and i can put constant pressure on the pedal. :huh:

3)The rear window will not come down using the switch im wondering how i can get it down manualy so i can put the tail gate down?

And just wondering if manual hubs are better then automatic.

 

[88pimpin]

1)Theres a really high pitched squeal that comes front the front end only once I hit 100km and stays there untill i slow down.
2)When its somewhat cold outside and i try to start it for a the first little bit it stalls out after it runs it idles fine.But as soon as you put it in gear and try to move it you have to pump the gas non stop or else it will stall and this is for a good 10-15 minutes of driving till it finally eases up and i can put constant pressure on the pedal. :huh:

3)The rear window will not come down using the switch im wondering how i can get it down manualy so i can put the tail gate down?

4)And just wondering if manual hubs are better then automatic.

1) Don't know. Only think I can think of squealing from the front is a belt.

2) Not quite sure. I had a bad air filter and once I cleaned it, it hasn't idled as bad. I had a K&N so I just used the recharger kit. I'd get a K&N if you don't have one.

3) Trace the wires back. I'm not sure where they come back, but if you can splice into the wires and connect the positive wire to a fused positive from wherever you can run it from and the negative to a ground, if it works there's something wrong with the wires, switch, or fuse. If it doesn't work, it's probably your window motor.

4) Some people have had their automatic hubs engage while they were driving down the highway, so manual hubs are considered better.

 

[Seabronc]

I'll comment on item 2 in your list. My truck did exactly the same thing, I mean exactly as you described. It wasn't totally solved untill I replaced the carb and did major work on the emissions system. The easy fix might be to change the automatic choke to a manual choke. You might also try adjusting the automatic choke.

However, you probably have a larger problem in the vacuum system. Since you used the term km, I assume you are not in the US so I'm not sure what emissions controls you might have on it. When I got my 83 it didn't have a single control, someone had removed them all :-& . That removed all the cold run controls like the heat riser, and preheat air from the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Then there is the matter of the Air inject system, evaporitive emissions, and EGR. Any one of these, with the exception of the evaporitive emissions, will give some sort of run problems untill the engine is fully warmed up.

Bla, Bla, Bla. In short it took a lot of restoration, tweaking, and patience to get it back to a start and run truck .

Good luck,

>-

 

[Wliebhard]

My '85 did the same thing before the conversion. Exactly the same thing. Let it warm up for 10-15 min before you drive it untill you can fix the problem. I think my electric choke was nonoperational and would not let the engine warm up properly. I rigged the carb (for 2 days as a test)so it would run when cold and got HORRIBLE gas mileage, that is why I tend to think it is the choke.

The squeal could be the Hub bearing, the brake rotor running against the caliper/pad, or a small, hairy gnome assigned to haunt you. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

For the rear window, take off the access panel, and you should see the motor with a yellow and red wire going to it. It works like this: When you apply a 12v current to one wire, and ground the other, the motor actuates in one direction, when you switch the power to the other wire and the ground the opposite ( flip flop how you had 'em connected) the the motor runs the opposite way. This will get it down, but not fix it, obviously. Lay-men's terms: That is how it works.

I re-wired my tailgate because I could not find a stock switch and did not want to buy a new one. I wired a three way toggle to switch the grounds, and then a seperate 3-way momentary to control the power (up or down). I can get you a schematic if you want; e-mail me at [email protected]

Finally, I hope this helps because I am by no means an ASE cert. technition, I just try to shadetree it along. >-

 

[Wliebhard]

Oh, yeah, ditto on what Sea Bronc said! PATIENCE is the key here emission control systems **** to sort out!

 

[Bradt]

I re-wired my tailgate because I could not find a stock switch and did not want to buy a new one. I wired a three way toggle to switch the grounds, and then a seperate 3-way momentary to control the power (up or down). I can get you a schematic if you want; e-mail me at [email protected], I hope this helps because I am by no means an ASE cert. technition, I just try to shadetree it along. >-

If you have it drawn out can you post it here? I know I'd like to see it, and I'm sure others would too.

brad